Should I try to modify?

[Rugburn]

I'd like some opinions on my old 2 X 6. I rescued an evaporator out of the ding weeds this past February. It's been through an auction or two and then sat outside for 3 years at least. It was oil fired, which I converted to wood. It is a soldered flat pan rig. I raced to get it up and running and be able to use it for the season (my second). I hung 100 buckets and made 16 gallons of nice syrup. It evaporated between 15-16 gph. I realized that running my machine shop should take priority over suggaring, after it took 18 hours to boil off my 275 gal. tower. This is a nice old unit and now doesn't owe me a thing. My question is, would it be wise to try some drop tube setup or something else to get a higher evap. rate. I already have a preheater in place. And it came with a homemade hood that I didn't run, but will next year. I don't own the trees I tapped but was granted permission, so I don't want to get too much into this endevor because I could loose the permission. I can do the fabricating myself, what would you do to turn this rig into a hotrod? I have nothing to loose. Background info- it is insulated with fire brick and ceramic ins. Grimm tags on all pans and arch. Thanks in advance for your help.

Regards, Rugburn

[twin6]

Sounds like you've done a great job under the circumstances. My 2 cents is to rig up a blower under the fire - there are plenty of threads on the site showing different approaches. Bang for buck, this one improvement will boost efficiency through better heat transfer. We run a flat pan too, and it has limitations, but preheating and forced draft are ways to improve your boil rate.

[TimJ]

I'd look for s set of used pans for a 2x6 - with a drop or raised flue.

[RileySugarbush]

For a simple upgrade you can do yourself, copper drop tube soldered into a stainless pan just can't be beat. They are very easy to fabricate and the evaporation rate will be increased proportional to the added area so it's a great big increase in production. This increase will be multiplied if you add a simple under fire air blower.

[Rugburn]

Thanks Twin6, I hadn't considered a blower. I saw an older post where the guy drilled 144 holes in the back pan and silver soldered copper drop tubes in place. Not sure how that would work, but once you start drilling there would be no turning back. Plus for what it is worth, the integrity of the old unit would be lost. The evaporator in general is really pretty nice as is, condion wise. But I do want to: increase boil rate, spend little $. I don't mind sweat equity. That way when work is pressing I can walk away.

[RileySugarbush]

Rug,

It was Warner's Point that made the pan you are thinking of. I built several drop tube pans using steam table pans. No need to drill, you can use a greenlee punch and it is very quick to cut the holes. Soldering is easy once you have practiced a bit.

There is no substitute for area!

Preheating the sap will increase your rate 10% on a good day, with a hood and if you are lucky.
A blower will increase your rate 20 to 40% with an increase in wood consumption.
Adding drop tubes can increase your rate 200% or more. Really!

[Rugburn]

Wow John 200%, now you're talking! The back pan is made of SS .03" thick. I'll check on the punch. Like I said this rig doesn't owe me anything seeing I only paid $600 for it. Now if I bought new pans I would feel as though I should run them hard, as much as possible, to recoupe my investment. That is the situation I'm trying to avoid. I love maple syrup, and the process. But having little help I need to get in and out in a timely manner and to stay small enough to keep it enjoyable and not turn it into work. Thanks for the advise!