2x6 wse

[mapleleaf]

I was wondering if some members that have had or ran a wse evaporator could answer some questions for me. I purchased a 2x6 from leader this summer. They have been great about any questions that have risen as bricking and ect. Have test fired and everythig works as it should, but now would to ask someone familiar with running one some questions.
1 about how many gals needed to sweeten the pans
2 how do you use your defoamer and how often
3 how often do you feed & how full do you fill
4 how big are your draws and how often
5 any little tricks to switch syrup pan or emptying flue pan
Any other hint or info will be greatly appreciated.
Frank

[Tweegs]

Mine isn’t the WSE, but similar.

1 about how many gals needed to sweeten the pans

Mine takes about 30 gallons to fill, and probably near another 100 gallons get run through before I make a draw.

2 how do you use your defoamer and how often

On an as needed basis, but typically 2 drops per hour on the infeed side of the flue pan, and maybe a drop in the syrup pan when and where needed.

3 how often do you feed & how full do you fill

Mine is float controlled and set to maintain ¾ to 1” depth in the pans.

4 how big are your draws and how often

Depends on how well I’m paying attention. I shoot for just under a pint every 10 to 15 minutes, but it doesn’t always work out that way. Draw off too fast and you’ll start batching, maybe a quart and a half to 2 quarts every 40 minutes or so.

5 any little tricks to switch syrup pan or emptying flue pan

My flue pan has a drain, I’d be surprised if yours doesn’t. Slowly draw off 2 gallons at shut down, label the gallons #1 and #2. Switch sides, bring her up to a boil, add #2 back in, then #1.

Any other hint or info will be greatly appreciated.

Fill the firebox only half to ¾ full with forearm size wood every 10 to 15 minutes…even flame and temp.
I leave the clean-out grate on the firebox open 2 to 3”.
I switch draw off sides at every boil, and completely drain and clean the pans in the last half of the season to get rid of the niter build up.

[maple marc]

I have been running a WSE 2x6 for one season. Before that I had a WSE 2x4 for several seasons--I stretched it to make the 2x6 (traded the rear pan). I can't recall what it takes to flood it, but Tweegs may be close at 30 gallons. I know that last season I boiled off 70 gallons before my first draw. I usually boil off 30 gallons per hour. I fire every 8 or 9 minutes, depending on wood variety. Set an egg timer to help. Don't over-stuff the box. If you have to search for a spot for that last log, it's too full. You should use 3 drops of defoamer every time you fire (flue pan near box). If you do not use enough defoamer you will have problems in your syrup pan. I run 1.5" deep (top of the connector tubes). Experiment with this.

I admit that I still struggle sometimes with draws. I think the problem is syrup being made in the middle compartment. Draws are generally 1 quart. You should draw off a gallon every 100 minutes. If you run too shallow or with too much foam you may develop what I call "dry valve syndrome" with this boiler. You open the valve all the way and very little is coming out. That means it is time to add a drop of defoamer near the valve ASAP! Foam is a big enemy. Again, use plenty of defoamer in the rear pan, and try to build the fire over to the side of the draw.

This boiler does not have a flue pan drain. You of course have the option of rotating the front pan 180 degrees to change what compartment you draw from--you are still drawing from the same side. Important tips to help with this:

Depending on the amount of sugar sand in the sap, you may decide to rotate the front pan every boil. I find that I am better off doing at least a light cleaning of the front pan every boil. This means draining and removing the front pan--not so hard once you get on to it. Buy two rubber plugs that fit the pan exit holes. Place one plug into the exit hole of the rear pan. Then drain the front pan into a bucket (about 4 gallons). Remove the front pan and clean it. At this time you may want to remove the connector tunnel and clean it--sand builds up in there. The second plug helps to fill the front pan with water or acid for cleaning. While it is off, run a coat hanger wire through the pan gasket like you would skewer a shish-ka-bob. Let it extend a couple of inches on each side. This will help you keep the gasket in place and re-install it each time you remove the front pan. This will extend the life to one or two full seasons. Oh yes...it helps to place some aluminum foil over the gap between the pans to prevent splatter from making a mess of the pan gasket. Replace front pan, rotate if you like. Place sweet from bucket back into front pan. Remove plug and you are ready to boil again. I do not worry about cleaning the rear pan until the end of the season.

I have necked down my draw-off valve. This helps to draw off into a hydrometer.

I made 26 gallons of syrup for every cord of wood I burned--way more efficient that the old 2x4. I highly recommend a stack thermometer--the kind that has a stem stuck into a hole in the stack at about head height. I run about 1000 degrees. Much higher and you start getting too much mixing in this little unit. It's easy to run too hot with the right wood.

