time to re-bore the Husky ?

[Stamford sugarmaker]

My 1994 Husqvarna 55 is not running well. For many years it would reliably start cold on 6 or 7 pulls, winter or summer. That is no longer the case and recently I've had to adjust the carb settings to try to get it to run properly.

Today it seemed to run OK while I was cutting some 16" diameter soft maple. After running it wide open for several cuts it seemed to overheat, would stall, and wouldn't restart. I'd do other stuff for 15 minutes or so and it would eventually re start.

I cleaned the air filter and it seemed to be somewhat dirty. I noticed that the compression didn't seem to be that much different with the compression release open or closed. It was a little harder to pull, but not much. I again readjusted the carb settings according to the manual, but I couldn't get it to idle or run properly. It was also difficult to re start.

Yeah, this thing is 17 years old, but, relatively speaking, it was only used by a little old lady cutting white pine before church on Sundays. (Actually, 7 or 8 cords of hardwood a year.) I don't have a compression tester but I'm thinking it might need to be bored out. Do they still do that? How much will it cost compared to a new saw? My lifestyle will be changing drastically in a couple of years when my wife and I retire to a foo foo environment where a saw won't be that necessary and sugaring will be a thing of the past.

Thoughts?

thanks, Peter

[Potters3]

I had a Husky 55 Rancher, that was acting the same, (my wife took it to the repair shop) they put in $200 in repair. Saw still didn't run right so I traded it in for a Husky 268. Wish I had found the right person to fix the 55 it was 10x a better saw. But mine was $300(the 55) brand new how much is the limit on fixing a old saw, mine was 12 yrs old.

I have since gotten a couple of little Stihl to work in the bush with for $200. great saws light weight and fast RPM for cutting brush and smaller trees did drop a coulple of 2' white pines with them just to see if I could, I keep the Big Husky for blocking only.

[dschultz]

Stamford, take the muffler off and look to make sure the holes are not plugged from carbone.I had the same problem as your talking about,gave the muffler a good cleaning and it was good as new

[Grade "A"]

I don't use the compression release because carbon can build up on it, and when the compression release is used the carbon can make it stick open. This may be your problem.

[foursapssyrup]

your best friend in saw diagnostics is a compression tester. pick one up at your local auto parts store, they are cheap, and can be used on many other things. you can also take your muffler off and look into the bore to check for scarring in the cylinder walls or piston. if you see distinguished vertical lines, you preobably need a rebuild.

sometimes you can have the cylinder honed and piston re-ringed and you are good to go. other times a big bore kit from baileys is needed (many times these are bolt on kits with little fabrication).

[wiam]

I put a rebore kit in my 372xp about a year and half ago. Jug, piston, rings and gaskets on ebay for about $120. Yes they were aftermarket, but they work fine and the bore is 50 over. I would ponder bearings when you are in there, mine went a little after I did jug so I had to tear down again. I got bearings with a crank on ebay for less than just bearings locally.

[Dill]

Hold the saw up by the pull rope. Does it drop easily? If yes then toss a set of rings in there.
I bet the muffler guess is what your issue is. Either grab a new one or blow the old one out with high pressure air.

[Stamford sugarmaker]

I'll try the pull rope trick. Now that I think of it, a couple of years ago a new muffler solved a similar issue. What confused me was that the new muffler seemed like it had no restrictions- it just appeared to be an empty cavity- but it worked.

Thanks for the real good suggestions. I learned a lot about saws and compression. I will try them next week when I return home and post my findings.

Peter

[mnguy]

I had this same issue with my 455. I rebuilt the carb and has been running great since.

Mike

[Russell Lampron]

If the saw was running hot it was probably running too lean. Remove the muffler and look at the piston. If it is scored it is time for a piston and cylinder. Chainsaw cylinders are chrome or nikasil plated and honing them removes the plating. Some cylinders will clean up with muriatic acid and light sanding. If the piston is scored you need to find out why before you replace any parts and damage the new ones. A vacuum leak is the most likely culprit and a pressure/leak test is needed to find it. If the piston and cylinder look good then check and or replace the fuel and impulse lines and fuel filter. If those don't fix the problem put a carb kit into it and make sure that everything is clean.

[Dill]

Your right Russ, I was confusing 2 of the replies and thought he had sent it in for a carb rebuild already. Rereading it hasn't so it probably is just a fuel line issue.