Continuous draw (manual)--do you?

[maple marc]

Whenever I attend a seminar given by a Leader rep, they always say to strive for a continuous draw--even a small draw the size of a pencil. They say is makes the overall flow better. I have tried this on my 2x6 WSE and haven't had much luck. I sometimes think I am making syrup in the middle channel, as I get temperature surges sometimes at draw off. It just seems like it should be easier than it is. I open the valve at 7 and close when it starts to drop, but surges still happen.

Anybody striving for continuous draw?

Marc

[Germanmaples]

Yes I have had the same problem. I just keep a little trickle going to give it a push and I mean a litt. It seems to keeps it fresh. As far as a continous draw I think you have to run crazy low pan levels and high heat. To risky for me. We have used slab wood and that really increased our draw with a oil squirter to keep it kicking. We would squirt the oil through the gap in the front door, we could draw off alot. The only thing about maxing out is your pan will get ripples in it as we found out. I would rather be safe and steady than buying new pans for a couple quick gallons.

[Sunday Rock Maple]

We used to before we had the automatic draw off but we were constantly on the verge of a heart attack (running about 1.5" in the pan on a 5 by 14 King). We run about 2.5" now and finish in a 2 by 4 with propane and things are a lot more stable.

[Dave Y]

Gentlemen drawing continuosly is not that difficult. your float need to be working and you need to keep an eye on what is happening on you evaporator. You can run your pans at what ever depth you wish. When you begin to draw just crack your valve and continue to draw, if the temp begins to climb do not open the valve more, in stead take your scoop and scoop some dilute from the middle chamber and lay it in the syrup chamber. Do this till you reach you desired temp. preferably 7. If the temps fall back to 6 close the valve. if you practice this you will get good at long draws. this also helps keep the gradient you have on the evaporator. I have drawn syrup for 12hrs straight using this method. try it I think you will like the results.

[maple flats]

I also have used continuous draw since I attended a seminar given by Glen Goodrich several years ago. I had a 2x6 at the time and getting the right triclkle flow took a little time but I was able with a little practice to get draws of 30 minutes to sometimes over a hour before I had to shut it off when the temp fell for one reason or another. I since have used it on my 3x8 with even better results. I once drew for over 90 minutes continuous. I did find it even easier after getting my RO. When I finally need to shut it off is often related to distractions causing delays in firing or not watching the temp. well enough and seeing it at a few degrees too high, then I open the valve a little more and before I slow it again, the temp falls below 7 and I need to shut it off to regain the 7 degrees. Actually last year I drew at about 6.5 and sent it to my finisher pan, where I get it to perfect density, draw to my filter feed pot , mix FA and send it thru the filter press for canning or to fill a bulk drum or 5 gal container.

[maplecrest]

a few thing to make continuosly drawing easier. if wood fired never open door under draw pan side. fire only on other side. when fireing push fire under draw pan and fill. be sure to fill right up even to corner,save smaller pieces for that.and timing will play here to keep the draw going. then next thing is when you have syrup in center, start drawing and take scoop get sap from your flue or far pan and slowly pour it in back of syrup in center. then put a couple of drops of defoamer right at the draw corner,this will bring it around. will be light in density to start but will balance out.and maybe heavy. adjust draw valve watching themometer, and density cup. play with the float and pan depth. than mark the floats, easy to remember.the lower the sugar content the shallower you can run . the higher the sugar content the deeper you will want it to come around. fuel has alot to do with it, if oil or wood fire and the heat under draw pan. cross flow pans draw on the coldest part of the evaperator. leader, grimm ,small bro. pans draw at the hotest part of the evaporator and syrup has to make a 360 degree turn before leaving syrup pan. i locked myself in the sugar house with no interuptions for a few boils to get it to work.

[SeanD]

This is all excellent info for me. I always start out with the goal of small continuous draws, but the temp usually spikes and I panic and open it up. I have a couple of questions:

My 2x6 has one door. Can I still try this strategy of shifting the fire to the draw side and feeding on the other?

When do you first crack it open for the first time in a boil?

When you check density, do you open it up wide to fill the cup and then pour it back right at the draw?

Does a continuous draw improve the overall evaporation rate? That is, do you go through more sap in less time or is it intended to improve the quality of the syrup?

Thanks in advance,
Sean

[maple marc]

Some great ideas here, guys. Thanks! Please keep them coming. So many times I am forced to put a drop of defoamer near the draw-off valve to prevent the dreaded "dry valve" syndrome and to re-establish flow! I had not thought about using the scoop to move sap around in the syrup pan.

Thanks,
Marc

[maplecrest]

Do you change sides when you boil? If you boil on only one side choose the side of the hinges of door. So when you open door to feed move burning wood under finish pan feed fire on other side and fill in hole in upper corner under pan.have wood ready and sorted for fast fireing.or you will loose draw.put a drop or two of defoamer right at drawoff before opening door. Will hold syrup there and will not run back toward center pan.i watch the bubbles, they will tell you density, you can scoop sum and pour in cup or check as comming out of draw off. If way light pour back behind the syrup not in it.i usually crack open when close to syrup and let drizzle till syrup.then open to density. If too high open more till drops in density and adjust draw rate with thermometer. 218 ect.iboiled with wood for 12 seasons. I have boiled with oil since 1992.two sides to story 1 continuous draw will make for a dirty pan faster. You will see a flow line in pan when drained. The niter will build up on each side of flow channel.batch drawing tends to take all niter with it, not building up as much.dont be afraid to open right up and let drain good every hour or so.or niter or sugar sand will build up right at draw port.as for quality, does not get so hot density is consistent.and gives me time to do other things in sugar house watching themometer.tryed auto draw, but took off for this works better for me.

[maple creek]

We let it go over then draw trying to keep it about 219 220 then add raw sap to finish. Really speeds up finish time.

[sapman]

If you keep a continuous flow, are you using a finishing pan? I'm in favor of continuous flow, but use an auto-drawoff, trying to keep it opening every few seconds.