Buy a little hand pump or siphon at Harbor Freight to drain the rear pan at the end of the season.

Glad to offer any tips--I got a lot here. Good luck and please let us know how it goes. PM me if you like.

Marc

[maple flats]

1. It takes 3 hrs boiling time to sweeten the pans if on raw sap.
2. Use 2-3 drops defoamer at each fueling, placed where the cold sap enters the flue pan. Later in the season you may need 2 drops. I very rarely need to add defoamer in the syrup pan.
3. I feed the fire every 8-10 minutes, by using a timer. Fill 1 side at a time, wood split wrist size and fill to about 6-8" under pans, and fuel as fast as you can, an open door slows the boil. If you are asking about sap, I feed it continuously by float valve and run from 3/4-1" deep.
4. I run a continuous draw and have since I had a 2x6. When the temp is right, just start a tiny stream draw. If the tem rises, open the valve a little and vise versa.
5. I only clean my pan before start up if it was boiled since last cleaning. I do not change the pan as I only have 1 syrup pan and 1 flue pan. I do however reverse the flow every 2-3 hrs depending on how the pan is boiling.
Relax, you will quickly get to know your evaporator.

[stoweski]

i have a siphon so I can get most of the sap out of the flue pan before cleaning. Once mostly empty I clean the pan as best I can and then use a shopvac with a refrigerator crevice tool attachment to get everything out. Works great.
http://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Crevice-Tool-Vacuum-Hoses/dp/B0017PHQ6S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1359943922&sr=8-1&keywords=refrigerator+vacuum+attachment

Your other questions have been answered by others... my experience is similar to theirs though I've never tried the continuous draw trick. Sounds tempting.

[maple marc]

Dave and others--I would like to hear more about the continuous draw approach. Mabye should make this a new thread. I know that Leader says you should strive for this. However, I tried it once last season, and despite watching the thermometer, syrup came out way heavy. What are the advantages of this over batches? Is it more difficult on a small (2x6) evaporator than on a big one?

I would like to figure out a way to avoid tempurature surges: thermometer reads 7, you open the valve, start a flow and suddenly it's reading 9 and the flow is drying up--quick, add a drop of defoamer at the valve!!! I think this is caused by sugar-making away from the valve. I wish I could figure out how to avoid it.

[Flat Lander Sugaring]

pretty much what tweegs says but leader should have told you a few more things.
1. what tweegs said
2. Leader says every time you fire you put two drops x the width of you rig in float, I do three in float three in opposite side of the flue pan the float is feeding, I hardly ever put any in syrup pan.
3. what tweegs said
4. what tweegs said
5. what tweegs said

extra pointers:
what tweegs said

[stoweski]

pretty much what tweegs says but leader should have told you a few more things.

5. what tweegs said



So your WSE flue pan has a drain? Where is it located? When did they start putting them in? Mine doesn't have one.

[adk1]

interesting posts. chumlee i never heard of adding defoamer in the float box? I typically add it in the side of the partician that you recieve sap in. I cant recall ever adding any to the syrup pan as if you do it will draw sap in and mix in that area. I typically will add one drop each time or every other time I fire.

[Flat Lander Sugaring]

interesting posts. chumlee i never heard of adding defoamer in the float box? I typically add it in the side of the partician that you recieve sap in. I cant recall ever adding any to the syrup pan as if you do it will draw sap in and mix in that area. I typically will add one drop each time or every other time I fire.
yea just what Goodrich said in Verona, you squirt defoamer out in middle of syrup pan thats where you will start making syrup and wonder why you dont have any syrup by draw off. I actually cant remember when the last time I put defoamer in my syrup pan.

REVISION
4. fire your arch every 3 to 5 minutes alternating the side (tweegs might do his every 15) every ones rig is a little different and wood they use. when you fire the arch you add drops of defoamer like I said. Go pick up a egg timer use that to keep yourself on track. The more consistant you are the smoother your rig will run.

[wiam]

My experience: before I had my preheater hooked up I would put a drop in the floatbox after each fire. Sometimes the defoamer would solidify on top of the cold sap and just sit there. This is not a problem with preheater running.

[stoweski]

Marc, you using a hood or pre-heater of any kind? If so, got picts?
My next upgrade (besides an RO and filter press) is a hood/preheater. I'd really like to get one made locally - if not by myself - rather than spend $$$ on one. Not sure if it's feasible but I'll at least look into it so I can get the sap temp up a bit before entering the float box.

