Plastic tanks for pick-up trucks questions

[Bucket Head]

I have a round, 450gal. plastic truck tank (the type with the cut-outs for the wheel wells) that has a drain fitting problem. Its broke, but beyond that I don't like the fact that its a couple of inches up from the bottom and it does'nt drain completely. I would like a drain on the bottom, which would be better for sap. I could mount the tank on a pallet-like platform to allow for a bottom drain. Has anyone here ever modified a tank drain? If so, how'd you do it? There are bolt-on, flanged, bottom mounting drains availiable for tanks, or I could weld up a stainless one, but it would require getting into the tank to bolt it on. Has anyone cut a manhole-like opening in the top of one of these, for getting in to make a repair and/or cleaning purposes? Do you think an 18 or 20" hole cut in the top at the center would weaken the tank? I've cut bigger openings in lots of cage tanks for proper cleaning, but the cage itself supports the tank regardless of opening size. Any thoughts on this idea? Yeah, do it? Don't do it? Whats everybody thinking on this tank situation?

Thank's,
Steve

[Bucket Head]

Hello? Anybody out there? Lol, nobody has any thoughts or opinions on my tank trouble? Somebody in mapleland must have modified a plastic tank at some point. Sugarmakers are always modifying things!

[lew]

Buckethead,

That is one of my main complaints about plstic tanks, among others. However I have and do use them at times. what I have done to overcome the drainage problem is to use a 4" hole saw and cut a hole where I want it. Then get a new plastic floor drain plumbed for 4" pvc, the kind with a bolt hole pattern around the outside edge.. Set the floor drain over the opening and mark where you will drill holes to fasten the floor drain to the bottom of tank. Drill holes, liberally apply a coating of food grade silicone on the drain and place over opening. the 4" opening is large enough to let you put your hand up inside to put the bolts down through and the nuts will be on the outside. I used stainless steel nuts and bolts. tighten down the nuts and let silicone cure. Then you can use bushings to get down to whatever size pipe you want. This has worked for me. If one starts to leak you can do it all over again, just the drain and silicone are wasted, since you can't get your hand up through a 2 inch pipe very well to install the bolts.

[Bucket Head]

Hi Lew,

Thats a good idea- something serviceable if a problem should arise. I did'nt give a 4" fitting a thought. I was thinking of, if possible, getting a hand through the stock drain hole with the fitting removed to fasten hardware on a flanged drain. Have you ever cut a larger hole in a tank for cleaning, or have you been successful with the stock opening? Thanks for the reply.

Steve

[Bucket Head]

I just found a thread from February dealing with drains and access holes! I guess everyone with these tanks have the same problems! What would we do without hole saws, sawz-all's and jig saws? Tommorow we start modifying! Thanks guys.

Steve

[RustyBuckets]

There is no such thing as food grade silicone. Incidental contact yep, food grade for submersion or constant contact nope. Im just saying.

[adk1]

I have a 200 gallon one that I use as my feed tank. I drilled a hole i nthe bottom of it and then used a bulk head fitting with a 90" elbow coming out of it.. works great.

[farmall h]

Buckethead I have a 350 gal truck tank w/fender supports that I did as AD1K did. To cap the existing hole I used a piece of the left over material from when I took a sawzall to the opening...enlarged it to about 30" diameter ( a small boy can get in it and shop vac what ever is left from the around the bulk head fitting). I basically sandwiched a round piece of gasket material between the two pieces...drilled 1/4" holes and secured with stainless bolts & flat washers..no silicone needed. Although I hate to clean the darn thing,,,stainless is so much nicer. Used milk bulk tanks are self draining.

[Bucket Head]

Yeah, you can't beat stainless tanks! This poly tank will be my collection tank, replacing my trusty cage tank, which has become too small for the number of taps I have now. Thanks for all the replies guys.

Steve

[sapman]

What I did was to continue to use my main 2" fitting with the 90 elbow inside (gets it down to only couple gallons, much less if you can tip it), then drill and tapped for a 3/4" nipple near bottom with a ball valve. Gets the rest out, again tipping it. A dump truck is the best.