Manifold on two pipe system

[vtmapleman]

Has anyone use just three (3) Tee's as a manifold on a two pipe system. There would be one Tee in the dry line and another in the wet line (which is normal for 'standard' maniford) and a Tee in the branch line about two to three feet up the branch line. The branch line would connect directly into the wet line; while a short piece of pipe would connect from the dry line into the Tee in the branch line. I am planning on putting a ball valve on the short pipe connecting the dry line to the branch line. I am putting this valve there so that when I wash my lines (water/air) the water does not go into the dry line. Comments/Concerns greatly appreciated.

[Thad Blaisdell]

The biggest problem I have with this style manifold is when and if a tree falls on your conductor it will most likely break more than just a connector. It will be way to stiff not enough play. Then once you do have it fixed there is no room for the top/bottom line to have moved during the repair It will be difficult to make them line up the same as before. There are better ways to make manifolds.

[batsofbedlam]

This is a photo of how my wet/dry line was set up. It has plenty of flexibility and no breakage.

[MilesTeg]

We used this style this past season and had no problems. I would suggest instead of using Tee's use "Y's" and we also put our shutoff valve in a manifold where up the single branch line with a vacuum gauge on it to test for leaks during season. If you need pics I can get them to you.

[vtmapleman]

Batsosbedlam,

What type of pipe is the yellow connector pipe you are using? It would appear to be very flexible. Thanks

[batsofbedlam]

Tiger Flex tubing is very flexible and probably cheaper than hard pvc fittings.

[Maple Hobo]

Make your vetrical tube as close to the size of your main pipe as you can or enter with a Y fitting so it is less prone to slurp or splash up into the dry line.

You want your vertical to be tall enough too so it helps prevent liquids going up.

If your going to add valves and or vacume gages... I recomend the rigid manifold method.

I'd like to add some clear milk line for a 6-12 inch segment as the lateral line enters the manifold on our system still... Its just cool to see the water flow and see how much its moving...lol

[brookledge]

I would recommend doubleing or trippling the size of your vertical tube from your main line. You definately do not want sap jumping up into dryline
Keith

[Jeff E]

I have built rigid and the 3T method of running a mainline off of a W/D line. Most of my rigid manifolds have broken from side loading during very cold snaps, when tubes contract at different rates.

I like the manifold effect of the rigid pvc, between Wet and Dry, and I wish I could get that with the 3T method.
There are days when the sap does run up into the dry line, when the sap line is still frozen but the trees are starting to run. I think you should build the system to handle that. That is one of the benefits of the W/D system.
I have the dry line 1 size larger than the wet line to accomodate this: for example, wet line 3/4", dry 1".

I am thinking of just putting in some more Ts, creating a verticle connection between the wet and dry lines, to allow sap to drop from the dry line to the wet line, and to act as a manifold, equalizing the vacuum.

One concern with the ribbed connector line shown before, is that the ribbed area will be a tough thing to get clean. Bacteria love nooks and crannys.

[keill4]

We used this style this past season and had no problems. I would suggest instead of using Tee's use "Y's" and we also put our shutoff valve in a manifold where up the single branch line with a vacuum gauge on it to test for leaks during season. If you need pics I can get them to you.

Can you email pictures of your 2 pipe ladders to us. We are looking to set one up. Thanks keill4@frontiernet.net