[maple marc]

No hood or pre-heater on my WSE, but that would be nice. Getting that cold sap up to temperature before the float box should make a big difference in boiling rate.

I think my next upgrade might be a water-jacket canner.

Marc

[Tweegs]

I really don’t use that much defoamer guys, never really had the need, or maybe I’m using more than I think, but I know I’m not in the habit of using it every time I fire.

It’s a one man show out there and I’m in constant motion from the time I light the fire until I shut it down. With a wet rag in one hand I’ll make a lap around the evaporator wiping down the exterior of the pans, checking inside the pans as I go, checking the temp, checking the float box, wiping as I go, drawing when I need. Then I make a lap around the shack wiping down tables, clean the hydrometer, clean the cup, check the filter, back to the evap. If the pans need a drop of defoamer, I add it, and at times I do need to put some in the syrup pan.

Now it’s just my opinion, and only an opinion, but when it comes to charging the firebox, alternating sides when charging seems to me would cause hot spots in the pan, and this, I think, would cause problems with syrup being made away from the draw off. I try to keep the fire even by charging one time with the logs all running north to south, the next time running east to west. This way it helps keep good air flow through the fire. I also stage the wood at the firebox door. I know that my evaporator will take about 8 logs every charge, I stage at least 10. I open the door, chuck in the wood, close the door, and before I get up, I orient the remaining log or two in the direction needed for the next charge. My door is seldom open more than 10 or 15 seconds.

I run my logs a little bigger than some folks do to keep from having to fire so often. It doesn’t seem to hurt me none with the evap rate and it helps smooth out my routine of prancing about the shack. No other reason than that.

[lakeview maple]

Tweegs ,I do the same ,I have my wood sitting in front of the arch waiting for the next time I fire ,which is around 8 minutes ,in between Im wiping down everything ,and maybe getting a cup of 6 hour old coffee if Im lucky ,lol.Im still a rookie at this stuff ,so I am checking the head tank level,the bulk tank level ,everythings level,and I wouldnt trade it for anything.Theres nothing like the smell of the steam coming off and the roar of a good boil,Amen.AL

[Flat Lander Sugaring]

I really don’t use that much defoamer guys, never really had the need, or maybe I’m using more than I think, but I know I’m not in the habit of using it every time I fire.

It’s a one man show out there and I’m in constant motion from the time I light the fire until I shut it down. With a wet rag in one hand I’ll make a lap around the evaporator wiping down the exterior of the pans, checking inside the pans as I go, checking the temp, checking the float box, wiping as I go, drawing when I need. Then I make a lap around the shack wiping down tables, clean the hydrometer, clean the cup, check the filter, back to the evap. If the pans need a drop of defoamer, I add it, and at times I do need to put some in the syrup pan.

Now it’s just my opinion, and only an opinion, but when it comes to charging the firebox, alternating sides when charging seems to me would cause hot spots in the pan, and this, I think, would cause problems with syrup being made away from the draw off. I try to keep the fire even by charging one time with the logs all running north to south, the next time running east to west. This way it helps keep good air flow through the fire. I also stage the wood at the firebox door. I know that my evaporator will take about 8 logs every charge, I stage at least 10. I open the door, chuck in the wood, close the door, and before I get up, I orient the remaining log or two in the direction needed for the next charge. My door is seldom open more than 10 or 15 seconds.

I run my logs a little bigger than some folks do to keep from having to fire so often. It doesn’t seem to hurt me none with the evap rate and it helps smooth out my routine of prancing about the shack. No other reason than that.

do you have a hood installed on rear pan yet tweegs? i see it says its on its way, or did you recieve it yet. You will find you will use more defoamer agent once installed. The reason I'm going to tell you happened to both me and my bro-inlaw.
we had what I would compare to is a vapor lock in the flue pan between the tubes that transfer sap into syrup pan. The foam got so bad it wouldnt allow the natural flow of sap to take place and we both were always messing around with our floats (to high, to low) back and forth we would go "I'm a poet and dont know it". Thats where leader told BIL to add 3 or so drops every time he fired. Problem went away.

[Tweegs]

My hood should have been finished a day or two ago, but Sugarbush didn’t know if it would make on the truck for delivery to their place this weekend, but next weekend for sure. Because of the late arrival (I ordered this thing back in September), I don’t know if I’ll get the preheater going this year.

I imagine it’s going to be tough seeing what’s happening in the flue pan with a hood on there, even more so once the preheater gets in the way. Yea, I can see going to a regiment of adding defoamer on a regular basis, just to be sure foam doesn’t gum up the works.