Pumping/Draining 55 gal Drums used for gathering?

[buck3m]

I just bought 4 nice food-grade barrels (not open topped, just the two bungs.) I had a plan to flip them all upside down and plumb them together so I could fill/drain them as a unit. But it turns out that the system ended up with leaks. I'd drilled out the hole in the bung and threaded on a PVC barbed elbow fitting. It looked to me that they were leaking where that fitting bottomed out on the bung. Regardless, the whole plumbing system looked to have too much potential to spring additional leaks in the bumpy woods and freeze up. So I'm interested in a simpler system.

What would be the best way to get the sap out of those barrels? I've got a bilge pump. Should I cut a hole big enough to get the bilge pump in there? If I did what's the best way to prevent the sap from sloshing out? Would siphoning be practical?

[happy thoughts]

Food grade silicone sealants are available. The simplest of all might be fitting these like a rain barrel using a stainless steel shut off at the bottom so they could be drained without a pump.

[Kev]

I just bought 4 nice food-grade barrels (not open topped, just the two bungs.) I had a plan to flip them all upside down and plumb them together so I could fill/drain them as a unit. But it turns out that the system ended up with leaks. I'd drilled out the hole in the bung and threaded on a PVC barbed elbow fitting. It looked to me that they were leaking where that fitting bottomed out on the bung. Regardless, the whole plumbing system looked to have too much potential to spring additional leaks in the bumpy woods and freeze up. So I'm interested in a simpler system.

What would be the best way to get the sap out of those barrels? I've got a bilge pump. Should I cut a hole big enough to get the bilge pump in there? If I did what's the best way to prevent the sap from sloshing out? Would siphoning be practical?
I cut a plenty big enough hole in the top to get in there and scrub. but leave a ring of several inches around the perimeter of the top. that really does reduce sloshing out. but no it will not be slosh free... I also bunge a filter over the top that not only helps filter when i pour in over the top. but assists in keeping sloshing from exiting the barrell

[Bucket Head]

I cut a 8-10" hole in the top of mine. This way I can stick the suction hose in and empty them and I can clean them out when needed. I can tip them upside down and give a little shake to them and get all the sap or wash/rinse water out. A lot of guys use them "as is" but there is allways sap left in them that way, and that sap gets nasty in there. Why put fresh, clean sap into a vessel that has old, soured and bacteria loaded sap in it?

Steve

[MartinP]

I cut the entire top off just below the point where it flares out a bit, then turn it upside down on the top of the barrel with bungs upside down. keeps rain water out but easy to clean and empty.

[vikingHB]

I just bought 4 nice food-grade barrels (not open topped, just the two bungs.) I had a plan to flip them all upside down and plumb them together so I could fill/drain them as a unit. But it turns out that the system ended up with leaks. I'd drilled out the hole in the bung and threaded on a PVC barbed elbow fitting. It looked to me that they were leaking where that fitting bottomed out on the bung. Regardless, the whole plumbing system looked to have too much potential to spring additional leaks in the bumpy woods and freeze up. So I'm interested in a simpler system.

What would be the best way to get the sap out of those barrels? I've got a bilge pump. Should I cut a hole big enough to get the bilge pump in there? If I did what's the best way to prevent the sap from sloshing out? Would siphoning be practical?

I use barrels to collect sap out in the bush. They are placed on a frame which I built to fit into the bucket of my Kioti tractor. I have to empty these barrels in a holding tank. I purchased a drill pump and I connected hoses (in/out), and empty from barrel to tank 55 gallons in less than 10 minutes with heavy duty electric drill. The drill pump was $12 at TSC. I used all season, at least 25 transfers. I figured if it blows up, it was only $12 but no issues.
The bungs are still in the tops of the barrels but I have drilled a 1/2" hole in 1 bung.

[Father & Son]

I use 2 55 gallon plastic barrels for short tubing runs with 10-15 taps each. I have a 1" gas powered water pump that I use to empty them. I zip strip the suction line for the pump to a 3/4" piece of pvc so I can direct the suction line and place it in the bung. Works well for me.

Jim

[Dennis H.]

I made a wooden cradle to hold the barrel on its side. I then took a bucket and carefully traced the outline of in onto the now the side of the barrel. It is a little tricky with the barrel being curved. Then I took a jigsaw and carefully cut the piece out. Then I took the bucket and shoved it down in to the hole in the barrel. At 1st it didn't go down very far so I cut a little more off. I flet that half of the bucket in would be good.

I then took the bucket and drilled a bunch of 1" holes in the bottom. I guess you could always cut the bottom off. I jammed the bucket back into the barrel. It was a snug fit and didn't have to glue of attach it in anyway.
Then at the end of the season I could easliy remove the bucket and scrub the barrel.

[dgp219]

I've taken a 4' piece of black plastic water pipe, heated and worked it till it was straight. Then connected it to my pump hose. You could used barbed fittings, I used quick disconnects. On the open end I cut teeth so when I push it against the bottom of a tank it won't suction to the bottom. This wand fits into any tank. I do like Dennis's idea and will play with it after the season is over.