Cherrywood$$$$

[Z/MAN]

I helped my neighbor take down 2 cherry trees last weekend. He took 3 logs to a local mill today. 11 feet long X 18" diameter, one a little less. He came home with $127.00. We thought this was kinda low for 3 nice straight cherry logs. Any thoughts??
Paul

[maple flats]

What was the diameter at the small end of each log? The mill will only pay for 10' for a log between 10'4" and 12'4", if shorter than 10'4" down to 8'4" it is an 8' scaled. Those lengths are if the ends are square and not angled if towards the shorter length. If you can guess the small ends I will calculate the prices. I also need to know if they were straight and what each face was like. Picture a log as having 4 faces, at 90 degrees to each other. 4 good faces pays the most and it drops from there. If there is much curve you lose a % depending on the amount of curve. Even though some of the best looking grains come from curved logs, there is far more slab in that log. If you have any pictures please PM them to me so I can judge them if possible. Logs are scaled from the small end, and graded according to the good faces. Knots and defects drop the price the quickest. A log bucked so crooked or damaged at the end may need to be scaled at the next 2' shorter. When it comes to bucking logs in a logging crew generally the most knowledgeable cutter does that, because poor cutting and knowledge of grading can cost you big $ at the mill. When I get the needed info I will give the price I would pay at my mill, prices vary widely from one area to another. In cherry graded the same NY will pay higher than many other areas because we have a major buyer about 35 miles northeast of Syracuse. Right now prime maple pays more than prime cherry. This relationship goes back and forth. Logs graded as a slicer or at least prime pay well but as the grade drops the price falls very fast.

[wiam]

Yards around here will pay at 1' intervals for hardwood. I do not think a small local mill will pay top dollar for a prime log. Local yard is paying $175 for pallet - $600 for 1A. These prices are /1000

[spud]

High Maple Flats,

It was very interesting to read what your saying about selling logs. I know little to nothing about this but have always been very interested. I have some cherry trees on my land and always wondered what they might be worth if i brought them to a mill? The stems are at least 20 long before you hit any branches. They are straight as an arrow and about 16-18 in dia. I also have some yellow birch that are about the same in size and quality and was wondering what they might be worth? I plan to tap another 1000 taps sometime but would like to cut some of these trees out before i do. I also have some very nice hemlock that are 24+ inch in dia and was wondering what they are worth? My dream was always to buy a wood-mizer or a timber king mill and just saw logs for fun. I am not sure if that dream will ever come true but if so what mill do you think is best? Sorry for asking a lot of questions. Merry Christmas

Spud

[jasonl6]

If you only have a few logs a local small band mill sawyer might pay you more than a big mill. Also you might be able to get more if you have them saw the wood and let i dry for a year. I have bought cherry lumber from individuals for $2/bf which is allot cheaper than the $3-$4 at the mill i use to work at.

Jason

[Greenwich Maple Man]

Yards around here will pay at 1' intervals for hardwood. I do not think a small local mill will pay top dollar for a prime log. Local yard is paying $175 for pallet - $600 for 1A. These prices are /1000

Priceing per mill is going to depend more on what there markets are as opposed to the size. If a mill has a call for x amount of whatever they will have to pay a going rate or sometimes a little higher to fill there order. It is always best to get price sheets from several mills before selling. Some may pay higher for one grade then the next. Most of my high grade will go to one mill and then sawlogs to another and pallet to another. You wil get the best price on your wood that way. It all "boils" down to supply and demand.

[maple flats]

High Maple Flats,

It was very interesting to read what your saying about selling logs. I know little to nothing about this but have always been very interested. I have some cherry trees on my land and always wondered what they might be worth if i brought them to a mill? The stems are at least 20 long before you hit any branches. They are straight as an arrow and about 16-18 in dia. I also have some yellow birch that are about the same in size and quality and was wondering what they might be worth? I plan to tap another 1000 taps sometime but would like to cut some of these trees out before i do. I also have some very nice hemlock that are 24+ inch in dia and was wondering what they are worth? My dream was always to buy a wood-mizer or a timber king mill and just saw logs for fun. I am not sure if that dream will ever come true but if so what mill do you think is best? Sorry for asking a lot of questions. Merry Christmas

