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View Full Version : Am i headed in the right direction?



harley2003rkc
01-28-2013, 02:23 PM
As of right now this is the direction Im heading in. I'm starting out with a 5' long 28" wide fuel oil drum that was donated to the project. Before I get carried away building the firebox, I thought I'd ask if I'm moving in the right direction or if I need a major redirect?

harley2003rkc
01-30-2013, 03:22 PM
Well I was hoping that someone could give me some advice on setting up the ramp to the flue. Maybe some actual photos will help.64996500

DonMcJr
01-30-2013, 04:16 PM
I think you can just use firebricks and build a wall.

Here's the directions for my Leader Half Pint Evaporator... Start on page 8 and it will show you the "wall" I am talking about...

https://www.leaderevaporator.com/pdf_files/Half-Pint-Evaporator.pdf

DonMcJr
01-30-2013, 04:24 PM
Here's for their 2 x 6 Woodfired Arch...

http://www.leaderevaporator.com/pdf_files/leader-wood-fired-arch-instructions.pdf

Don't just listen to me but I think you are on the right track... Looks like you make the arch then brick it with the thinner Bricks.

Someone else here should know more than me though...

psparr
01-30-2013, 05:39 PM
Here's a couple pics of mine. 65026503

harley2003rkc
01-30-2013, 05:43 PM
I think I have an idea of what the wall is supposed to look like. I just don't have any idea on how far down from the pan the wall should stop vs. how high I should run the flat piece that leads to the flue outlet. I actually started laying out the brink to check my measurements last night and picked up the remainder of the brick I think I need. I'm also wondering if my idea for the flue outlet is ok.65046505

backyard sugaring
01-30-2013, 06:41 PM
Harley, How big is your flue? calculate how much area the flue has and close the back of your ramp to that number figuring insulaton or brick. I have an oil tank evaporator, I built my ramp by bolting bed rails to the side of my tank and covering it with steel ( side of a washing machine). You look like you are doing just fine. My experiance is you will tinker with it and make it better every year. Good luck. Lee

ACollette
01-30-2013, 07:39 PM
Harley,

Have you done any research on your fire box grate arrangement? I am thinking that the rebar is going to get hot and sag. I just would hate to see you get too far into this without correcting this potential problem first. One successful option to the grate set up is to weld angle iron together with the V facing up. This way the angle fills with ash and protects the steel from the heat. I have burned in my homemade arch for 3 years this way, with no sag or failure. Like I said, I haven't seen a rig with the rebar grates, so you might be okay.

madtrapper
01-30-2013, 10:45 PM
I agree i have 1/4inch by 1x1 angle for my grates, nice and heavy. i built a evaporator out of a oil barrel as well. wish i had of bought the pan first and then built around that. oh well always room for tinkering, like im going to do tommorow !! have a look at my pictures i show the build process in like 30 pics or so. you can make yours better after seeing my set up

flying squirrel maple
01-31-2013, 08:15 AM
Not sure but your grate looks like number 4 rebar we built one out of number 8 or 1 inch rebar it sagged bad we' have to turn it over every day, pain in the arse. Just my 2cents.
Harley,

Have you done any research on your fire box grate arrangement? I am thinking that the rebar is going to get hot and sag. I just would hate to see you get too far into this without correcting this potential problem first. One successful option to the grate set up is to weld angle iron together with the V facing up. This way the angle fills with ash and protects the steel from the heat. I have burned in my homemade arch for 3 years this way, with no sag or failure. Like I said, I haven't seen a rig with the rebar grates, so you might be okay.

ericjeeper
01-31-2013, 10:03 AM
I have two oil drum arches. Neither of which uses grates. your air vent is above the grates anyhow. I Just shovel what little ashes remain out before firing it up the next day. Both of mine are forced draft. Just line the bottom with bricks and go on about it.

harley2003rkc
01-31-2013, 11:53 AM
Thanks guys. The rebar is what I had laying around, so unless I find some cheap angle iron, its what I'll have to put up with this year. I didn't weld it in so I can flip it if needs be. This project is being completed nearly entirely from scrap I have laying around. I just have too much money out this year having just bought more honey bee packages also, and I still need to build more bee hives before April.

garyp
02-02-2013, 10:34 PM
Looks good so far, If i were going to do mine again I would of done what you did with your top half barrel laying on its side and then would of ran a elbow (90) out the back and straight up. Than have room for a preheater pan were you have your flue now . just something to think about.

harley2003rkc
02-04-2013, 10:41 AM
Well this is what the flue ended up looking like before Ive completed all the welding. I also have the interior all tacked into place awaiting final welding. I cannabalized the remainder of the top from the tank to fabricate the interior, which is why theres a square hole where I cut out an 1 1/2" threaded port that I'll need to patch yet. I just ordered a full sheet of 20 gauge stainless steel that I'll pick up later today. I've never done much welding on anything that thin so I'll have to experiment to see if its easier to MIG weld with some small SS wire or TIG weld using the lift arc feature on my other welder since I don't have the foot pedal for it.65746575

maple flats
02-04-2013, 12:31 PM
Just for comparison, I have experimented with the ramp height and length. I now have the ramp start 7" below the pans and slope up to within 1/4" of the bottom of my flues (Mine is a raised flue pan) in a distance of 16". This seems to do best. However you do it you'll need a short chamber at the back for the heat (smoke?) to go out the slot you have to the stack.
Looks like you are doing a fine job.