CST berger sight level tips please?

[Tapped Out]

I recently picked up a CST pocket sight level and to my surprise, it didn't come with any directions. There are five horizontal lines that run across, with the larger line in the middle. I'm guessing that the middle line would be intersecting the bubble and that would be level. I am not certain what the elevation marks on the top(or bottom) of the larger line represent.Possibly 2% and 4% pitch???
I want to use this level for mainline installs without using a 4' level to find pitch.
I even contacted CST. The representative sent some info., not nothing specific to this level.
Thanks for your help

[JoeJ]

Just checked the site level % slope yesterday. I measured out 100' and shot the level with a laser. Measured up 2' and the bubble was exactly in between the upper 2 lines. So the bubble in between the upper 2 lines is 2%. If you want 4%, the bubble has to be touching the top of the sight glass

[Tweegs]

Basically, each line above and below the center line on the level represents a 2% grade (first line is 2%, second is 4% etc.). Easiest to work backwards. Use flagging tape and put a mark where the lowest point of the tube will be. Walk out to the next convenient tree to put a marker (distance doesn’t matter) and sight back to your low point. Hold the sight level level and adjust your height position on that tree until your flagged low point lines up with your desired grade mark in the sight level (say the first line below center for 2%). Mark the tree. Next spot, same thing.

[nymapleguy607]

sent you a PM

[lastwoodsman]

Like everything once I was done using a sight level I had it figured out pretty well.
I marked trees where my mainline would go with horizontal lines 4 to 6 inches apart on the tree in floruescent orange paint every 50 to 100 yards. Then I could easily see with the level on the tree where the grade was. Then marking the correct orange marked line to remember where to keep the height of the line.
I hope this makes sense.
Woodsman

[Amber Gold]

Roger what Tweegs said. Before I got this, setting grade on mainline was a PITA, and grades can look deceiving. All I do is put a piece of flagging on the bottom end tree and look up to where I want the mainline to go to see if the grades will work. If I find a layout I like, I'll run the wire/mainline, anchor at the ends, then run side ties, sighting back as I go to set grade on it. Works slick and easy.

Also, make sure it's actually level. The first one I used was a friend's and it wasn't level. I leveled it then bought my own. The brand new one was way off as well. To level, all you do is put a mark on a door frame at eye level. Put the center of the level on that mark. Get another person, and sight across the room to another door frame. Hold the level level, and have the other person hold the end of a pencil against the doorframe where you're sighting 0% slope. Have them put a mark. Switch places. Put the level on their mark, and have them put the pencil on the original mark. If the level's level, the two points will match with the level at 0%, if not, the level's not level. Adjust if needed. This is an iterative process and takes a few times to get a level, level.

Good luck

[Jmsmithy]

If the level's level, the two points will match with the level at 0%, if not, the level's not level. Adjust if needed. This is an iterative process and takes a few times to get a level, level.


Say that 3 times fast :lol:

[markcasper]

What a coincidence this topic sprung up....i have been using one the past few weeks, never thought of it being "unlevel", so i checked it and sure enough it was off 3%. I already checked and flagged a bush and am hoping that what happened recently was the cause of it going out.

The other day I went to pick it up from the table and the lense with lines was MISSING, low and behold it showed up in my pants pocket. The wife went to superglue it back on and at the same time fingerprinted the heck out of it on the inside, she took the eye piece off, (which now falls out easily) and attempted to clean it by going through the eye hole. I am hoping that is when it got out of adjustment. Luckily I have no mainline up yet, but will have to recheck the woods. So went to the hardware store and got a tiny torx to reposition the bubble.

Thanks for bringing this post up, it caused me to find a problem prior to having an even bigger one.

[Tweegs]

What a coincidence this topic sprung up....i

Aye,
I’ll agree with that. Set up my woods this year with a poor mans transit (PMT) which consisted of a modified laser line level, a 4’ carpenters level, and a camera tripod (hey, c’mon now, it worked (right up to the point I made a 250’ run dead level across the entire length)). Rechecked my work on that 250’ with the sight level never even considering that it might be off; need to check that tonight.

On real shallow grades I’ve taken to pumping water through the run to check it out before putting the end cap on, if the sight level were off, it would explain a few things. Further, since I used the sight level to set up and verify the PMT, it might explain a whole bunch more.

[Amber Gold]

Jm...pretty funny. As I was writing it out, I realized how many times I said level, but you need a level, level, to make things level...

[Tapped Out]

nymapleguy607- tried sending a pm, but box full.

Thanks guys.
If I'm figuring this out correctly, the bubble has to be intersected by the center line to be level. If the bubble is cenered on the 1st. stadia line above ( or below) the center line, it would be a 2% grade. a 4% grade would be on the top (or bottom) stadia line? Correct me if I'm wrong.

[Joust7.1]

This is a very helpful description of setting grade for tubing. I also just received a CST Berger Pocket Sight Level and was trying to figure out how best to use it. The instructions that came with it were quite limited. Thank you!


Basically, each line above and below the center line on the level represents a 2% grade (first line is 2%, second is 4% etc.). Easiest to work backwards. Use flagging tape and put a mark where the lowest point of the tube will be. Walk out to the next convenient tree to put a marker (distance doesn’t matter) and sight back to your low point. Hold the sight level level and adjust your height position on that tree until your flagged low point lines up with your desired grade mark in the sight level (say the first line below center for 2%). Mark the tree. Next spot, same thing.