Rapi-Tube vs Pipe/wire

[PerryFamily]

This may have been discussed, honestly didnt look.

Has anyone compared the price per foot of rapi-tube as compared to traditional pipe and wire?

It looks like the obvious savings are in the labor, but I am sure the material is more money.
But working alone, it may be worth it.

Any info is appreciated.

Merry Christmas

[spencer11]

just use normal mainline, you dont need rapi-tube. i set up 2 mainlines with out wire this year and it didnt take long and cost less than if i did it with wire, and its a lot less work, look on my facbook page, there are lots of pics of it. i used the blue lamb mainline from bascoms, but i know people that have used leaders blue mainline, and black 160psi pipe

[whalems]

spencer, your facebook link dosent seem to work.

[PerryFamily]

I am not asking how or why to use the different material. Just looking for a cost comparison.

[spencer11]

wireless(maybe with the exception of rapi-tube dont know that that price is) is a little cheaper and easier to put up

whalems, ill try to fix it, i had the same problem on sbi

[Thad Blaisdell]

Call and get a price on rapid tube, then price their system of tie backs, I personally will continue to use the wire and 125 psi pipe. At 15.2 cents a foot for 3/4, wire is 2.5 cents a foot, Tensioner is $5.50 and anchor bolts art 2.50 each. So for 500 feet, roughly $100. I would say this is way cheaper than Rapid tube.

[spencer11]

i wouldnt use the side tie stuff they sell, just get some really light gauge wire

[PerryFamily]

Thad this is the info I was looking for. My only thought with rapitube is the labor and time savings working alone. I guess if the large producers still use pipe and wire its just fine for me. Thanks merry Christmas.

[heus]

I actually am interested in using their plastic side tie material. Mostly due to its visibility. Ive already run into wire side ties several times because they are hard to see.

[whalems]

I actually am interested in using their plastic side tie material. Mostly due to its visibility. Ive already run into wire side ties several times because they are hard to see.

I put a piece of scrap tubing on some of my side ties to make them more visable.

[wiam]

I actually am interested in using their plastic side tie material. Mostly due to its visibility. Ive already run into wire side ties several times because they are hard to see.

If I have a "path" where this will be a problem I hang surveyors tape on the side tie.

[spencer11]

i put orange flaggin on mine so i can see them

[lpakiz]

The problem with the flagging tape is it only lasts a year or so and then falls off and makes a mess on the ground... I used some rapi-tube strapping for this same reason and so far I like it. As suggested, scrap tubing would work too.

[heus]

I just think that flagging tape all over the woods looks hideous. Its already hard for me to stomach the look of my maple lines everywhere. I know many on here see a system of tubing as beautiful, but I personally think it looks bad for the 46 weeks that it is not in use.

[spencer11]

i like the look of tubing all over the place, when people drive up they ask what it is and then usually end up buying syrup, so it helps me sell some!

[markcasper]

This does not pertain to the topic, but can anyone inform me which is the BEST way to run mainlines. I went to a Leader seminar a week ago @ a nearby dealer and the rep. there was telling of laying mainlines out going across the slope of the hill with any wet/dry's being as steep as possible and the 5/16 laterals also as steep as possible. I had a professional installer out who was not Leader and he said to do pretty much the opposite, that being to run mainlines straight up and down the hill. I certainly didn't question this gentlemans judgement, but am confused on how there can be two different 'rights' while they are completely opposite. The installer basically implied that leader wants to sell more mainline tubing than is necessary.

I am not impressed with Leaders manifold system and would seem to be a reason for failure. Unfortunately I could not stay at the seminar to hear about the reasons for pvc manifolds. The installer I had out thought the same. I'm just looking for others input as I need to get at things asap.

[Middleton Maples]

I never liked the idea of side tying the main line. I feel even if u mark it i'd still close-line myself every now and then. Depending on your woods, the amount of wire you use for side ties can equal the length of your mainline. If thats the case just use pipe and wire, its gotta be faster to put up and maintenance is just a turn of a wrench. If you want to save money don't use hook bolts to hold the ratchet. Just cut a pice of wire and wrap it around the tree and put your ratchet through it (put some tubing through the wire as well to protect the tree). That way there is no bolt in a tree.

