full port vs. reduced port valve?

[bison1973]

I'm getting fittings to set up a new auto draw off this year. It's recommemned to have a valve behind the auto draw and another tee'd off for manual control. Would going with a reduced port ball valve be ok Vs. a full port? They are definitely cheaper and just less bulky.

[Bucket Head]

I guess you could go with the reduced port if you had to, but I would reccomend the full port valves. That way you have no restrictions and whatever the valve is attached to drains completely. There will always be fluid left behind the smaller port valves. I use full port valves on all the sap gathering and storing equipment as well as the evaporator.

Steve

[danno]

As you are never going to be drawing out of your syrup pan at full port, I would think the reduced port would be fine. Before my autodraw, I run my valve only 1/4 open max. I also don't have a manual draw valve. My marcland has an open valve switch where I can run the valve open even if I'm not up to temp. I guess you would only need the manual valve if the autodraw malfunctioned.

[wiam]

What size rig? What size pipe? My opinion is go with full port. I have seen times when I wanted to get way past syrup out in a hurry.

[bison1973]

it's a a 3x10 and the auto draw uses 1" fittings.

[wiam]

If you are not boiling concentrate I think you could get by with valves that are not full port. I would definitely run full port if there was an ro involved.

[danno]

I just don't see it - I run a 3x10 with an RO and the ONLY time I have my valve wide open is when I'm cleaing the pan and want to drain it. If I opened my 1" valve open full while boiling, I'd scortch that first divider in a hurry.