float valve

[mikem]

I am planning on adding a float box to my evaporator. I have heard of using a valve that you can pick up at the hardware store. Has anyone done this and how did it go? Can you use the copper floats you see at the hardware store or do you need something special.

Mike

[1badsapper]

Just seen them at Tractor Supply for cattle tanks ect. About & 20.00 for a decent one. It has a small copper float. I don't know if they are adjustable though.

[Bucket Head]

Go to your local, dedicated plumbing supply and ask for a Roberts valve. Some people call them a Mansfield valve because they are a maker of them too. Grainger also stocks them, as well as Dultmeier Sales- their online. I used these valves on my homemade floats and boxes.

Steve

[moeh1]

There are several new float valves on ebay for 10-20 bucks right now. Mueller brand...

[mikem]

Okay. I see the valves in your pic's. I have seen them before but was wondering about there sensitivity. The ones I saw seemed to have a large input movement to valve aovement ratio. I was worried that it might require too much level change to open and be hard to control. I was looking at a 1/2" valve. Perhaps a larger size might help.

Thanks Much

[Bucket Head]

Mike,

They do have a larger movement ratio than a valve setup on a factory made float and box. Actually, the factory ones are not even a valve- just a flat stopper that pushes against the inlet elbow, but they do travel less. This type valve will still work. My biggest problem with these Roberts valves was self induced! I used some pretty thick stainless round stock (because it was free!) to make the control arms. The weight of them forces the float to ride lower in the liquid, which is'nt a problem with the back pan sap depth, but it is with the shallower syrup pan float box depth. Some folks run their syrup pan at a inch and a half or there abouts, which is about the height of the float itself. The best thing you can do if you are making control arms is make them out of the thinest (lightest weight) material you can but not so thin that it does not remain rigid. You would have no control if the arm flexed. My arms are 5/16" thick stainless- yeah, way too heavy! They work, but I would like to make new ones out of thinner material. Someday I'll get around to it, in my spare time. Good luck with the project.

Steve

[wiam]

Okay. I see the valves in your pic's. I have seen them before but was wondering about there sensitivity. The ones I saw seemed to have a large input movement to valve aovement ratio. I was worried that it might require too much level change to open and be hard to control. I was looking at a 1/2" valve. Perhaps a larger size might help.

Thanks Much

What size is your feed line. I would not go smaller for the valve.

[mikem]

I have a small evaporator. Max 20gph. My feed lines are 1/2". For my small setup this is plenty. So I think I'll go with the 1/2" valve.

[farmall h]

mikem I am in the process of finding and setting up a different design than the waterloo floats currently in use. Matter of fact I was looking in MSC Industrial on line minutes ago. You could possibly get pn.36897106 (3/4"). It has a bronze body and a bulk-head NPT fitting to mount on your evaporator. I was looking for 1". The rod is adjustable at the swivel point. I'm gonna try one on the sap feed line. If you don't have a copper ball and rod you can purchase those separately.

[Toblerone]

I made my own for less than the cost of one of these valves. See this thread:
http://mapletrader.com/community/showthread.php?7796-Homemade-float-valve

[kinalfarm]

i used a float valve that sounds like the one you did, and used a copper toilet bowl float it works great.