[ToadHill]

Mark,

Think of it this way. Would you rather have your laterals going up and down the hill with maximum slope creating maximum vacuum or would you prefer that they go across the slope with less pitch? To me it's a simple question to answer, I would rather run my laterals up and down the slope. It that's the case then your mainlines would have to go across the slope and into the wet/dry lines that would have to be going up and down. The other advantage of this system is that you will have less turbulence in the mainlines which will transfer vacuum better. Lastly, regardless of which way you run the lines you should use about the same amount of tubing and mainline to do a bush. By the way, Leader isn't the only one doing it this way, pretty much all of the other companies and all of the best installers are doing it this way also. As for the manifolds there are advantages and disadvantages to the different ways of doing it. A lot of folks are going to the whip style and really seem to like it.

Hope this helps,

Randy

[maple flats]

I always run my mains across the slope with about 2% grade. Then the laterals run as steep as terrain allows. My wet dry was designed by Leader, but I installed it, and it is also at about 2%. Maybe in a perfect layout the wet dry might be steeper but I fail to see the need. You don't want turbulance in the sap and a steep wet dry will have turbulance.

[ToadHill]

Flats,

I don't think turbulence in the wet line matters all that much since the vacuum is being transferred to the mainlines through the dry line, which normally shouldn't have any sap in it to cause turbulence. If the wet/dry lines run perpendicular to the mainlines and up/down the slope then they should be whatever the slope of your bush is. I'm thinking the steeper the better since that will help to get the sap out of the bush faster. Also, they recommend that the mainlines be between 2-6% to avoid turbulence since the vacuum is being transferred through the air space in the mainline and any turbulence tends to cause the pipe to fill with sap and block the air flow/vacuum. So turbulence in the mainlines is bad, but in the wet line it doesn't really matter all that much. Does that make sense or is there a reason that this logic is wrong?

[maple flats]

Randy,
If the wet line is full you are right. However, the wet line will only be full on the best of days. We pray that will be common but in reality it is not very common at all.

[Mark]

This does not pertain to the topic, but can anyone inform me which is the BEST way to run mainlines. I went to a Leader seminar a week ago @ a nearby dealer and the rep. there was telling of laying mainlines out going across the slope of the hill with any wet/dry's being as steep as possible and the 5/16 laterals also as steep as possible. I had a professional installer out who was not Leader and he said to do pretty much the opposite, that being to run mainlines straight up and down the hill. I certainly didn't question this gentlemans judgement, but am confused on how there can be two different 'rights' while they are completely opposite. The installer basically implied that leader wants to sell more mainline tubing than is necessary.

I am not impressed with Leaders manifold system and would seem to be a reason for failure. Unfortunately I could not stay at the seminar to hear about the reasons for pvc manifolds. The installer I had out thought the same. I'm just looking for others input as I need to get at things asap.
How much of a slope do you have? I have some areas with not much slope and have to go down hill to have some slope on the mainline. If it was steep I would angle across the hill.

[Thad Blaisdell]

If your wet line is full that is a hell of a problem, I can tell you it is a problem I dream of everyday. It takes a lot and I mean a lot of trees to even fill a 3/4 inch wet line.

[ToadHill]

Why does it only matter if the wet line is full or not? I don't understand.

[maple flats]

If the wet line is full the turbulance issue is not a problem, but then there is a very small window between a full wet line and a full wet + sap flow in the dry line. Anytime you have a mix of sap and air, the turbulance hurts the sap, mainly from heating it up in addition to mixing in the micro organisims ever present in the tubing after the very first run.

[mapleack]

I think Thad was being facetious saying that a full wet line was a hell of problem, meaning it was a problem he'd like to have. Turbulence is bad in a mainline, shouldn't matter in a wet line. A full wet line will actually have better sap quality because sap stays cooler in a full line, there's no room for air / gas heated by the sun shining on the pipe. Yes you don't want sap in the dry line every day, but if it's installed properly a little once in a while won't matter.

[Thad Blaisdell]

As a general rule your wet line will never be full. The biggest problem going is that people are overthinking a few things. For example a mainline, worrying about turbulance, a mainline 3/4" with 250 taps. On a really big day (24hrs) it will (might) run 500 gallons of sap. Lets break that down, that is roughly 21 gallons per hour, that is only .34 gal per min. If that is more than a stream about the size of a pencil I would be very surprised. Now you have to remember this is a huge day. A regular day would be half this but probably in less time. The amount of turbulance caused by a stream this size is not anything I am staying awake at night to think about. If the stream is any bigger you are going to have other things to worry about, such as how to take care of it all, because it is going to be one of those days you will always talk about.

