View Full Version : Electric releaser check valve location
In the pic, does anyone think the check valve being above the releaser is going to be a problem? This is on the outlet side of the Goulds pump. Im worried that air will rise to that spot and cause a problem??
waysidemaple
01-23-2013, 08:43 PM
I talked to CDL about this yesterday. They told me to put the check valve as close to the pump as possible. Mine is 3" above the pump. Not sure why they want it that close.
Scott
Scott does your outlet line run vertically out of the top of your pump like mine?
OldManMaple
01-24-2013, 07:14 AM
This is how mine is set up. I like having the Brass swing check valve vertical. Yours is a spring check so it might not make a difference
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Buffalo Creek Sugar Camp
01-24-2013, 07:44 AM
The problem I see with the check valve vertical is, you can't fully drain the line without taking it apart or turning the pump upside down.
This is how mine is set up. I like having the Brass swing check valve vertical. Yours is a spring check so it might not make a difference
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Thank you how does this setup work for you?
OldManMaple
01-24-2013, 07:56 AM
The line is a 1" and drains from the high point (in the shack) to the tank and the rest is in a heated shack.
OldManMaple
01-24-2013, 08:08 AM
Thank you how does this setup work for you?
Works great, my dealer had it set up with the 1/2" coming of the top. It worked better this way but I cant remember why. With 26" pulling on the other side I think the check valve will work either way. As long as your line drains out to the tank. For a long run you might need a vacuum breaker to drain the line back to the tank. Keep a constant pitch
OldManMaple I am going to change the setup to look like yours, except I am going to use the spring check valve that I already have. Why the need to have the line drain to the tank? Because of possible freeze-up? My tank is 215 ft away and 18 ft higher in elevation than the releaser. Thats the reason I went with an electric releaser in the first place.
OldManMaple
01-25-2013, 07:02 AM
I was just thinking of freeze ups. If the tank line freezes up you will have to wait for it to thaw. If you can make it drain down as much as possible there will be less to thaw. You could go high at the pump and pitch it down hill from there. I also put a camlock and valve between the releaser and pump so if the power is out for any length of time I can run gravity to a truck tank but its down hill to the road for me.
Yeah I pretty much have all of that. I have the ability to drain the line when I shut down vac. Also most of the 215 feet is downhill as most of my rise is close to the releaser. Also have the camlocks so I can gravity feed into a tank at the releaser if needed. Thanks for the information there doesnt seem to be alot of it out there on electric releasers.
waysidemaple
01-25-2013, 07:04 PM
Hues- yes it does.
ejmaple
01-26-2013, 07:53 AM
Old Man Maple, i too am in the process of making a releaser. my question is what is the first T out of the pump for? is it for equilizing the vac pressure, tank to pump. do you happen to have any more pic's of your tank set up out side and inside.
thanks ed
OldManMaple
01-26-2013, 09:45 AM
Here's some pics. Don't bust me on my wiring. I tried to show the switch and float set up, if you run a 220v pump you use the pressure switch contacts as the switch. I think the pictures explain the equalizer line plumbing. I'll have to look and see if i can find some pump house pictures as I haven't set up the pump house for the season yet
ejmaple
01-26-2013, 11:12 AM
thanks for the pic's Old Man Maple, i've got a couple other questions if you don't mind. wondering the purpose of the check valve on the equilizing line, and i'am using an internal float switch ( like one on a sump pump ) in my tank. any pro's or con's to using this, that you know of.
OldManMaple
01-26-2013, 11:37 AM
You don't want the pump to recirculate back into the releaser. So you want the arrow on the check valve to point towards the pump. As long as you seal the switch wire where it passes through the wall of the releaser it should work.
The check valve on the equalizing line actually comes with the new releaser.
ejmaple
01-26-2013, 01:07 PM
thanks again this site rules!! one more question, could i plumb the tank side of the equilizer line, with a T off the vac line coming into the tank, rather than adding another hole in the tank?
OldManMaple
01-26-2013, 07:20 PM
Should work. On the store bought set up you have one less line to undo to open the lid
Heres a pic of how I ended up changing my setup to how Old Man Maple has his.
waysidemaple
01-27-2013, 07:55 PM
Quick question about the pump. What do you have to do to prime it at the beginning of the season? It's not self priming right?
sapman
01-27-2013, 11:48 PM
Heres a pic of how I ended up changing my setup to how Old Man Maple has his.
I was told to plumb the equalizer line coming off the top of the tee, instead of the side, like all the instructions say. Said it will have a hard time getting rid of the air otherwise, I think. But I never tried it the other way.
sapman
01-27-2013, 11:49 PM
Quick question about the pump. What do you have to do to prime it at the beginning of the season? It's not self priming right?
It should self prime, provided there is sap in the releaser, and higher than the pump. You just might have to bleed the air off the first time.
OldManMaple
01-28-2013, 05:43 AM
I was told to plumb the equalizer line coming off the top of the tee, instead of the side, like all the instructions say. Said it will have a hard time getting rid of the air otherwise, I think. But I never tried it the other way.
Never had a problem with mine, I switched mine around so the discharge goes up towards the ceiling and out the wall so its drains. Got rid of a bend in the pipe. Just keep your equalizer line as short as you can. Come to think of it, there's always some air in the line. Doesn't bother anything.
MilesTeg
01-29-2013, 08:50 AM
I have about the same setup but added one more T above the check valve on the discharge side of the pump. On this T the upside continues to the tank which is 250 ft away and around 25-50 ft higher than the pump. On the other leg of T I put in a ball valve to drain the pump line during a freeze. This is a must because if you dont drain this line you will have to wait at least a couple hours into a run to start the pumps. Not for this season but the next one I am installing another line so that if I forget to drain the pump line I can switch over to the other drained line.
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