View Full Version : pan is too thick
supersapper
04-04-2011, 10:36 AM
i didn't think it would be too big of an issue but but the material my pan was made of is 12 ga. 304 s.s. can i have the bottom cut off and then weld 20 ga on? a friend made this so i don't have much invested in it. what are my options? kevin
RileySugarbush
04-04-2011, 12:20 PM
It is probably cheaper to start over. Welding stainless is tricky. Welding thin to thick is even tougher.
markct
04-04-2011, 07:55 PM
it could be done with a tig and a little skill the thick to thin is no big deal to weld with a tig. i would try the pan as it is tho, i think you will find it boils just fine, a friend has a 3 by 5 stainless homemade pan that was 1/8 thick and he boiled on it for years and seemed to get about as good of evaporation rate as anyone would for a flat pan
supersapper
04-04-2011, 09:44 PM
i just don't seem to get a good hard boil out of it. maybe need to rearrange the brick inside of barrel arch. any pointers on this? thanks
PerryW
04-04-2011, 10:31 PM
I could be wrong, but I can't see any reason why a thicker gauge pan-bottom would boil any slower?
For example a thick cast iron frying pan may take a little longer to warm up but the bacon fries just as quick.
If you are gonna do any soldering, try cutting some holes in the pan and soldering some of those 1" copper pipes with end caps.
MontyVT
04-05-2011, 12:23 AM
I had a new 18 gauge SS pan made this year and had problems getting a good boil until I cut the gap in the rear of the firebox leading to the raised flue pan. It was about three inches tapering to one inch over 1 1/2 feet; after closing it down to 1 1/2 inches, all four partitions boil great. Although it heats up a bit slower than my old thinner pan (naturally), it doesn't want to quit once it gets going. Although your 12 ga is a little more than twice the thickness of an 18 ga, you should be able to get it working fine.
chadsoare
04-09-2011, 01:12 AM
maybe you could rig a blower to the front door of the firebox. This would most certainly increase the heat and you dont have to worry about melting holes into your pan.
markct
04-09-2011, 09:19 AM
i think it likely has more to do with your fire than your pan, are you using small tinder dry wood? plenty of air to the fire? you dont want it to just simmer like a woodstove
supersapper
04-09-2011, 09:31 AM
It is probably cheaper to start over. Welding stainless is tricky. Welding thin to thick is even tougher.
the pan cost me a jug of good whiskey and a quart of syrup:D. good friend! after shortening up the firebox alittle to make the "flue" alittle longer and adding a grate i was getting a pretty good boil. not jumping out of the pan but good enough. i may add a blower next year. i would hate to cut up this pan as they did a very nice job on it, but may add a divider to it.
supersapper
04-09-2011, 09:36 AM
i have to keep the door open to keep the fire hot. i have been using ash and basswood split down to2"x2", some bigger. also some smaller elm as that stuff burns hot.
TF Maple
04-09-2011, 09:52 AM
i have to keep the door open to keep the fire hot.
This is telling you, you need more air and the pan will boil just fine.
supersapper
04-09-2011, 08:53 PM
i am using a 6" stack pipe, should i increase to 8"?
buck3m
04-10-2011, 07:40 AM
TF Maple is right. Make sure you are getting plenty of air rushing in under your fire. Check out your grates. Good grates could make a huge difference. If necessary I'd lengthen the stack.
supersapper
04-10-2011, 09:30 PM
i plan on putting it in a shed for next year. i will have to add 3' to get through the roof and have 3' to get above the roof line.
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