Flat pan fittings

[chriscrilly]

Brand new virgin newbie here, right out of the box.
I have bought a 2' x 4' divided flat pan to use as my only boiling pan. I'm building an oil tank arch. The pan, which I got for a song, is normally used with the four foot dimension across a bigger arch. On one end are four fittings: 2 are 2" for flow from one such pan to another in a multi-pan set up on a 4 foot wide arch. The third fitting is a draw off which will now be over the arch stoking door...no good. The fourth fitting is a very small slanted tube going into the pan end. Question: How do I block the 2" flow-through fittings which are not threaded? What is the tiny threaded and slanted fitting for? I realize I'll have to fit a new draw off on the side. Any and all advice will be appreciated. Thanks.

Chris C.
40 buckets
Soon-to-be-built oil tank arch
Soon-to-be-built 12 x 16 sugar house.
Havelock, QC

[Flat47]

The small slanted port is for a dial thermomter.
Try taking a look on Bascoms web site (bascommaple.com) or Leader (leaderevaporator.com) for rubber pan connectors. Similar to a FernCo fitting, but food grade and heat tolerant and attached with hose clamps. You could then plug it with a brass plug from the hardware store.

Here's a link to the pan connectors on Bascom's site:
https://www.bascommaple.com/item/ekfc2/float_acc/

[3rdgen.maple]

Or solder on the inside of the pans a peice of stainless steel sheet over the fitting. WIthout actually seing the fittings that are on it its hard to say what else could be done but I would think a copper end cap could also be sized up and soldered on the outside of the fitting. Pictures would help a ton.

[Potters3]

Sounds to me like you have a crossflow pan, should be able to get caps to plug the pipes . Look the pan over there should be a manufacturer sticker on it somewhere, they would have the plugs you need.

The websites mentions have almost all that stuff as well

[Jim Schumacher]

Is the pan you are using a modern pan? Is it welded? If so the fittings are likely clamp style fittings, either Tri-clover, VNE, of another identical competitor. You can get endcaps for those fittings, look at the link below. Call them and tell them what you need to accomplish. You will only need to know the size, which is measured on the inside diameter. They will direct you to the caps, gaskets, and the clamps you will need to terminate the ports. Also keep in mind that they make 90° elbows and every other imaginable fitting to attach to those ports. You might be able to utilize those ports by extending them away from the firing door and not have to cut and weld new ports on after all! The thermometer ports can be terminated by threading in a 1/4" NPT plug. (;)food grade of coarse:D)

http://www.vnestainless.com/Fittings/ClampFittings/Caps/tabid/555/Default.aspx

Jim

[Haynes Forest Products]

What you don't want is trapped sap/syrup in the plug over the fire door. It can burn and stink up the syrup. As a last resort they do make silicone plugs that are food grade, high heat and are made to plug up these ports. You DO NOT want to just stick the plug in and call it good. You want to bolt it in place using a SS carriage bolt. Head on the inside and a flat washer on the outside of the port lip.

[chriscrilly]

Thank you to all who replied to my pan fitting questions.
I'll follow up on all suggestions.

Of course there are more questions.
I am currently having my 40' x 45' barn restored and moved off a hill-side stable and onto the level ground.
The barn doctor, himself a fairly substantial sugar producer, suggested putting the sugar operation in a corner bay of the restored barn, instead of building an entirely separate sugar house. The vertical rise from the evaporator to the nearest safe part of the tin roof is about 10 to 12 feet above the evaporator,
As for steam, he says the drafty, unbattened walls of the building would easily dissipate the steam.

Anyone got any advice or experience with such a set-up?

Regards,
Chris Crilly
Havelock QC.

[Haynes Forest Products]

I would disagree with the idea that the steam will dissipate out the poris walls. First it has to get past you and anything else within 10 ft of the evaporator. Plus in a cold barn the steam will cool and drop and wont make it to the walls. Whats wrong with a 12 steam stack and hood? Plus why will the steam leave the building. unless you have air movement out to carry the steam I say it stays and makes you damp and miserable:o

[GramaCindy]

I'm with Haynes on that one, Last year I boiled in our pole building, with the double wide doors open, back door open and steam still collected from the waist up into the rafters. Then it proceeded to rain down on me and drip from every possible point. Not fun at that point. At first it was really cool to see all of the steam, but it took it's toll on me and the guests after a bit. Opening the doors did help quite a bit, and the roof was leaking steam from every possible opening, Just my two cents. Put in a cupola at the least!