Deposits on inside walls of syrup pan--impossible!

[maple marc]

I hope someone can suggest a solution to this problem. I have deposits on the inside walls of my syrup pan that are impossible to remove! I have tried just about everything: filling the pan with water to the top, adding the appropriate amount of pan acid and then simmering. I let it sit in there for 3 days....no help, even with scrubbing. Then I doubled the acid amount....still no action. Then I drained the pan and used undiluted white vinegar....still stuck. Then I got desperate and used some muriatic acid as I put the pan up on its side. This only loosened some of the deposits, but is also left a haze where the edge of the solution met the pan--not good. I think I have developed some compound that NASA can use on the outside of the next space shuttle. It's the world's toughest material!

The bottom of the pan--below the liquid level--cleaned up beautifully. Please help me with the sides!!!!

Thanks,
Marc

[PerryW]

I had the same problem on my 3x10 front pan 20 years ago, tough deposits above the waterline. Yup, there pretty much still there.

Using a 1" putty knife, wire brush on a drill, sharp chisel, and any other implement I can find, I can occasional chip off a piece of it, but much of it is still there. Since it's above the waterline, it' mostly cosmetic.

[red maples]

they chip off now and again. Its just calcium. same as the rest of the pan but because its about he water line it keeps on collecting. I have yet to see a pan over a couple of years old that doesn't have that build up. one thing you can try is White vinegar straight or dialuted your choice. clean up the pan really good (remove all the carbon off the bottom) Put it on the stove when your wife or family isn't home!!! plu all the holes water tight. fill it above the build up line and boil away and scrub every few minutes keep adding water to it. the aggitation combined with scrubbing and use a plastic scraper to scrape etc. it will work off but be ready to be there for a few hours to get it clean.

I learned to deal with it. its just a part of the pan now!!! But like I said it will slowly chip off!!!

[PerryW]

But like I said it will slowly chip off!!! Nice to know I'm not the only one.

The first year, we spent three days trying to chip that stuff off. We laughed about the directions of the pan acid. Use a wooden paint stirrer to scape off the niter. yeah right. Start with a sponge, then try a plastic sraper, then a metal paint scraper, then a chisel, then a belt sander. I was about to try explosives when my wife stopped me and said,"Maybe this is clean enough?"

No we spend one evening on cleaning the pans. They get as clean as they get and thats it.

[Brandy Brook Maple Farm]

[QUOTE=PerryW;188191]Nice to know I'm not the only one.

I was about to try explosives when my wife stopped me and said,"Maybe this is clean enough?"QUOTE]

That's too funny. Just never use a pressure washer.

We used to spend hours each day cleaning our pans. It took us awhile (and a new front pan) to learn that sometimes you just can't get it any cleaner than it is.

[Jeff E]

That build up is common, as said. I agree that it does not cause a lot of grief to makeing syrup. But I like to start the season with a very clean pan, and when people visit the sugarhouse I want them to see stuff shine!
I usually end up doing multiple acid washes. The key (obviously) is to get all the niter below the acid wash level.
A typical season end clean up goes like this:
1. flush out all the loose stuff and and rinse everything down real well.
2. Fill as high as possible, and add acid (I use milk stone remover from farm supply)
3. Start a fire and get it up to a low boil. Keep it going for an hour or so, adding liquid if needed.
4. Let it cool and sit for several days. Over those days, I will use a stiff brush or a green 3m scrubb pad and work on deposits.
5. I drain it down to about 1/2", keeping the extra acid wash to use in my steam pan. With a bit of the solution still there in the pans, I scrub away until it is clean. If I cant get it done, I add the acid wash back in and fire again, maybe adding more acid.

Oh fun.

[DrTimPerkins]

Then I got desperate and used some muriatic acid as I put the pan up on its side. This only loosened some of the deposits, but is also left a haze where the edge of the solution met the pan--not good.

Do NOT EVER use muriatic acid (also known as hydrochloric acid) or Clorox to clean your pans -- whether they are stainless or english tin. Chlorine is not good for the pans (as you've discovered), as it can cause corrosive pitting. If left for a period of time, it'll eat pinholes right through the pan, which will result in your being quite sad and your wallet being quite a bit lighter.

On a smaller scale, it is not a good idea to use Clorox on your spouts or buckets unless you do a really good job of rinsing afterward. Definitely don't leave your spouts soaking in a bucket of water with Clorox. You might just end up with a real mess and possibly totally useless spouts.

[PerryW]

Dr Tim,

Assuming I'm not letting it soak.....

Should a Clorox solution be avoided for cleaning stainless tanks and plastic tanks?


Is so, what is recommended?

[jrgagne99]

Definitely don't leave your spouts soaking in a bucket of water with Clorox. You might just end up with a real mess and possibly totally useless spouts.

Dr.Tim,
Are you talking about metal spouts, and not plastic ones for buckets?

[CBOYER]

Theres a difference between cleaning, and let soaking. If you just take a solution of clorox, (sodium hypochlorite), and wash and rinse well just after, there is no problem for low grade ss. If you let soaking for hours and the worse, put heat.. Bye Bye ss, pitting is started, oxyde film that protect your SS is broken, an irreversible attack is started. And, Hcl, muriatic, orhydrochloric acid, (sames) must never touch SS.