Just put up the mainlines, keep the sizing right, amount of taps per line as close to right as possible, if it goes steep because of terrain, oh well, and if it has more taps than it should because there is no other way, oh well. The only time you are really going to be affected will be those days that are extreme anyway.

May all your pipes be full of sap and every tank be full.

[PATheron]

Thad- I dont worry about the turbulence either for the reason you say. I actually run my maines up and down the hill usually just so if they go out of sag their at least still going down hill and I dont think it hurts me any. Its probly not right but its how I roll. Each of the mains have hardly anything in them unless their crazy overloaded. I usually run a wetdry across the slope and the mains up and down the hill. If you have dry I dont see how turbulence is any issue. Although people smarter than me say it is so it probly is I just dont see how. Theron

[Butcher]

My wet lines are always full. Might have something to do with the fact that they are basically. Level. Flat land sucks.

[Thad Blaisdell]

My wet lines are always full. Might have something to do with the fact that they are basically. Level. Flat land sucks.

With this scenario, you should oversize your pipes for this reason.

[Brent]

two comments.

1) I love the Rapid side-tie straps. good visibility, easy and fast to re-adjust, you can easily connect
short pieces to make a longer one and got to be 1/4 of the time tie doing wire wraps.
when a tree falls on your line, the Rapid ties give first, saving your main line. Not so likely to spring
and poke your eye out like wire.

2) as it was explained to me the biggest benefit of running lines across the slope rather than up and down is
- all the laterals go up hill, no laterals go down hill. this means that walking the line down hill of the mainline
is totally un-obstructed, you're not constantly ducking under laterals.

[farmall h]

Now when we refer to turbulence in the wet line are we realizing it as "backing -up"? ie: receiving large charges of sap to the releaser then a large charge of air...then more sap...? The cause is from having too steep of a mainline...such as I do. :)

[wiam]

Now when we refer to turbulence in the wet line are we realizing it as "backing -up"? ie: receiving large charges of sap to the releaser then a large charge of air...then more sap...? The cause is from having too steep of a mainline...such as I do. :)

Should not matter if dry line is working properly.

[markcasper]

How much of a slope do you have? I have some areas with not much slope and have to go down hill to have some slope on the mainline. If it was steep I would angle across the hill.

I have been gone, have not had a chance.....The steep parts are 30-40%. The installer that visited my place basically said that the vacuum for the lateral mains can be monitored from the ends which would all be on top of the hill and alot easier to walk regularly. He implied there is no need to walk along every 5/16" where the loop enters the lateral main, rather that the vacuum for each specific lateral main be monitored at the end with a simple vacuum gauge. If your down 2" or more on any specific end lateral main main, then that is the one to focus on if that makes any sense. He said that turbulence is not a factor unless your lateral main is way out maxed on the number of taps, he said if thats the case then there should be another lateral main in the first place.

The thing I don't like about running the lateral mains straight up and down is that now you make the 5/16" LESS than straight up and down and that I don't think is good. And the Leader rep couldn't stress this enough in saying that you need to get that sap out of those lateral 5'16" asap even if theres only one tap on it. The leader guy also said if you put one bend in a 5'16" you just lost 75-80% carrying ability out of that line. The thing I like about running across the slope is there will be much less in the way of "y'ing" in to the big conducter line. I am just going with a single 1 1/4" from releaser about 500 feet in, (no taps in this 500 feet) then there has to be a y in order to get all those on the west side of this hill, after the y I will begin to break down to 1'' and 3/4'' where applicable. There is only about 350 taps max on this section. So i guess it boils down to 1) do i run straight up and down and buy way more 1 1/4 fittings to y into, or do i 2) run more mains across the slope and figure a bit more mainline instead of 5/16"?

The leader guy also said in a nutshell that stainless fittings that the competition sells are a waste of money and time and even told a story of a sugarmaker in vt that removed all of his ss mainline fittings and went with leaders pvc. He said upon questioning that Leader has not come out with a ss fitting simply b/c of cost, he said there are other things the money should be going for that would get you way more benefit. He did say that if they can ever get a way to have a ss fitting that is cost effective that they would do it, but rather it simply isn't cost-effective at this time.

One other question I swear i have seen pictures of lateral mainlines being y'ed in to a conducter mains going the wrong way. In other words....the sap coming out of the say 1'' main enters the 1 1/4'' and going "against the current". Now logic would say that there is going to be a trainwreck at this y and talk about turbulence, or am i missing something? (If I choose to run the lateral mains across the slope, the slope and horseshoe design of this hill is such where it would actually be better to enter the 1 1/4" going backwards.) Again, logic is telling me otherwise.

