Drop tube flu x 58

[HyeOnMaple]

It took me almost about three weeks from finding the pan to fixing leaks this weekend, but here is my new baby. :D
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The second pic is of some improv tools like the copper fitting (1" fem thread x 3/4 fem swt soldered to a 3/4 tube with a cap). I used this as my flaring tool, the extra length helped keep the drive straighter down the tube. Had I to do it over, I'd order the $17 1" hammer drive made by Ridgid. The "C" clamp was used to close the ends of the Type "L" tubing (thank God, only seven), the Hemmer was for the rest of the Type "M" copper. The 1" grinding wheel was to open the 1-1/8" holes just a touch (since pounding on the tubes made them a little pudgy at the top). And the 1/2" PVC tube is my cleaning rod. Scotch Brite slid through two slots cut with a band saw (use what you have) glued into a 1/2" FXF slip X thread fitting, to a 1/2" x 1/4" bushing, to a 1/4" air hose fitting (use what you have) that (just) fits inside my 1/2" chuck on my Ryobi cordless drill.

Had 9 leaks at the tips, 2 at the pan, NONE now. Teacher at the Tech school Welding class TIG'd the center of the pan for me (sweet).

Original weight of the pan 7 lbs. Add copper = 37 lbs (almost 40 ft) plus solder = total of 40 lbs (yeah, I used too much solder),

Tell me what you think.

[RileySugarbush]

Fantastic! Just wait until you see that boil.

Make sure you don't hit the tubes with wood. Maybe brace them together at 3/4 down from the pane with some copper strips or pipes, at least the front row.

Congratulations.

John

[vernon]

Nice job, it shoud rip.

[Waynehere]

Very nice job.... I have a similar setup with a 2x6 and love it. One thing I think you will still have to do though is build up the sides or come up with a splash shield as I had to do. Those tubes act like geysers and will shoot your sap right out of the pan. When I first did a test boil with water, my floor around the pan was all wet. But that is an acceptable problem you can overcome.... :)

Good luck..

[HyeOnMaple]

Thanx guys for looking:
John, I should be safe since the pan is going to be about 2' away from the actual firebox and resting atop some Roxul insulation.
Wayne, do you suppose if I cover it with corrogated plastic that would be sufficient, or should I try to raise up the sides (was hoping to be done with this pan). And if I'm not right over the fire, will that make a difference? If the answer is "raise up" what suggestions can you give?
Thanx,

[mountain man]

did you you use propane with silver solder?

[Waynehere]

6664

Mine is a 2x3 with dividers in the middle. I had a friend build a splash guard out of SS, and then it sits on the 2 dividers in the middle. It is angled so that when they pop it hits and is deflected back into the pan. Now I only get very little on the floor. I didn't want to make anything permanent along the sides so that I can remove the pan a lot easier. The weight added from the copper tubes is quite significant as you found out. Maybe you can make up something similar to sit inside your pan somehow? Might be quicker and easier then trying to build something on the sides? Maybe your shop guy that did your middle can make something up quick? Keep us posted how you make out.

[HyeOnMaple]

Hello Mountain Man, welcome to the family. You will find yourself welcomed and encouraged by the wonderful guys (occasional gals) that frequent this board.

Yes, I used propane (after failing miserably with my favored MAPP gas). Then I used Silva-Brite 100, a 1 lb roll of solder with silver content (FW Webb). Hope this helps.