Lazer level for flat land gravity tubing

[Starting Small]

My brother and I are going to be putting up our tubing in the next couple of days. As I mentioned in other posts we have very flat land to work with. I was wondering if anyone has used a lazer level to ensure a proper decline for gravity tubing. If so what degree drop is recommended? I was thinking 3% but I am not sure if that is enough. Also, (before I go out to buy one), can I set the lazer for a 3% drop? This is the one I was thinking of using, thanks!
-Dave

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-25ecodZ5yc1v/R-202258085/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=lazer+level&storeId=10051

[jmayerl]

Probably easier and cheaper to rent a transit. They are $20/day at our local true value.

[325abn]

I think forget about the transit, laser etc and just eyball it. Keep it simple and you will be ok and have the most fun.

[SDdave]

Starting Small...I don't think that lazer will work very good outdoors. If you do rent/borrow a transit just remember that up is down and down is up. I don't know how much length of an area or how open it is but would a string line and a line bubble help? Couple more options.

SDdave

[spencer11]

if you have an iphone, ipod or ipad there is an angle finder app that i think would work for finding the slope of a mainline

[Bruce L]

We have done quite a bit of ours with the laser level,keep in mind you cannot do it on bright sunny days,if you wait until dark the person holding the stick will have trouble reading,plus it is colder at night standing still waiting for a reading.Our mainline is very flat,I run the mainline at a fall of 1" every 10',which is the best I can do with our level ground.I prefer the transit,I think more accurate and you can do it all day long,just remember as stated,down is up and up is down,so if my reading at one stake were 17",my reading at the next stake would need to be 16" to have a 1" fall.Bruce from Leader told me this would work,most importantly the mainlines need to be tight,any sags and the sap will back up and no vacuum through.

[Tweegs]

I made a laser level by modifying one of these:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100057676/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=laser+level&storeId=10051

Rip the guts out of it. There is a lens that covers the laser which converts the laser dot to a line, remove it. There is a small hole at the rear of the base that will accept a small wood screw, this can be used to adjust the vertical aim of the laser. The laser sat atop a 4’ level, which sat atop a camera tripod. Use the bubble on the 4’ level to adjust for level.
The laser dot will project well 50~75’ even on a sunny day.

To use it you need to calibrate it. I used a CST/berger site level available at Home Depot or any sugaring supply house. Reference the laser to the sight level to confirm level over at least 50’.

Now, I used the laser because I originally set up my woods using the CST sight level and something didn’t look right. The laser confirmed the same levels established with the CST. Long story short, my CST was not adjusted properly and the laser was set to that, so both gave me incorrect measurements out in the bush.

Moral of the story?
Purchase the CST sight level for about $25. Adjust and use it per the instructions in this thread:
http://mapletrader.com/community/showthread.php?18344-CST-berger-sight-level-tips-please
And forget about the laser, it’s just more equipment to carry.

[Springfield Acer]

I am a firm believer in a self leveling laser especially when dealing with low pitch where you have little margin for error. I was fortunate enough to be able to borrow a PLS-3 from work. I pick my low end dump height, calculate the total rise available with the laser and then use it to mark each stake or tree that the line attaches to. If you know someone who a contractor/builder, you might be able to borrow. Like others, I prefer to do my grade reading at night. It is so much easier.

[jpros]

Tree create oxygen no need for all the BS

[maple flats]

Don't get that technical. A CST/Berger hand held site level is all many who install tubing for hire use. Maple dealers get $30 something, but order online or from your local "Ace Hardware". I buy mine from them and my last 3 I bought were $20 ea. Then read the directions and follow. For slight slopes you might try something like I did in one bush, where it is real flat. I made a wooden base to attach to my camera tripod and made it adjustable by using a bolt to turn for easy up and down, it was attached thru a blind nut in the wood. I no longer have it or I'd give it to you. Lacking the tripod idea, just brace yourself against a tree to stabilize yourself. On flat ground these tricks help.
For slope, I successfully collect from slopes as flat as 1% (1'/100' run). Both of my leases are not flat and I rarely even need the site level.
I do have 2 laser levels, an automatic leveling and a manual leveler, but I never used them for tubing. The automatic is for construction and the manual is for trenching since I can set an angle on it.
With slopes that flat try to keep the laterals at 5-7 taps max, absolutely none over 10, you will not get any natural vacuum. Run the mains at the 1% slope and run the laterals as steep as you can by tapping high at the last tree and run an even slope to the main. It is an extreme, but I even have to tap off a step ladder on some in my flat land at the outer end of the laterals and I even use an extension ladder on the 4 highest where the land drops off near the far end (not necessarily recommended).

[markct]

if you can find cheap or borrow a laser transit with the detector that goes on the stick and beeps you will find it very easy. I have a dewalt one i bought for building my house and have also used it for setting up mainlines. Its very handy to setup and walk along with a can of paint and mark trees at the right heigth for keeping pitch

[nymapleguy607]

Maple flats has it right, you can get a hand sight level for cheap online and it saves you alot of headaches wondering if you have drop. On flat ground its nearly impossible to do it by eye.

[wildlifewarrior]

Using a level and a kids laser should work too correct? I know it might not be bright enough like buying one from home depot but it would be cheap. I was thinking of taking and taping the laser to the top of the level. at the lowest side finding level, on the far tree, (about 100ft away) then going up 3 feet on that tree. This is how regular transit levels work right?

Thanks
Mike

[maple flats]

In cases where I use a site level, I stand at normal height and mark the tree by me, that will be where the line will run, then I walk a ways to a convenient tree and sight back to tree 1. I adjust the slope for what I want and mark the tree by me. I continue this working along every 50-75' to the end, marking trees as I go, by just sighting back to the previous marked tree until the entire route is marked. Then I chose tubing height in comparison to the marks. I either use a tape measure, or more often, cut/break a stick to make tubing height marks in relation to the first marks, usually they will be below by a few inches, maybe even a foot. Every tree gets the final height marked. Then I string the line. When I have help, I often just start the line and tighten it with side ties. After the line is up, I adjust by moving up or down with the side ties until the slope is right.