Spud
If the stems are straight, free of defects for 20' height and you cut them the right lengths you will get the most money (defects are not just branches, but any blemish that might devalue the log). I will get my price guide for tomorrow night. In the meantime, measure the DBH (diameter breast height) of the trees. If you don't have a diameter caliper or cruising stick to measure, don't guess with other means, just give me the circumference of each stem and I'll do the math. For height to the first limb on each, use a looong pole to get that. Also, realize that the stump generally swells at the very bottom and the log should start at about 3" below the bottom of where that flare starts, in other words you will cut and have 3" of flare at one end. When I get this info I'll scale it and attempt to grade it based solely on your description. Then I'll give you some values in CNY. When it comes to what you might get locally I suggest you stop at a mill or 2 before you cut, armed with the info I just asked for. Sometimes a miller will pay more for some lengths than others depending on what their needs are. Asking first helps you know what lengths to buck each log based on what is available in the stem. Also, don't stop at the first limb if you still have another log or more that will scale at least 10" on the small end. Lastly, when you drop the trees you must know how. For the best price you make 60-70% of the notch on the trunk and only up to 20% on the log. Make the notch be at 90 degrees overall. Many times those bucking what could be high value timber degrade or lost length because of errors in dropping the tree. If your notch is less than 90 degrees, the tree will often pull wood out of the log you want top price for. Anytime this goes into the but of the log, that log will be bucked shorter to get to good wood. You will see a stump that has done this by noticing the fibers standing up from the stump after the cut. Any fiber left standing was yanked out of the log. Making the big notch prevents this.
Just a primer of basics of felling a tree. Determine where you want it to fall. Clear the path. Have 2 escape routs, at 45 degrees form straight behind the intended fall. Chose the height for the notch. Mark it if you are new to this. Have a minimum of 3 wedges, 4 is better. For a tree in the size range you are talking, use 10 or 12" wedges. Shorter wedges are tapered too fast and tend to kick out. Make sure you have a full tank of gas and oil, never risk running out at the worst time. Now make the notch cuts and verify that it is at right angles to your fall path. Make the notch cut 1/3 of the diameter, in depth. Next do a plunge cut half way between the the hinge you will leave and the back of the tree. Start the plunge carefully using the bottom of the bar, just where it starts to curve around the tip. If you go too far to the tip it will kick violently. Once you have plunged thru the trunk, carefully and slowly cut towards the wedge (open face) until you have a uniform hinge of 10% of the diameter (20" tree=2" hinge etc, make sure it is uniform side to side). Now, if the tree has any lean in the right direction you can just saw from the plunge cut out the back. This prevents several common errors. If you must wedge the tree to make sure it goes the right direction or if you must push it against the lean, after you have finished the hinge, make another plunge cut from the back into your first plunge. Take a wedge and drive it tight into the last cut. Then cut in from each side parallel with the wedge and be sure not to damage the hinge. Go a little from one side then the other until you finish. If you are good with a saw those last cuts should be from your first plunge back one side then the other a little at a time until the cut is finished.
This method is what should be used for all dificult trees or high value trees. If you just notch and cut from the back as you might normally you risk degrading the log. Good luck

[spud]

Thank you.

Thanks for all the information everyone. Hey Maple Flats it sounds like you have done this a time or two. I will be getting some numbers for you in the next day or two. Thanks again and Merry Christmas.

Spud

[Z/MAN]

Sorry I didn'tr get back to you Maple Flats. My neighbor was supposed to give me the pics he had of the logs but his wife didn't know how to download them. I was going to do it for them and one thing led to another and it didn't get done. This morning they left for Florida till April so scratch that idea. Thanks for your reply. We just thought the price was a little low and didn't know if he got ripped or if that is what logs sell for.
Paul

[maple flats]

Not a problem, I was just trying to shine a little light on the subject. After the safety aspect, which superceds all else, felling the tree without damageing it or otherwise degrading it is the most important. You can re-open this when they return if you want.

Merry Christmas,
Dave