View Full Version : Help a rookie
hicks road
05-08-2011, 09:25 PM
I recently purchased my first evaporator, it is a Dominion Grimm 18 x 48 with a pre heater and a channeled pan, the thing that iam not 100% clear on is when you start up do fill the pan up or just the first channel? The other thing is when the sap enters the last channel and becomes syrup how do know when to stop drawing off? because from what I understand there is more sap right behind it if you just keep adding more sap. Hope someone can answer these Questions if not at least explain to me how a channeled pan functions. Thanks
brookledge
05-08-2011, 09:58 PM
The entire pan needs to be filled. If you don't and it is soldered it will melt and if it is welded at best it will warp. So fill the entire pan. Then as far as drawing off goes, use a hydrometer or thermometer. When it reaches syrup watch the thermometer. Then as you draw off the temp begins to drop shut the valve until it comes back up. Smathing with a hydrometer. test until the hydrometer drops then shut the valve
Keith
maple flats
05-09-2011, 06:07 AM
Yes, run the pans about 1.5" deep until you get familiar with it. In a short time reduce depth to 1.25" and then 1". At 1" it will boil better but you should get some experience first. Does this have a thermometer port near drawoff? If yes, go by temp and verify with a hydrometer. Even with a rig that small try to just barely open the valve when ready and draw until the therm. drops below 219. I started constant draw (as much as possible) on a 2x6 and it can be done if careful to open valve barely enough. If temp rises open more, if it drops close more.
Sugarmaker
05-09-2011, 10:11 PM
Hicks road,
Keep asking questions. Lots of folks here that can help you get started properly.
Regards,
chris
Flat Lander Sugaring
05-10-2011, 06:15 AM
. I started constant draw (as much as possible) on a 2x6 and it can be done if careful to open valve barely enough. If temp rises open more, if it drops close more.
I have tried the constant draw but the ball valve "sugars up" and flow stops. so then have to open close it several times then flow starts again.
All good advice, along with needing a hydrometer keep asking questions and you will be all set for next year.
Ausable
05-10-2011, 07:13 PM
Howdy hicks road - All good advice. Yep - When You first start Your boil fill the whole thing with sap cause at this point it is kinda like a batch pan with channels - Being You are new to a flow thru setup - even running at 1 1/2 to 2 inches aint all bad till you get the feel for your new rig. So as the sap boils away and your level is going down add sap from your feed tank or however you are gonna do it. I don't have a float regulating valve so I just throttle my sap valve and keep an eye on the pan level. As You keep boiling You will notice that the sap in your last syrup pan is becoming more like syrup and as you keep going it will become near syrup. So If the temp in the last syrup pan is getting around 218F and on testing a sample with your syrup hydrometer it is starting to float You are getting near syrup and your first draw off. Now some of the Guys are really good at this and draw it off right at syrup -- I'm still learning and draw off at near syrup - about a quart at a time on a small rig and filter it into a pan - when I have enough - about 2 gallons I finish it off on a turkey fryer burner. I'll Stop here - but - another trick You are gonna have to learn - is how to shut down and leave your pans sweet till You start your next boil ------ Mike
Haynes Forest Products
05-10-2011, 11:33 PM
You can batch your days boil and stop as close as you want to syrup. I used to boil all day in a 4X4 flat pan and wait till it was as close as I felt comfortable doing and then spray the fire out. I would drain and start all over the next day. It wasn't as fun as firing the rig up and drawing off but it was better than having sweet sitting around getting dark and stinky
hicks road
05-11-2011, 09:09 PM
thanks for all the info but what are you supposed to do with the sap in the pan when a day of boiling comes to a end ? how many taps do you think a 18" x 48" evaporator is good for do you think 75 would be way to many? if were planning on boiling for at least 12 hrs a day a couple days a week
hicks, have you read the North American Maple Producers Manual yet? If not, get a copy and read it cover to cover.
PerryW
05-11-2011, 11:22 PM
thanks for all the info but what are you supposed to do with the sap in the pan when a day of boiling comes to a end ?
leave it in the pan and wait for the next sap run.
how many taps do you think a 18" x 48" evaporator is good for do you think 75 would be way to many? if were planning on boiling for at least 12 hrs a day a couple days a week
75 taps (with no vacuum system) may give you 100 gallons of sap in a good run. You can probably boil 10-15 gallons per hour with your rig, so a typical sap run will take 7-10 hours. I guess it depends how many good sap runs you get per week, but 24 hours of boiling per week would probably handle it.
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