Next generation evaporators

[MN Jake]

Last year was my first year and I had collected 51 gallons of sap before I pulled the plug and quit being that all I could boil on was a 2'x2' ss pan on a stack of bricks. I didn't know what to expect, or how long it would take and if it would even taste good. It was gooooood! I got 2 gallons out of that 51 and now I have the ambition to do at least 200 gals of sap this year. And hopefully more the next year.

So then today I was searching on line for an evaporator. (that is usually my style to wait untill the last minute to make a purchase, prices are usually better that way too!!:lol:) Wile searching I ended up on The Maple Guys website and didn't realize it was the same as the forum until now.

I know there is alot of info on here, I have been reading on here for hours but I don't know what to do. I like the price of the Next generation evaporator but are the $1500-$2000 evaps worth the extra money. I don't mind the extra cost if that means less boil time but are the 3 pan models more fickle to run?

I have 35 taps for this year, last year I had 14 and only had them in for one week. I have 150+/- trees that I could tap in the future. What would you guys with more experience do? Any help appreciated.

[maple flats]

Did you use a hydrometer? 25.5/1 is great sugar content, I wonder if you were finished to the right density. 25.5 to one is 3.3725% sugar in the sap, excellent if that is the case. We should all be that lucky. (I once had 3.75% but only 1 day, mine usually runs 2-2.3% with a few rare surges Are your trees yard or roadside with huge canopies, that helps sugar %. If you are looking for used try our classified. Also look at Bascom maple.com and go to used. Unfortunately this is not the time to get great deals, late April and May are best as producers decide to expand and sell the smaller rig. At that time you will get the best used (and new)prices. Right now several are in the same position as you and that tends to hold prices higher, big demand, small supply = higher prices.

[Flat47]

Another good option: http://wfmasonwelding.com/evaporators.html Bill Mason is a member on here.

Flat pan rigs like the Next, Mason, and Leader Half Pint will all boil around 8 gph. To really gain more gph, you need a rig with a flue pan. There are some great 2x4 and 2x6 rigs out there with impressive evap rates gained from the surface area in the flue pan. Used units come up for sale fairly often - just keep your eyes open. If you're looking to work up to 150 taps, I'd look for a 2x6 with a 4' flue pan. A big factor is your time. Are you able to boil every day, or just on weekends?

[sk8heaven]

Jake,
Well, if you look at my signature you will see what happens once you start this maple syrup thing! I used just the 2x2 pan over a propane burner the first year and I was boiling 8 hours a night most nights - so i added anothr pan and a double burner - and of course, more taps so I still ended up boiling 8 hours a night just now i was making almost a gallon of syrup a night,
My point is - if you have 150 trees you could tap, you most likely will tap them so buy an evaporator that is sized to handle that number of taps. Search for a used small evaporator to get you by until you can afford a larger one. I don't think i would spend the money on a new one myself.
I, myself, am waiting to make sure that i can sell everything i make with the taps i have this year and then decide on an evaporator size since i can either stick with the 250 taps that i have out this year or i can expand to 500 taps. I was going to do what you are looking at, but keep delaying. I will probably end up going with a 2x8 rig.
I would recommend a 2x6 drop or raised flue for your number of taps - you will tap them all - you just don't know it yet it's a sickness:lol::o:confused:;)
BTW- Where in MN are you?

[MN Jake]

Maple Flats, I did have a hydrometer. I finished it to the correct line on it and took the pan off and set it in the snow. I have had it in the fridge almost a year now and there has never been any mold on it. So I think it was pretty close. My trees are in a river flood plain, almost no underbrush and they are spread out pretty good. Last year they were in two feet of water when I was collecting. All silvers. I will check out bascom, Thanks

[MN Jake]

Flat 47, The problem for me is that they look complicated to me and the descriptions online are pretty short. Does it take a long time to learn how to run the more expensive ones or does it make it simpler as you go more expensive? I dont know anyone else that does this, no operation to look at.

[MN Jake]

sk8heaven, I know I will tap all the trees I can. I will find any excuse possible to be in the woods, I have OCD :lol: (outdoor compulsive disorder). I don't mind the cost of a new one, just don't want to regret buying a not so good model. Not sure if there is such a thing but a 2x4 or 2x6 with the ability to upgrade pans later would be ideal. I am outside of Elk River MN

[Indiana-Jones]

Jake, I'm just about a half step ahead of you in this learning process. This is my second year, last year made 5 gallons on 19 taps, moved up just like you are planning.

Worked all last fall to build a 24X60 drop flu. (Still working on it). I have boiled once this season and I think that I learned that it takes 200 gallons of sap to make it worth the effort to fire the rig up. You can't keep sap but for two or three days before it starts to spoil, so you need to be able to boil twice a week. Could stretch to once a week if it is cold out.
This has been a screwy warm year and made it hard to get sap daily, so take this for what it is worth.

If you got a day job (I do) and it looks like the sap collecting is going to fall just to you, it might be better to take an intermediate step. A divided 24X36 pan or something like. You wouldn't have to have a ton of sap to make syrup and have a good time. But if you got the time or the taps on tubing go for it. I kinda wish that I would have not talked my self into the "for just a little bit more $$ you can get this" A bigger rig is sorta like a second job.

Good Sapping

[MN Jake]

With a little more research I have figured out the question I really have is this..... Can a lower priced unit with a single pan be adapted later on as I learn? I know a good stainless welder. The drop flue part was confusing me but I am figuring out that all it really means is the pans have some type of extra surface area built in rather than flat bottomed.:confused:

[MN Jake]

Jake, I'm just about a half step ahead of you in this learning process. This is my second year, last year made 5 gallons on 19 taps, moved up just like you are planning.

Worked all last fall to build a 24X60 drop flu. (Still working on it). I have boiled once this season and I think that I learned that it takes 200 gallons of sap to make it worth the effort to fire the rig up. You can't keep sap but for two or three days before it starts to spoil, so you need to be able to boil twice a week. Could stretch to once a week if it is cold out.
This has been a screwy warm year and made it hard to get sap daily, so take this for what it is worth.

If you got a day job (I do) and it looks like the sap collecting is going to fall just to you, it might be better to take an intermediate step. A divided 24X36 pan or something like. You wouldn't have to have a ton of sap to make syrup and have a good time. But if you got the time or the taps on tubing go for it. I kinda wish that I would have not talked my self into the "for just a little bit more $$ you can get this" A bigger rig is sorta like a second job.

Good Sapping

I am a builder and can and do make my own hours. I will not miss deer season and am trying not to miss this maple season either. I have been very busy in N Dakota and could use a well deserved break so I can carry 5gal buckets 400 yards thru the woods, sounds like a good vacation huh. I can boil at anytime and dad and his buddy are willing to help out, I had dads help last season too