What Do Ya Think?

[treehugger]

I am getting around 25-27 gal/hr evap rate with my rig. I am feeding the fire every 7 min. Stack temp 800-850. Blower going. Boiling hard. Pre heated sap is at 175-185. I was expecting more loke 30-35. Am I wrong in my thinking? I also thought I would be drawing off syrup after 3 hours of boiling. That aint happening either.

[SSFLLC]

Do you have a pan under your pre-heater to catch the condensation?

[treehugger]

The pre heater has a drip edge that drsins in a bucket. I get about 3 gal per hour from that.

[mike z]

How's your wood? Spit small? Dry?

[nymapleguy607]

The question is where are the pans boiling hard. If the syrup pan boils good but the flue pan doesn't or vise versa then it might be a draft problem. If you don't have a blower that might cut you back some to. I know my 2x6 likes 1200 degrees or better to really boil hard. I get between 38 to 42 GPH.

[SSFLLC]

Be for you give out the stack temps. Is it a probe or a magnetic stuck to the stack? Firing every 7 minutes. How much wood are you putting in? You may need to use more. Keep the fire blazing. If its just coals when you refire. More wood or fire sooner. Is the space below your flu pan to open? If so raise it up too about 1 inch below it. Keith

[treehugger]

How's your wood? Spit small? Dry?
the wood is mostly dry. Split to about 4".

[treehugger]

The flue pan boils real hard. Syrup pan not nearly as much. I have a grimm woodsaver blower.

[treehugger]

thermometer is probe (condar). I recently put brick in the arch ramp to help with syrup pan boiling. The arch has another ramp under the flue pan. But there is room under the flue pan mostly.

[Jeff E]

As stated, the boil is the key. Adjust your blower/draft to maximize the boil. Sap depth can effect this as well. Run 2" or so, the lower the level, the quicker the boil, the riskier as well.
Try for a uniform boil throughout the syrup pan, and a jumping boil in the sap pan. You get that, you are maximizing the system. The boil rate will be what it is.

[treehugger]

Its boiling real hard in the middle of the flue pan. Not so much in the cack or the syrup pan. Should i build up the level in the arch? If so how high and should it be the entire length? Thanks. I appreciate any help. I know this rig has more to offer.

[Jeff E]

Start with adjusting your blower and/or draft. It sounds like your moving to much air so the flames/hot gases are going back before up.
If you cant resolve it by managing the air intake, then the ramp can be adjusted.
Think about making the heat go up to the syrup pan, then back through the flues.
Is you arch fully brick lined?

[treehugger]

Fully bricked with 2" fire brick. Sand on top of that and rail ga.sket. Th e arch is warm but not real hot.

[Jeff E]

Sounds good. I think with a bit of 'tweeking' you will get it boiling the way you want. Start messing with it, and don't stress over this, you'll get it sorted out.

[treehugger]

You're right I do feel stressed. I've been dreaming of 35 to 40 gallons for year And when you don't get it it's real disappointing. I took your advice and lowered my blower speed and things have improved somewhat. Using westwood too. After this boil is done I think I will add more bricks and build up the arch level And build up the ramp is well. I wish you were closer I'd buy you a beer.

[red maples]

hmmmm with preheater, blower, hood you should be over 40 I would think. With mine stock rig no preheater, (drop flue though) no blower no hood, I average 32gph on a good day I can average 34/35, when its good and hot I can hit close to 40 gph...usually the first and last hour is around 25 gph so it brings the average down.

Good luck tweeking hope everything works out.

[treehugger]

Red maples, how much space do you have between the arch and the flue pan? And do you have the ramp built up the help syrup pan heating?