Source for 6" aluminum steam vent pipe

[maple flats]

I need 12' of 6" alum. vent pipe for my hood. The prices are very high from the catalogs. Does anyone have a source that is cheaper than the $24/3ft length. That is rediculous, even if I have to make my own out of alum. flashing as a last resort.

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

I just bought a section of 3' stainless from a stove supply place of 6" for only $ 22 8O

[brookledge]

go to a heating or plumbing supply store. Why can't you use galvinized steel? If it is only for the hood, I would think it will last a long time. It will never get hot enough to burn off the gal. coating.
Keith

[maple flats]

are any of the rest using galv? I might just try it since I hope to have a bigger unit for 07, don't want to put too much into one that will go after the season.

[super sappy]

Mr.Flats- I am using galvy stack on my Alum hood. The actual pan cover is all Alum. At the top of the hood I purchased a square 8" to round 6'Adapter with a flat flange($6.00 at heating supply store)I made a rubber gasket to sandwich between the Alum hood and the Galv stack.I have concerns about the metals not getting along in a moist enviroment a plumber gave me some 6-0 lenght air duct that I used for the stack.-SS

[White Barn Farm]

When I made my steam hood I used my siding brake to make my aluminum steam stacks. I broke tradition and made them 8" square for my 2x3 flue pan. It is easier to flash around and tie in to my hood. Also I put a damper on a slide where my stck meets my hood. Time will tell how this works but it sure looks like it will.

[maple flats]

I have access to a fully equiped sheet metal shop and the master who is teaching his grandson offers all advise needed. I ended up making the pipe from aluminum roof flashing. The first 2 pcs from year lod flashing from one mfg went well, the rest from mfg #2 was only fair but I finally got it done. The 2nd batch was too hard and was difficult to get to take a shape. The roll machine would roll it and there was no curve in it, crank tighter 2 or three more tries before it worked. Before the the pipe loc machine had similar problems but that can not be run a 2nd time so I had to finish the seam bend with the break a little and then after putting it thru the roll about 4 times more than the first 2 pieces it finished with a leather mallet on the seam lock bar (?, a curved bar sticking out that the pipe is laid on and the seam is hammered flat). It worked but sure would have been faster if I could have bought it. This old master likes to talk and I can't say I am in a hurry if he is giving free instruction and free use of his equipment.