bender releaser help

[morningstarfarm]

have a bender releaser i bought a while back...am having alot of problems getting it to work and i am not sure if i am missing parts or something..I have a major vac leak from the top..if anyone has pics of the assembly of the top i would greatly appreciate it..
thanks, chris

[Dennis H.]

There is will always be a vac leak at the top on a Bender releaser. if there is no vac leak there will be too much vac "grab" of the float rod when it is in the up position and will not reset itself once the glass jar is empty.
Now I am not sure what your idea of a major leak is but yes when compared to a true maple sap releaser it will appear to be a big leak but when in fact is just normal operation of the Bender.

As parts goes. at the top there will be some sort of cap that covers the top of the float rod and what also the threaded vac fitting tightens down against. The top cap can come in several styles. The most common that I have seen will be a flat black plastic one that covers the majority of the SS top cover. There is another style that is a gray plastic that is maybe only 1 1/2" round and 3/4" tall. They do the same function just made different.
You will need to plug the SS inlet thing that sticks out the side of the Top cover. I used one of those rubber slip on feet covers for chairs, stools and tables. I just had to find the right size to fit.
There will also be a rubber gasket that goes between the glass jar and the SS top cap.

Other than that I can't think of anything else that is needed at the top of the Bender.

Depending on when level of vac you will be running you may have to add weight to the float rod to help reset after dumping. I found that I added 2 SS nuts above the weight that was already there when I was running about 22" of vac.

[farmall h]

Morningstar go into the archives by typing "bender" or go directly to Caseysugarshack youtube videos "bender sap releaser videos" and you will see them fully assembled and working. Some of the videos are of the larger jar variety and some as the smaller version. Basically they have the same parts. Good luck.

[morningstarfarm]

Hey all...finally got back to this **** releaser...this one has the black cap...problem is that I can't get it to hold any vacuum...pump is pulling 25"...gaskets are in...hole at top is plugged...drain has check valve on it...but serious whistling at the cap and it won't hold any vac...help please...thanks, chris...

[Joust7.1]

I just recently got mine to work but I had to revert to the original broken or cracked parts as my new "replacement" parts didn't quite match the original. The parts that I had trouble with were the black plastic cap and the white vacuum elbow. The interface with the rod tip didn't quite match up the way the should. Once I put some vacuum tape over the cracks that I had, it worked beautifully. Check out the few pictures I put on the thread: bender bouncing rod and float. I have all my parts inside right now and can easily send you or post a specific picture if you want/need. Just let me know.

P.S. I was also getting quite a bit of vacuum leak at the top until I started using the originals. I heard that their was supposed to be quite a leak but never working with these or any other releaser before, I didn't know what level any leak should be. Yes their should be a leak but for someone that hasn't experienced, it becomes hard to describe how much.

[farmall h]

Joust7.1 your float is bouncing because you have too much weight on top of the float...if that is your recent post on YouTube. The single cylinder shaped weight is all that is needed. Run your vacuum no more than 18". 15" if you must.

[farmall h]

Morningstarfarm. Chris, part with the Bender and go out and purchase a double releaser or larger ......the benders are only good for 300 taps max. If you plan for over 3000 taps you need to plan NOW!

[morningstarfarm]

Lol this little releaser was bought for my sons school taps...wanted it because it was glass and the kids can see it working...they have 35 taps on their line...now if I can get the darn thing working...

[morningstarfarm]

As to the air leak...I understand there will always be q minor leak there..but I can't get this thing to hold any pressure...bb2 pump is holding at 25 but the releaser won't pressurize...

[lpakiz]

Chris, Make sure the little 1/2 inch diameter black cone shaped rubber piece is installed correctly. It should seat on the top of the cover and allow the jar to achieve vacuum. It is captured on the float rod under the brass head. When the float is down because the jar is empty, it seals. When the float raises the rod, this raises up off its seat as part of the venting/draining operation. Let me know if you need pics.

[morningstarfarm]

it is on top...as far as i can tell its all put together properly...only new thought i had was how hard do you crank the top down? I had it hand tight...i am hoping it is something stupid i am doing....

[lpakiz]

Not all that tight. If you have the OEM plastic inlet fitting, you can get it plenty tight by hand. Try to determine where the air is getting in. Maybe soap suds or could you submerge the whole apparatus in a laundry sink or pail to see where it is drawing air in? Check the interface between the nose of the fitting and the contact area on top of your little black (gray) spacer puck. Like everyone says, there might be a small leak normally, but should not be so much your pump can not keep up.

[morningstarfarm]

the inlet may be the problem then..the inlet is metal with a hole in the scenter that is about 3/16-1/4"...where can we get parts for these?

[Joust7.1]

Joust7.1 your float is bouncing because you have too much weight on top of the float...if that is your recent post on YouTube. The single cylinder shaped weight is all that is needed. Run your vacuum no more than 18". 15" if you must.

Farmall,
Mine is working now and not bouncing. It had to do with the vacuum inlet and the interface with the float rod. They never made contact with each other when using the replacement parts that I purchased separately. The weights aren't original weights. They are a combination of sockets that I used to experiment with the right weight. I think 60-64 grams as suggested by someone early on in my troubleshooting stage. I am using stainless nuts to equal the same amount now.

[farmall h]

Joust7.1, Great to hear all is working good!:)

[Joust7.1]

Chris,

Did you get it working yet? I can't recommend anywhere to get parts as I don't think the replacement parts that I received match the original. That's where my issues stemmed. When I modified the originals to patch up the cracks, breaks, etc. it worked great. Maybe someone else knows where you can get the "correct" parts.
John


the inlet may be the problem then..the inlet is metal with a hole in the scenter that is about 3/16-1/4"...where can we get parts for these?

[nace]

On the vac inlet that tightens down on the plastic " puck ",I took a rubber grommet and cut off one side so that I could insert it into the puck and have a washer for the threaded fitting.

[WESTMAPLES]

I saw that video on you tube if you use the rinse port on the top hat it works better and dumps faster with one check valve on the bottom, instead of the double check valve and such on the bottom. and as for the weight i doubled it up for running 25 inches of vac but you need to put one on top of the float and the other one above the top clip on the center shaft. it will cycle fine, with no bs and replacement parts can be bought from hamby dairy online great site

[Mike's Sugar Shack]

If you hooked your vacuum to the side what did you do with the top connection? The reason i ask is that my top piece that goes into the little gray puck piece is broke.

[WESTMAPLES]

no the vac port is the threaded post on top only and on the side of the stainless cap theres a nipple that sticks out, its a rinse port by design. most people plug it, because originally everything came in/out the bottom glass port. my releasers pull the sap in the side nipple ( rinse port), fills , then its releases vacuum from inside the jar when full, and the check valve on the bottom releases the sap, and resets. on the incoming line to the releaser i put a check valve to prevent backflow when dumping. hamby dairy online has the (puck) part you need check them out, ive bought all my bender maintainace parts so far good luck

[Mike's Sugar Shack]

I have the puck thing i need to try and find the fitting that goes into the puck thing.

[Joust7.1]

Would you mind posting or pm me the link to this youtube video. I have a couple benders that I always get a ton of gurgling when pulling sap in from the bottom. I'm interested to see what this setup looks like. Thanks. P.S. if anyone has pictures of their bender setups, I would love to see some layouts.
I saw that video on you tube if you use the rinse port on the top hat it works better and dumps faster with one check valve on the bottom, instead of the double check valve and such on the bottom. and as for the weight i doubled it up for running 25 inches of vac but you need to put one on top of the float and the other one above the top clip on the center shaft. it will cycle fine, with no bs and replacement parts can be bought from hamby dairy online great site