Flue pan/syrup pan/% of Brix relationship question

[Bucket Head]

I understand the operation of an evaporator and I understand the Maillard (spelling?) browning effect that takes place. What I've been pondering lately is how large of flue pan and how small a syrup pan can you have and still have the proper amount of heating time for the browning to take place? What if you have a steam-away and an RO? Most rigs I've seen have a flue pan that is about two thirds its length and the syrup pan is a third. I do know of a few rigs that have a six foot flue and two foot syrup pan. I see the Leader Max pans come in the standard length configurations. So they have more evaporation capabilities but still have the same size syrup pan. Then you put an RO and steam-away in front of that same syrup pan and you still get amber colored syrup. At what point does a syrup pan become unable to colorize the sap? I realize the color change takes place throughout the rig, but most of it happens up front.

For arguement only, what if a guy kept his 2 or 3ft. syrup pan and put a flue pan behind it from a 16ft rig? Or a 12ft. flue and steam-away? What if he had an RO too? At some point there would not be enough heating time, correct? There must be a reason why the manufacturers do not offer, say, a rig with a 2x2 syrup pan and a 10ft. flue pan. Or a 2x2 front and a 10ft. Max flue pan.

Any ideas on this from those of you who have a better understanding of the Maillard effect than I and knowledge of Brix percentages of the sap in each area of an evaporator, with or without the evaporation enhancements?

See what happens when there is no sap to boil? Way too much time to ponder and type lengthy posts! Lol.

Steve

[Bucket Head]

Part two of this question would be about the possible lack of maple flavor from the reduced heating time. One goes with the other. Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Steve

[3rdgen.maple]

Well the only thing I could think of in the size of the flue pan versus the syrup pan is the design of the arch. Not to throw another scenerio at you but I was thinking that an effecient arch with the ramp to get the heat up into the flues versus the size of the firebox might be a big part of the reason behind pan setups. How would a 2 foot firebox be big enough to heat a 12 foot flue pan? As far as your carmalization question the syrup has to reach the proper temp to be syrup but the amount of time to get there depends on how fast you can get the sugar content up. Getting it there quicker would indeed sacrifice on flavor and color, atleast I would think. But what if you had old sap it would be making a better grade syrup. Sounds like we need two rigs, one for early season sap and one for late season and old sap. I also have to think that if you have an RO a 12 foot syrup pan and a steamaway then you have too much money or like making thick sugar water but I bet that would open up a market for bulk packers to blend in with grade b. Bottom line is you have to much time to be pondering such question. lol

[3rdgen.maple]

Okay so now you got me to thinking. Why not have a short but wide evaporator. Lets say and 8 foot by 10. 8 foot flue pan with a 2 foot syrup pan. Load the wood in the firebox sideways or have the arch doors on one side instead of the front. You would have a 16sf syrup pan. Boy would that be a heck of a large drawoff at onceI want one lol.

[Bucket Head]

See what happens when NY sugarmakers have too much free time? Lol!

Seriously, don't think about the firebox/arch length/width/heat, etc. I'm not argueing that part. I'm wondering about the maximum amount of evaporation heating surface area compared to the minimum syrup pan size. Somewhere along the line you would have syrup that had little color and only a faint maple taste, right?

For a real example lets use my rig. Front pan is 2.5ft. wide by 2ft. long with four channels. The flue pan is four foot long. I could get a fire going in it that would support a larger flue pan without a problem. So how long could I go? What if money grew on a tree out front and I wanted to get a Max pan? Would my two foot long syrup pan still work with a eight foot flue? I have an RO. Would I now have too much Brix for the color and flavor to develop in the front pan?

I would love to have a longer rig and I could fabricate another flue pan and stretch the arch somewhat easily. What length and type flue pan do I build that would still work well with the original 2.5x2 syrup pan?

Anyone out there with what I will call "oversized" rear pans? How does your combination of pans work?

Steve

[3rdgen.maple]

I dont have too much free time thats for sure. Just taking a break from the sugarhouse and spent some time with the wife and kids who have been in Key Largo while Im busting my ars. But I will just say I dont think you really would make any difference with a larger flue pan without an increase in the size of the firebox. I cannot see how you would be able to gain much of anything as far as gph when the flue pan isnt boiling as hard. I have heard from many guys with a 2x8 that they are a waste of money as the small firebox just does not get the back end of the 6 foot flue pan boiling. Hence the reason I threw at you the wide short evaporator scenario. Go drill some more holes or hang some mailine lol.