[Mark]

"even told a story of a sugarmaker in vt that removed all of his ss mainline fittings and went with leaders pvc"

That does not sound true, why would he take them out?
I only use stainless fittings. The plastic y's were breaking for me and I had tubing slip off the straight connectors. Went to all stainless and never had a problem.
After looking for a leak in the middle of the season when you are totally exhausted and finding a broken plastic fitting I swore I would never use one again. They are more expensive but what about the loss in production?

[GeneralStark]

I think whether or not you use stainless fittings is a personal decision and depends upon your scale and overall business plan. It may not make sense for large wholesale producers, but may make sense for smaller retail producers. It will depend on many factors. That said, I switched to all stainless fittings on wet lines this year for a couple reasons. One, the cost seemed resonable for my situation, and I like the idea of never having to replace those fittings and they will be reused for the rest of my sugaring life. They also have the same id as mainline pipe and will not cause a restriction or create a dam where funk can more easily build up leading to quicker contamination of sap in the mainline. A higher quality product is key for me. They also will not leak, and for high vacuum seem to be the best option.

[Thad Blaisdell]

Wow a story about leader saying something was too expensive. That is one for the books, all they need to do is look in their own catalog and they can find many overpriced items. They are great at customer service though, guess that is what you are ultimately paying for.

[farmall h]

wiam...for got to add that I do not have a dry line....yet.:cool:

[IPL Technical Support]

Perryfamily,

Two things are sure with the Rapi-Tube: 1- It is much more easier to install and repair. 2- It is not as cheap as the regular mainline.

I hope that this Excel sheet will answer your question regarding price comparaison: http://i1323.photobucket.com/albums/u590/Versaprofiles/RAPI-TUBEvsREGULARMAINLINE_zps43003288.png

Let me know if you have any questions!

IPL Technical Support

[Thad Blaisdell]

Now I would have to argue slightly with the prices you have there,

Black Pipe 1" can be bought for $106 per 500'

1000' --- ------ $212
Anchors 2x5.00 ----- $10
12. g wire 100/4000' --- $25
Tension Grip --- ----- --- $15
Wire ties 1000/14.95 ---- $10 ----- One bundle will do 1500 feet
Fence Wire ---- ---- --- $5 ----- used for tie backs and to hitch both ends
End plug ---- ---- ---- $2
Clamp ----- ---- ---- $1
-
So far this is $280 or .28 cents per foot.

Now using your installation costs of $200 or .20 per foot.

That is only .48 cents per foot using black pipe. Vs .85 cents. The cost is almost Half. Sorry not convinced on the "its a good deal"

[markcasper]

$50 an hour for labor is a bit steep either method.

[wiam]

$50 an hour for labor is a bit steep either method.

I would not be surprised if the "pros" get close to that, but I doubt it would take them 24hrs to put up 1000' of mainline on wire.

[maple flats]

I won't argue the prices (I do see labor @ $50/hr as higher than we pay hired help, even with the hidden costs like workman's comp, and other costs). But I really like the simplicity of installing with no support wire. It saves lots of time and as long as it is tight enough and side tied to hold elevation often enough, the sap flows better. Maybe I never mastered tie wires, but when I used support wire and the tie wires the mains had a small dip between every wire tie and I used to tie every 12-15" and I also pulled tight on each end. I don't get this with the no support wire method. If a sag developes, I just tighten a side tie or add one. Quick and easy.

[Thad Blaisdell]

I would not be surprised if the "pros" get close to that, but I doubt it would take them 24hrs to put up 1000' of mainline on wire.

That was for 6000' they changed to that in the middle.

[Thad Blaisdell]

I won't argue the prices (I do see labor @ $50/hr as higher than we pay hired help, even with the hidden costs like workman's comp, and other costs). But I really like the simplicity of installing with no support wire. It saves lots of time and as long as it is tight enough and side tied to hold elevation often enough, the sap flows better. Maybe I never mastered tie wires, but when I used support wire and the tie wires the mains had a small dip between every wire tie and I used to tie every 12-15" and I also pulled tight on each end. I don't get this with the no support wire method. If a sag developes, I just tighten a side tie or add one. Quick and easy.


You are not pulling pipe tight enough. Use a rachet strap, tighten, come back the next day and everything will be relaxed tighten again. You will easily take another foot or more out. then you will not have the dips in the line.

