New flue pan started!

[HAHA I 1]

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg190/HAHAI1/acda3a2b.jpg

Finally started on my new flue pan. Went with a V shaped design for simplicity. I just need to plasma cut the ends, then weld them on. It more than triples my surface area, so I hope it improves my boil rate.

[Bucket Head]

It looks good. Heated surface area is the name of the game! What gauge sheet metal are you using and are you MIG or TIG welding it?

Steve

[BoarsNest]

How deep and wide are the flue's? Did you form that in a standard press brake?

[Rossell's Sugar Camp]

That looks great! how much did the metal cost?

[HAHA I 1]

Bucket Head - Its 20ga, and I plan to MIG it. Unfortunately, I do not have a TIG welder (yet).

BoarsNest - The flues are 6" deep and are SUPPOSED to be 4" wide. They are running wide (springback), which makes the pan too wide. But as I weld it, it will be fixtured so that it is slightly compressed to the proper width of 4" flues. My brake is not wide enough for a 36" pan, and probably wouldn't handle this much metal anyway, so I took it to a local shop and their brake was big enough to form them. All in all, it was a fairly easy set of forms, just a lot of metal to maneuver.

Rossell - The metal was something I had for a while, but it should be about $150 or so.

[b116757]

what wire and gas do you intend to use?

[HAHA I 1]

Whatever my welding shop tells me! LOL.

[b116757]

Well then when they recommend the wrong gas because costs double the right gas and contains helium which is very hot and you can't run a bead to save your *#? And are burning holes every where good luck and have fun

[wiam]

Well then when they recommend the wrong gas because costs double the right gas and contains helium which is very hot and you can't run a bead to save your *#? And are burning holes every where good luck and have fun

Huh? Where does that come from? Do you know his welding shop?

[HAHA I 1]

Kinda what I was thinking, too. I happen to NOT be an expert at welding, so I will be using the recommendation of the only local welding shop.

[Sugarmaker]

This is the kind of junk to ruin a good thread about someone building there own pan, and why some of us dont frequent this forum as much. Sorry my 2 cents isnt helping much.
I think the pan looks great and if you weld it your self it will be a great project!
Regards,
Chris

[xulgiy]

I have used the tri-gas and it'll work fine. I would recommend spraying the surrounding areas with anti-splatter, and using solarflux on the back to prevent the ugly! Looks awesome so far!

[HODGE]

Well then when they recommend the wrong gas because costs double the right gas and contains helium which is very hot and you can't run a bead to save your *#? And are burning holes every where good luck and have funWOW! Somebody needs to pull their head out of their ....... One thing that makes this sight great is the overwhelming support that so many are willing to give. I don't post much, but I read and research a lot. This project is great! Some day I would like to build my own evap. Keep posting the progress!! Looks great!!

[packrat]

Looks like the plans I had drawn up for my pan because it would have been easier to bend, only fear I had was the build up of minerals in the bottom and was afraid it might burn. Evidently nobody else had that fear as they didnt say anything. Maybe I gave up a good idea. Harold

[Sugarmaker]

Should not burn if there is sap in it! Picking up a bunch of surface area. Let us know how it works!
Regards,
Chris

[Tom_saw]

Nice looking start ! If a person were to use the same design for the flues but make it into a raised flue , would the 12'' sides be tall enough to keep the splash in , or would I be better with the drop flue ? I can still see a problem with draining the pan completely with either drop or raised flue .I'm new at this . I just want to have it right the first time . Thanks Tom

[toquin]

How deep above the flues are you going to run it?

[wiam]

Nice looking start ! If a person were to use the same design for the flues but make it into a raised flue , would the 12'' sides be tall enough to keep the splash in , or would I be better with the drop flue ? I can still see a problem with draining the pan completely with either drop or raised flue .I'm new at this . I just want to have it right the first time . Thanks Tom

The distance from the top of the flue to the top of the sides of the pan would need to be the same with drop or raised.

[Tom_saw]

I was thinking 6'' flues .

[HAHA I 1]

The flues are 6" deep and the sides are 12" high above the flues. Going to try to weld it up this weekend since we are going to start boiling tonight!!

[toquin]

Did it work?

[Fred Henderson]

You have a great looking pan started so please continue with your idea. I might add that Vermont evaporator company that was in Ogdensburg NY many years ago had the same design, except the "V"were closer together at the top. Good work.

[HAHA I 1]

Did it work?

Waiting on some #%$&%&*$^ sap!!! It got really warm here, and has not been below freezing for many days. I have 2 small leaks (not really worth worrying about), but I can't seem to fix them. Its starting to look like Frankenstein with all the times I have zapped it with the welder to fix the leaks. I should just leave it alone and boil.

Fred Henderson - I would have liked to make the "V"s closer, but was limited by the break press. So far it looks good. I still have to figure the best way to empty this crazy thing, but with it only being a 2' x 3' I can still drain it to the tops of the V's then just lift it out of the evaporator. If this works, I will replicate it on the 3x9 evaporator I am building this summer. FWIW, I went from 6sqft of surface area to 15.75sqft of surface area.

[Cameron670]

Awesome pan, Was it made on a typical press brake? or was there special fancy stuff? Going to try one for myself soon!

KJC

[HAHA I 1]

Typical press brake, but its a kinda big one.

[warners point]

I still have to figure the best way to empty this crazy thing, but with it only being a 2' x 3' I can still drain it to the tops of the V's then just lift it out of the evaporator.

I have the same problem with my flue pan. Try using a siphon. I'm getting an extra one from the local home brew store.

[HAHA I 1]

Well, it works like a charm! We started boiling this morning. I have tried to keep the level about 3-4" above the flues, and the strength of the boil is high enough that it shoots over the 12" sides. Massive improvement in boiling to say the least. I am going to time it later tonight after work wraps up so I can see what kind of rate I am getting, but its for sure over 20gph (I was at 10-12 before). One thing is for sure: it was well worth it. I have to keep a closer eye on things to make sure it doesn't go too low, whereas before I could let it run for a while longer and not have to worry about scorching.

[Like Minded Farmer]

[QUOTE=HAHA I 1;174986] I have 2 small leaks (not really worth worrying about), but I can't seem to fix them. Its starting to look like Frankenstein with all the times I have zapped it with the welder to fix the leaks. I should just leave it alone and boil.
QUOTE]

Nice looking pan. A dab of lead free solder might work on that small leak. Just clean and tin it good first. Try to use very low heat and a soft flame.

[toquin]

HAHA. Thanks for the update. Im going to try the V next year on my back pan but it sounds like I'll need extensions all the way around

[HAHA I 1]

I am already starting to build the pans for my new, bigger evaporator next year (3x9) and will be doing the v-flues in the sap pan for sure. Didn't get a chance to get a rate on it, but I will the next time the sap runs.