View Full Version : Hood Lift System
Amber Gold
01-09-2013, 11:05 AM
I'm looking to build a lift system to hoist my steam hood when I need to clean the flue pan. Surprisingly, I didn't find any threads on this topic, so thought I'd start one.
First idea is a Racor lift (http://www.garage-organization.com/Product.aspx?ProductId=102499&f=gb). The downside is it's expensive and a fixed length, but I think this could be corrected by cutting the shaft in the middle, and bolt on a pipe extension. The benefit is the crank's operated from the floor.
Second idea is a homebuilt version of this (http://www.amazon.com/Racor-PBH-1R-Ceiling-Mounted-Bike-Lift/dp/B00006JBL3). This is cheap, but only rated for 50 lbs, which isn't enough. I'm thinking a boat winch, stainless cable, and pulleys in the same configuration would work well.
Third idea is this (http://www.amazon.com/Capacity-Lifetime-Warranty-RAD-Sportz/dp/B001EUL2DO/ref=pd_cp_hi_1/187-9406386-9400764) and it's my preferred solution. Rated for 100 lbs, which should be enough. Flexibility in setup, and one rope to operate each pulley, so you can lift the hood evenly.
Thoughts, and what else have others done?
Maplewalnut
01-09-2013, 12:09 PM
Josh-
I like #3.... looks simple priced right and one rope controls it all
Springfield Acer
01-09-2013, 12:16 PM
Josh;
This may be expensive if you cannot get your hands on used or left over parts, but I put hook connections on all four hood corners and strung 1/8" cable up through overhead pad mounted pulleys that I got from Lowes supported from Unistrut. The cables then go horizontal running parallel to the evap and I crimp connect the two from each side together. Those two cables then go to a set of two pulleys and a shaft from a garage door torsion set up less the spring. I used one of those gear drive tensioners at the end of the shaft to turn the shaft/raise the hood by turning the drive screw with a socket in my battery drill. It works very well. To use the gear drive I cot off the aluminum threaded tube with the flange and then drilled and tapped two set screw holes in the remaining hub to lock it to the shaft. I had all the hardware brand new left over form a door repair and the cable from a winter pool cover (coated steel). The only thing I bought were the pulleys at about $4.00 each and the cable crimps. I have enough overhead clearance that I can clear the pan and preheater. Good liuck!!
ennismaple
01-09-2013, 01:39 PM
The Kayak lift should work. We use a 1,000lb rated ATV winch ($50) and connected it to cables similar to what Springfield Acer described above. I've seen the same done with cables attached to a boat winch.
Amber Gold
01-10-2013, 10:16 AM
Thanks for the info. Any pics of these pulley/cable setups? I would need to buy all parts/pieces.
I've seen cable/pulley setups in other sugarhouses, but never paid much attention to them.
Tweegs
01-10-2013, 10:55 AM
The only thing I would be worried about with the Kayak lift is that the back end of it is going to be within a foot or so of your stack, which may degrade the line over time (maybe a short amount of time). I’ll make an assumption that the lines won’t be attached to the hood while you’re running, therefore maybe a small heat shield between the stack and the end of the lift to protect the line? (actually, I'm making a couple of assumptions).
Thanks for the inspiration though, I’m adding a hood this year and was wondering how I was going to pull off a lift. This seems like a right nice solution.
Springfield Acer
01-14-2013, 08:42 PM
Amber Gold;
Attached are the pix of my lift system where you can make out the four cables and four pulleys all tied to the garage door hardware and the pulley mounted on the strut. I hope this helps.6310631163126313
WoodButcher
01-20-2013, 10:11 PM
garage door thing is a bit too much for my smaller setup .
in regards to the kayak lift , how would you route the main line that runs between the pulleys so it doesnt interfere with your steam stacks??
maple flats
01-21-2013, 07:04 AM
I use a boat winch mounted on one wall. From each corner of the hood I connect a 1/8" SS cable. It runs up to a ceiling mounted pulley. All 4, are then routed by small pulleys to a common point. The winch is connected at that point. I have done this for about 8 yrs. I can't however get a picture, since it is now unhooked and in need of redesigning because I have a different hood this year. I will be connecting it back up in a few days, likely later this week. To raise the hood I just turn the winch. My winch is the cheapest one offered by Harbor Freight but any cheap one will work. Hoods re not heavy, just bulky. I'd guess the hoods on my 3x8, which are bolted together, are under 60# total.
upsmapleman
01-21-2013, 07:26 AM
I use a boat winch to lift my steamaway, 1 on each end with pulley on rafters. If you go this route make sure you get a winch that has a brake both ways. I got all mine from northern tool. Want a cheap fix use a couple of come alongs with some cable the same way.
Amber Gold
01-30-2013, 11:42 AM
I went with the kayak lift...simple and cheap...$25 on Amazon so I couldn't beat it. I mounted it last weekend and it works reasonably well. The hood goes up easily, and there's a brake system on the pulleys to keep the hood from crashing back down. Although, getting it back down's a bit tricky because of the brake.
I was looking at how close the ropes needed to be to the stack and thought the same thing. I'm going to disconnect it from the hood when I don't need it and pull the hooks all the way up.
My steam stacks come right off, so they're out of the way when I'm pulling this up. The downside I just realized, and it may not matter, but the steam stacks will be pumping all the steam on to the ropes. Since this doesn't get used often, I may take the few minutes to remove the rope completely...it only takes a couple of minutes to re-string it.
I've used a hand crank winch from the local discount tool store. I used two and hooked one to each end of the hood. I used a small piece of chain to run from one corner to the other and hitched the hook from the winch cable in the center. Did this for each end. The hand winch has a lock so you can hole it at any position or height you want. Works well and cost about $75.
maple flats
01-30-2013, 07:32 PM
Don't remove it, you can lift the hood at a moments notice if the need arises.
WoodButcher
02-26-2013, 09:48 AM
well i got my pulley system done. i used 4 separate 110lb 1 1/4" pulleys directly above each corner of the steam hood. i then used 2 eye hooks to guide the rear pulley wires towards the winch. that worked better than installing another pair of pulleys up front as they kept binding.
be sure to account for pulley deflection when using the plumb bob to find your 4 spots on your rafters directly above your hood corners ... mine was about 3/4" closer to the winch from center.
anyways, figured i would post a pic.... just in case you guys are like me and pics help to figure things out.
7030
Tweegs
02-26-2013, 11:51 AM
anyways, figured i would post a pic.... just in case you guys are like me and pics help to figure things out.
Don’t really want to highjack or sidetrack the thread, just a quick question:
Noticed your steam stacks run up into or stop just short of the cupola. How’s that working out for you?
I’ve got mine set-up the same way, but have yet to fire the rig up.
Any dos or don’ts?
WoodButcher
02-26-2013, 12:00 PM
I have not boiled yet with the new stack set up so I am in the same place as you. I am sure we will be fine since most people end their stacks at the roof line or slightly above. If not I have more stack
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