Personally, I prefer the way I do it with wire, I have very few tiebacks at all. I would have to bet that I dont have one tie back for every 1000 feet of mainline. But as said before to each his own, as long as you make good syrup you are doing something right.

[lew]

Thad,

What is your method of hanging wire? I use tensioners and tie backs, but the tie backs are very numerous.

[markcasper]

You are not pulling pipe tight enough. Use a rachet strap, tighten, come back the next day and everything will be relaxed tighten again. You will easily take another foot or more out. then you will not have the dips in the line.
.

I am assuming you are talking about ratcheting JUST the pipe before you wire tie and NOT the mainline wire?

[Thad Blaisdell]

Thad,

What is your method of hanging wire? I use tensioners and tie backs, but the tie backs are very numerous.

Lew,

I run the wire as straight as possible, using trees as I go, once run I connect directly to an anchor bolt on the far end. On the conductor end I run it into a wire tensioner and tighten, not to tight, just good and snug, then pull out pipe, as I go I move the wire up/down on trees to where I want. Hang pipe, tighten wire (banjo string tight) tighten pipe. In warm weather you can go back in an hour and everything is relaxed and tighten again. Cold weather just do it the next day. Everything is nice and tight and ready to continue. If you dont get it tight to start then it will never be right.

[Thad Blaisdell]

I am assuming you are talking about ratcheting JUST the pipe before you wire tie and NOT the mainline wire?

I was answering the question about pipe, but before I ever wire tie, I will always check and see if I can tighten the wire another crank or two. Get them tight the first time because once you put in the saddles there is no going back and tightening again.

[markcasper]

ThaD, what is your method of joining two strands of wire together? what about when you tie off your end of line wire, how do you secure that?
What is wrong with putting wire through a few pieces of pipe and wrapping around end tree?

i have had anchor bolts come loose and its not pretty.

[Thad Blaisdell]

I do a square knot. Anchor bolts need to be in a hardwood tree, not softwood. Nothing wrong with pipe and wire around end tree, just not what I prefer.

[wiam]

Mine are all "around the tree". I wish I had gone with anchor bolts. In theory the wire around the tree should be loosened every few years and move slightly up/down to prevent growing into the tree. Has not happened yet.:cry: You know how the priority list works.

[heus]

I made the mistake of using cheap anchor bolts on one end of my mainline. I ratcheted it down and the hook bent all the way straight. I now have wire wrapped around the end trees inside a section of mainline tubing.

[markcasper]

You all know that it says in the leader catalog that we are supossed to let off the tension of the mainlines at the end of each season, does anyone ever do this? or is it just me that doesn't do it.

[Thad Blaisdell]

I buy my anchor bolts from Glenn Goodrich, but have seen ones just like them that the telephone company uses.

[spencer11]

i got mine at TSC and there almost a half an thick(they were like $2), screwed into a big red oak, so i dont think mine will pull out or bend

[IPL Technical Support]

Hello Mr. Blaisdell,

Our price comparaison was done with Blue 1" LDPE pipe which is the closest competitor to Rapi-Tube.
Is your Black 1" Pipe had a deal on it? Is it HDPE or LDPE?
You will also find Rapi-Tube at lower prices these days. We just put listed prices here.

The "good deal" is on the time it will make you save to use, repair or simply live with it. We have sold millions feet so far and from what we've heard during maple shows, once you start using Rapi-Tube it is really hard to go back with wires. It is even more true when you have 3% of slope and more on your maple farm. What we see the most is "hybrid installations" using regular mainline on the flat parts and Rapi-Tube on the steep portions.

They are also a lot of producers that are expanding and buying a 500-footer of Rapi-Tube to try it. It gives a good feeling of what it could be for the whole installation.

Thanks for the feedback!
Happy New Year!
IPL Technical Support



Now I would have to argue slightly with the prices you have there,

Black Pipe 1" can be bought for $106 per 500'

1000' --- ------ $212
Anchors 2x5.00 ----- $10
12. g wire 100/4000' --- $25
Tension Grip --- ----- --- $15
Wire ties 1000/14.95 ---- $10 ----- One bundle will do 1500 feet
Fence Wire ---- ---- --- $5 ----- used for tie backs and to hitch both ends
End plug ---- ---- ---- $2
Clamp ----- ---- ---- $1
-
So far this is $280 or .28 cents per foot.

Now using your installation costs of $200 or .20 per foot.

