Wet/Dry leak checking

[sapmaple]

I'm setting up a new woods this year with a wet/dry system, using the loop method to tie into the wet/dry
Would you guys suggest putting a valve on both lines going into the side main lines for leak checking or just the one from the wet or neither? Or what method works best for you leak checking on a wet/ dry system.
Do you use vac gauges on each line or is there a way to just look and listen to detect leaks Thanks

[Jason Gagne]

Just what I do.
I add a 16" long piece of clear 1" vacuum tubing to the main line after the dry line ties into the main line (before the first lateral line) and no valves. This piece of clear tubing allows us to check the main line by making a sag in the line, the sag then fills with sap and you can visually see if you have air moving through the line and how much (how big is the leak). After we check the line it important to remove the sag in the clear tubing by tieing it back on grade. If you need a pic let me know.

[Thad Blaisdell]

If you want to wash your mainlines you will need to put shutoffs where you come off the wet line and the dry line. If washing is not a factor for you what you need to do is loop the dry line down to the mainline with a "T" then on the mainline side you will have a shutoff valve, then a stainless "T" with a vacuum gauge. This will allow you to check the vacuum in the line easily.

[gmcooper]

Shut offs come in real handy when trying to find leaks. Anytime you can isolate a section you can save time finding a leak or at least eliminate a section.

[sapmaple]

Jason
I would love to see a pic of your clear pipe method, sounds similar to the little loop we make for each 5/16 tubing that enters the main line.
No I don't plan on washing the tubing ( this is a big change for me , have always done it) this past spring I washed a section of 800 taps and must have used water from my water softner and it think it was recharging and got salt in the water.
I had to replace 500 of the drops and quite a bit of line (NOT FUN)

I'm using 30P for main line tubing so couldn't I see the sap in the pipe and if shut a valve for a few seconds then open if there was and air leak if would spurt in line when opening valve ????

[Thad Blaisdell]

sure you could but for a total of roughly $15 you would know your vacuum levels and it would help to find the smaller leaks. Dont be cheap go the right way the first time and make your life that much easier.

[Jason Gagne]

6038
The Pic is one of our typical connections connecting the main line to a wet/dry line. You can see in the Pic that there is a clear piece of 1" tubing installed after the y fitting (I've also used tee's as a sub.)
Its important that when you check for leaks you create a sag in the 1"clear tubing then when you have finished place the line back on grade. This lets us detect the smallest leaks with a simple design.

Jason

This pic was taken at home because I had the parts in the mule ready to be installed on new main line and it was just easier to bring the unit in the house and take a pic.