Just placing dividers into pan ?? No welds

[TerryEspo]

Hi All:

Yacking with my buddy last night we got to talking about dividers in a pan. Actually, I was talking, lol, he was listening and asking questions.

If you get a pretty good friction fit with a few dividers, would it be helpful ?

I know not as good as fully welded in place. Or is the idea a complete waste of time if not properly welded in place ??

Anybody know or has tried it?

Thanks.

Terry

[maple flats]

I don't know of anyone trying it, but others have commented on not sealing them completely against the pan. They get leakage or crossover (crossunder?) mixing. I don't see it as worth the time unless you can weld or solder the seam.

[feelthefever]

This is of no help with answering the question, but this seems like a good place to ask - What is the purpose of the dividers? I only do batch boils so I don't know how the dividers would help me.

[psparr]

I made my set of pans this winter and tried to solder the dividers in. Didn't work. So I shimmed the end against the end of the pan to hold them in place. The bottoms are no where near tight, especially in the middle of the pan. Boiled twice on it and had no problem with gradient.

[TerryEspo]

psparr,,,,that great news. I see no harm in trying that first. I called a local shop to get a quote and they said about $90.00. I had no intention of bring the pan in to them, just wanted to hear what it could cost.

I know I will have a better arch and pan next year so not going too crazy with this one this year, keeping it simple, fun and cheap !!

Thanks for the info.

Terry

[psparr]

Just remember to draw some off when you shut down and put it back in when you start back up.

[TerryEspo]

Maybe silly question, but as I draw off, wont the rest of the thinner sap just run into the section I am taking from?? Or, am I suppossed to close off the section temporaraly as I draw off ?

I guess I need a simply explanation how this all works. Batch is all I have ever done.

Thanks.

terry

[psparr]

You don't want to draw too much at a time. Depends on size of evaporator. I drew about a quart at a time. Sap will push syrup ahead. How it works you'll have to ask Dr. tim. After a draw, keep boiling until your at temp again, check with hydrometer if you have one, and draw again. 6768

[Ausable]

This is of no help with answering the question, but this seems like a good place to ask - What is the purpose of the dividers? I only do batch boils so I don't know how the dividers would help me.

feelthefever - Terry has had her question fairly well answered - So I'll attempt to answer Yours.... You know about Batch Boiling, I did it for years, Sap in a pan and boil and add and boil and add and when you run out of sap or get bored boil to near syrup and finish in another pan on the stove or turkey fryer. Ok - We will keep it very simple about flow through evaporators - No frills or flues or preheaters - just the basics. Picture a pan 2 ft wide and 6 ft long and in the center - side to side we weld in a divider - the back section near the stack we call the sap pan and the front section over the fire we call the syrup pan. Now - we divide somemore. In the Sap pan we add another divider lengthwise and weld in - now the sap pan has two sections 1 ft x 3 ft each. Up front in the syrup pan we could add two or three dividers giving us three or four sections. We will add two dividers lengthwise - giving us three sections in the syrup pan 8 inches wide and 3 ft long. Now for the other basics - holes about an inch to inch and a half are made in the dividers to connect the various sections. One in the sap pan divider near the stack to join the two sap sections. One at the center divider to join the last sap section with the first syrup section - etc. In the end - you have a serpentine effect where the sap is added to the first sap section and is drawn off in small amounts as near syrup from the last syrup section with the use of a draw off valve. When Starting - just like a batch pan - you flood the whoie evaporator with about two inches of sap and start boiling. As the level goes down you add more sap etc. In time you will notice the difference in the different sections of the evaporator - It will be sap at the first sap section and almost syrup near the drawoff valve in the last syrup section. Test with a syrup hydrometer in a test cup - and if there - draw some off - if not continue to boil. Now this is just bare - bones - basics to give you an idea about how a flow thru works - and they are more efficient - even a little home-made rig like mine. ---Hope I helped You some. -------Mike----

[Ausable]

Maybe silly question, but as I draw off, wont the rest of the thinner sap just run into the section I am taking from?? Or, am I suppossed to close off the section temporaraly as I draw off ?

I guess I need a simply explanation how this all works. Batch is all I have ever done.

Thanks.

Terry - My 2' x 5' flow thru is very basic. At the last syrup section at the draw off valve - when you have the big shiny bubbles and all the other indicators that you are near syrup - fill your test cup and check with syrup hydrometer - if there or at near syrup draw off a quart or more (depends on size of pan) and filter into your finishing pan or whatever step you do next. Now check again with hydrometer - if still there draw off somemore if not keep boiling and add sap at the start of your sap pan section. On the big rigs - they have a float valve that adds sap from the feed tank that keeps your level constant at 2 inches or whatever you set it at. On the other end they have an automatic drawoff valve that opens when near syrup and closes when not (I'm guessing it operates based on temperature ----- approx. 219F when syrup). LOL - On mine - I have a small valve at the end of my feed line which I run at a trickle when boiling and I have to pay attention to my evaporator level etc. ----mine is all manual and I have to be on the ball. But - it is faster then batch boiling - but - can't be ignored for long like a batch pan can. ----Hope I helped You. Remember - in s flow thru the sap is always boiling and changing as the sap/syrup
moves through the different sections --Mike---

terry

Whoops! I typed my reply between Your subject and you Signature and could not get my reply to post - hope this little add on helps. ---Mike---