View Full Version : cracked tap holes from last season
team40
08-06-2012, 08:46 PM
i was out looking at my maples today and i see some of my tap holes from last season
are cracked the only thing i can think of is too small of a drill bit? any advise would be helpful
thank you
Thompson's Tree Farm
08-06-2012, 09:02 PM
spouts were pounded in too hard
driske
08-06-2012, 09:40 PM
2nd that motion; Overdriven spiles. What was the temperature range when the trees were tapped?
team40
08-06-2012, 10:40 PM
the temp was about 20-35 or so how far should i put in the tap? is it better to use a rubber mallet or a regular hammer
ClarkFarmMapleSyrup
08-07-2012, 07:10 AM
I have a tapping hammer and it works nicely for the plastic taps I use. Heres a little saying I use to help me,"TAP, TAP, TUNK." This meens that tap until the sound changes, like from a tapping to a tunking sound. The taps should NEVER be driven in all the way so that the angle part of the plastic tap is touching the tree. the tap should only need a few hits to seat properly, and the hits are only small ones at that.
We want to keep our trees healty as possible, and besides, if you over tap it and split the bark, youll have a leaker and will loose alot of sap and infect the tree easier.
team40
08-07-2012, 09:30 AM
ok well thank you what is a tapping hammer i am new and where do you get one of the so i dont kill my trees? and thank you everyone for the info
ClarkFarmMapleSyrup
08-07-2012, 09:59 AM
Most any maple website/store sells them. They have a wooden or more fancier and loger lasting aluminium handle, and a hard plastic hammer/mallet. The plastic is harder than a rubber mallet, but not as hard as a metal carpenters hammer. I think this is the perfect tool to use for tapping taps, and it is very light.
http://www.equipementsderabliere.elapierre.com/produits_en.asp?id_categorie=352&id_groupeproduit=181&page=1
You can still use a regular hammer, and probably should if your using buckets, but I like the one I have because it works and it is light.
This link is to a Lapierre hammer, and it is probably expensive, but look around and you can get a wooden handled one cheap. Mine was $12 I think at a local dealers store.
gmcooper
08-10-2012, 06:49 PM
I use my claw hammer I use everyday in construction. I don't think it matters what type you use as long as you don't over drive thim. Tap, tap, tap, tunk is about right. And be gentle, I had a guy help me for a very short time, He looked like he was trying to drive the spile all the way through the tree in about 2 swings with a hammer. He got the first one which I could hear but not see, the second one he only got in because I couldn't run over and take his hammer away in time.
Some of those trees with the split bark may be visible for many years before they heal over. It will be a good reminder of what not to do.
team40
08-10-2012, 06:57 PM
that makes sence this year i will know what not to do thank you for that i have learned alot from the site
maple flats
08-10-2012, 09:09 PM
I use a 7" pair of lineman's pliers. I tap using the flat side of the jaw. Good weight and I use the pliers to twist side tie wire if needed to tighten the main lines.
ennismaple
08-13-2012, 05:24 PM
I use a 7" pair of lineman's pliers. I tap using the flat side of the jaw. Good weight and I use the pliers to twist side tie wire if needed to tighten the main lines.
They work too - but can be tough on the knuckles if you're not careful! There's a pair of linesman's pliers within arms reach of me at all times during sugaring season because of their versatility.
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