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View Full Version : 18"x63" evaporation rate



Jec
09-21-2011, 04:36 PM
What can you expect to get out of a D&G 18"x63" drop flue evaporator w/ forced draft?
Thanks,
Joey

Maplebrook
09-22-2011, 02:46 PM
I can boil 12 gallons per hour once it is warmed up. I have a preheater and hood, no forced draft.

jimsudz
09-28-2011, 05:01 PM
Hey Joey I had a sportsman I could boil aprox.23 gal / hr.I had hood,preheater and a blower blowing under the grates,also made air tight door. You must burn finelly split,hardwood that is bone dry,set timer to fire every 8 minutes. Good luck Jim

Jec
09-28-2011, 05:09 PM
So im thinking I'll get 18-20 gph with blower and 5 month seasoned wood. What do you think?

jmp
09-28-2011, 06:53 PM
JEC if you can retrofit with air over fire you will increase your evap rate substantially versus just air under fire. My two cents. Good luck.

adk1
09-28-2011, 06:56 PM
Just curious, everyone with AOF/AUF, do you have an insulated from door? Mine 2x6 definatly doesnt. I see that it is about $1500 to get one for my Leader. Any suggestions?

RileySugarbush
09-28-2011, 07:01 PM
It is easy to attach ceramic blanket to your arch front and door for a reasonable price.

adk1
09-28-2011, 07:01 PM
It is easy to attach ceramic blanket to your arch front and door for a reasonable price.

ok. have to ask. how so?

maple maniac65
09-28-2011, 07:28 PM
I believe it is called Tungsten steel. Leader sells the pins and washers to attach cewramic blanket to your door. They are expensive though but they will not melt like a regular bolt or washer.

Jec
09-28-2011, 07:39 PM
So, If you have AOF will you need any draft under the fire?

RileySugarbush
09-28-2011, 08:10 PM
ok. have to ask. how so?

You don't need anything that exotic. Get some 1" ceramic blanket. Then go to the hardware store and get some stainless screws #10-24 UNC x 1.25 long, some stainless fender washers and a tap drill and tap if you don't have them. Probably less than $15 for the hardware. Drill holes in your door and arch front and tap. Even if they are cast iron, it works fine. Push the screws with washers through the blanket and screw them through the door and front. Tighten them in part of the until the blanket is compressed a quarter inch or so, the threads will be sticking out the front. Get some pliers and smash the threads sticking out a little right up close to the door. I actually used some diagonal cutters to do that nice and close. Now from the inside, back the screws out until the smushed threads jam in the tapped holes. Cut and grind smooth the remaining threads if they offend you sticking out there. Paint if you are extra particular.

Thats what I did four years ago and it's still there.

ClarkFarmMapleSyrup
09-29-2011, 06:17 AM
If you guys are talking about how to insulate your pans from arch, here's what I did:

I took the insulation strips, and added some fire brick cement to the bottom of the insulation. then I took it and laid it on the arch where the pan sits. Kept it hot, kept it not-smokey, in the sap house, and worked well.
:)