Standard raised flue pan vs. Max raised flue?

[Bucket Head]

I'm toying with the idea of changing up my flue pan. I'm just trying to determine which route to go if I do it. It would be a homemade project but I'm posting this here since these questions all all-inclusive.

Going by the Leader Co. performance figures, a 2x6 Max (4ft. flue pan) does 50-60gph and a 2.5x8 standard (5ft. flue) does 60gph. Yes, I know there are variables to these numbers, but we'll pretend their standard outputs. I have a 2.5x6 and have thought about stretching the arch and making a longer standard flue pan or making taller flues for the 4ft. pan. If both of these configurations have roughly the same output, which upgrade would be the better way to go?

Forget about factors like sugarhouse ceiling and feed tank height's or overall sugarhouse size. I can make it as long or as high as I want. I'm not worried about how much fabrication one will be over the other. I'm wondering about the pan's operation. Is there anything tricky about the taller flue pans? Would my forced-drafted (no air-over-fire) fire be enough for the tall flues? Would I tend to make darker syrup with one or the other if for whatever reason I don't have enough heat for the tall/short length(Max) or short/longer length(standard) flues? In regards to a longer standard flue pan, how long of a pan could I put in front of my 2ft. syrup pan and still be allright? Would a 2.5x6 standard flue be too big?

I would like to hear from the folks who have any of the pan sizes above. Which style do you like better? What type of arch do you have and is it enough for your pans? Hows your boil? Anyone not happy with a Max pan? Anyone making more or less of any grade syrup because of a change in pan configuration?

I've heard a lot of pro's and con's from a lot of people- how much of it came from experience is uncertain. So I figured I would ask the people who do have experience with the different pans and arch's. Any input on these questions will be greatly appreciated.

Thank's,
Steve

[xyz5150]

I also looked into this from what i understand you need more that just a blower to achieve 60 gph on a 2x4 flue pan. Leader says without a high efficiency arch you wont get enough btu's on 2 ft wide arch to see much benefit of a max pan. I just bought a revolution 2x6.5 set for my homemade arch with a blower and i felt like i was leaving a 1200.00 steam away on the table ( 1200.00 is the price difference between the standard drop flue 40gph and a max flue 60gph) i guess i will never know and i have 1200.00 saved for a ro.:lol:

[Bucket Head]

Thanks for your reply. I know the firebox is somewhat small on the smaller sized rigs. I'm thinking I have enough fire-making capacity for a larger flue pan. My fire box is quite a bit larger than the factory rigs I've looked at and my grate is both wider and longer also. I have no problem and all getting my current pan to boil from front to rear, and that is with my forced draft blower restricted quite a bit. I have a lot more feed air capacity if I needed it.

Anyone out there with a 2x6 Max? What do have for a wood fired arch? Are you getting a good boil throughout? Anymore pro's and con's with the max-type pans? All comments and concerns will be appreciated.

Steve

[unclebuck]

The leader rep that was at bascolms open house told me to achive those numbers with the max flue pan you would need the high efficiency arch ,forced draft, and and insulated arch front that is what it was based on

[Bucket Head]

My arch is fully insulated with the 2600 degree blanket insulation, arch front and door included. I'm thinking I have enough heat capacity for either the tall flues or the longer standard height ones. I've had some high stack temps. when I was experimenting in the past, so I know I would have heat for the additional heating surface. I just don't know what style of pan to go with.

Steve

[turnpike]

I have a 2x6 patriot setup and I am upgrading to the max flue pan for next year. According to Leader, if you have stack temps above around 800 (in a 2x6, but should be comparable to other sizes) then you are giving up excess heat. I stuck on one of those magnetic stack thermometers on my stack this year and it quickly maxed out at 1000 degrees. Therefore I am confident that I will be able to boil at the full capacity of the max pan. I have the new style arch with forced draft and insulated arch front and I rigged the door to be pretty air tight. They say that the max pan soaks up a lot of heat and stack temps tend to run cooler as a result. It will be interesting to see how it goes....Would be interested to hear about anyone else's experience with the max pan as well. Did you have to push it to get it to boil good or did it boil as easy as your old pan?

[Bucket Head]

Turnpike,

I'm certain I have enough "excess" heat also. Thanks for sharing what Leader told you.

Steve

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

All depends on how well you learn your evaporator and learn how to get the max out of it. I get as much or more out of a 2x8 with a standard flue pan that Leader say you can get out of a max flue pan.

[Bucket Head]

Brandon,

This is exactly why I wanted to hear from guys with similiar pans. The Leader performance figures are close to actual fgures. However there are guys out there who do much more than factory ratings. I've asked a lot of guys (including you I believe?) what they got on their 2x8's and 2.5x8's. From the responses I knew I could expand my rig and I hope to do it in the future. I just can't decide on wether to go with a standard flue style pan, max flue-like pan or even make standard height flues but make what would be considered a really long pan. I don't know what I would be happier with.

Steve

[lew]

I purchased a 5x10 Max pan last year to replace an older standard flue. WE are oil fired so I can't comment on forced draft, but I can tell you that I experienced a 33% increase in efficiency with no other changes than the pan itself. We were boiling 3 gpm on the old rig. By just replacing the pan I jumped to 4 gpm, with no extra fuel. I now have the capacity to increase my fuel and get even more out of my rig.

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

On a normal day I get 64 to 66 gph which DOES include startup and shutdown and I hope to get it up around 100 to 110 with a steamaway. 100 would be 50% increase and 110 would be about the 65% increase they say I should get. This would get me up close to the same performance I would get out of a 2x12.

If I was going to buy new pans, I would pay the extra and get the max pans. Tim has a 2x10 with max pan and steamaway and gets 175 to 180 gph and makes 20 to 25 gph with 12% concentrate.