That is only .48 cents per foot using black pipe. Vs .85 cents. The cost is almost Half. Sorry not convinced on the "its a good deal"

[Thad Blaisdell]

IPL

First let me start by saying I believe you are making a great product that fills a definite need for some producers. But economically it does not work for me. The black pipe I use is standard waterline sold by Goodrich Maple and that is their regular price. When all figured in it costs me 28 cents plus my labor to run it. As you state it costs 78 cents to run your pipe. So for 1000 feet of pipe I am saving $500. Now that is a considerable difference in costs. Now I know for a fact that I can run by myself more than 1000 feet of wire, pipe, and wire tie it in less than a day. But it is hard for me to make $500 working out anywhere in a day. I just dont see the savings. Now I know that your comparisons are to other blue pipe, but as I dont use blue pipe I have to compare it to what I use.

Thank you
Thad

[OldManMaple]

FYI 1" 100 psi Oil Creek black pipe is .19 @ Appalachian Supply
3/4 is .13

[Flatlander]

This is my first comment on this site. Just joined last week.

I am debating on putting up the rapid tubing on my neighbors ground that he normally grazes cattle on. Currently I just run 5/16 tubing for everything and take it down each spring so the cattle don't eat it as well as the squirrels!

Is anyone using the rapid tubing where they have to put it up and take down each season? What is the best way you found to do this? I have thought about using unions at the Y's to make it easier to coil back up on a drum.

Appreciate your thoughts.

[IPL Technical Support]

Thanks for the feedback Mr. Blaisdell!

We'll make sure to update our comparaison table with the prices you guys provided us. We'll try to determine how many months or years it would take to see the profit of using Rapi-Tube.


IPL

First let me start by saying I believe you are making a great product that fills a definite need for some producers. But economically it does not work for me. The black pipe I use is standard waterline sold by Goodrich Maple and that is their regular price. When all figured in it costs me 28 cents plus my labor to run it. As you state it costs 78 cents to run your pipe. So for 1000 feet of pipe I am saving $500. Now that is a considerable difference in costs. Now I know for a fact that I can run by myself more than 1000 feet of wire, pipe, and wire tie it in less than a day. But it is hard for me to make $500 working out anywhere in a day. I just dont see the savings. Now I know that your comparisons are to other blue pipe, but as I dont use blue pipe I have to compare it to what I use.

Thank you
Thad

[IPL Technical Support]

Hello Flatlander,

We are returning back from a maple show in Verona, NY and I have talked with some producers who are in the same position as you. Quoting them: "Rapi-Tube was the system we were dreaming of!"

I think you should give a call to your nearest CDL Dealer and ask for prices!

Regards,
IPL Technical Support


This is my first comment on this site. Just joined last week.

I am debating on putting up the rapid tubing on my neighbors ground that he normally grazes cattle on. Currently I just run 5/16 tubing for everything and take it down each spring so the cattle don't eat it as well as the squirrels!

Is anyone using the rapid tubing where they have to put it up and take down each season? What is the best way you found to do this? I have thought about using unions at the Y's to make it easier to coil back up on a drum.

Appreciate your thoughts.

[nwoods57]

I'm using black pipe this year, can anyone tell me how much pitch i need to have the sap run through it. I'm depending on gravity not using any pumps.

[ennismaple]

On gravity I wouldn't go flatter than 2% (2ft fall in 100ft). We do vacuum mainlines at 1% (or flatter sometimes) but we use a transit and rod to make sure it's falling and many mainline supports / tiebacks to get the sags out.

[nwoods57]

I have to run the main line about 5oo ft. that means i would have to start about 10 ft off the ground. Does that seem possible?

[unc23win]

I have to run the main line about 5oo ft. that means I would have to start about 10 ft off the ground. Does that seem possible?

You would start at your collection tank whatever height that is and go up 2 feet per hundred feet of line. You have to take the elevation of the ground into consideration if the ground rises at all then that is included in the rise. If the ground is completely flat no rise you would want it up 10' if your using 2% however if that the case you probably would go with less slope as 10' is high although some do it.

[mapleack]

You can do 1% even with gravity, if you have enough tie backs to keep sags out of the pipe. It helps to have a const. leve / transit to check, and also helps to have translucent maple pipe so you can actually see sap backed up if you have a low spot. If you dont have enough trees for tie backs, use steel t posts every 30 feet or so as tie back anchors. Don't try hanging the mainline from them like fence, that'll cause high spots, drive them in 6 ft back from the main then pull it towards the post with a tie back. If you start with a snug line then add tiebacks like this you can make low grade work.

[nwoods57]

Thanks guys for your info .