My New 2x6 A&A Toy [Archive]

Springfield Acer

11-13-2012, 07:53 PM

I bought a new 2x6 A&A evaporator this spring and have been remodeling the shed out back to house it.
I sheeted and painted the walls and got the roof flashings in.
Then I set the arch, installed the OFA headers, lined, and bricked.
I got the chimney flue installed including a cable operated stack topper.
Now I've got the pans clean and set in place to continue with flues and a cable hood lifting set up.
It seemed like I had soooo much time in May.
Now if I can get the pictures to upload.60286027602960306031

heus

11-13-2012, 08:30 PM

You are going to run more than 70 taps right? Looks great.

Springfield Acer

11-14-2012, 10:43 PM

I tapped out all my sugar maples last year at 70. I have cleaned out another section of reds that I can add another 125 to 150 taps. I'm planning on working on that as soon as the new evap is ready.
Vacuum would be nice but probably not this year.

Sunday Rock Maple

11-15-2012, 05:15 AM

Very well done --- it'll be a happy time when you take the first draw off!

Gary R

11-15-2012, 07:05 AM

Randy,

It looks real nice. See, you didn't need any help on the bricks;) When's the test boil? Time is closing in on us. Hopefully the rest will come together fast.

Springfield Acer

11-19-2012, 07:45 PM

I've been thinking about that test boils a lot lately. I should get some work done through the holidays and with a little luck get all the stacks and this year's version of a head tank done. Then it will be blowers, trim and wiring. I hope to boil by mid December. If not, I'm hurting for getting tubing run!:o

gmcooper

11-19-2012, 10:51 PM

Nice evaporator! Maybe it is the angle of the photos but the evaporator looks awfully close to the wall on one side.

maple flats

11-20-2012, 06:10 AM

You might want the cover the header from the heat. Use refractory cement. Only leave the nozzles exposed. The heat WILL be intense.

Springfield Acer

11-20-2012, 05:29 PM

You might want the cover the header from the heat. Use refractory cement. Only leave the nozzles exposed. The heat WILL be intense.

I've seen pictures of fireboxes with what I assume is what you are describing. Apparently the refractory cement will stick pretty well to the adjacent fire brick/pipe and withstand the occasional hit from fire wood.
Is there a certain type of refractory cement to ask for?
Is there any special things to know regarding application and surface prep?
I would prefer that the headers not warp all over the place so I'm all ears.