Help! Arch Firebrick and Ramp Setup

[HV Maple]

Hi there folks, I need some help on my arch setup and I can't seem to get it straight in my head on what needs to be done.

I’m preparing to insulate and brick my arch and need a better understanding on what to do arch ramp area. I did a test boil on Sunday and want to get a better draft going to the rear pan to make it boil faster. I think the way the firebox / ramp setup is now has too much air space and needs fixing.

After searching through the various threads on this topic, I think I’ve got an understanding of what need to be done but I’m 100% convinced I know what needs to be done.

I’m a picture guy, so I quickly threw together three pictures to help out. The first picture shows what the arch setup looks like now, and the second and third pictures are options I’m looking at but need some help and opinions on what would be better.


Existing Setup:

My existing setup has no firewall. The grates end and the ramp starts in about 1/3rd of the way into the rear pan. The height from ramp the bottom of the rear pan is 24”. The ramp then slopes up to the stack. The height from the ramp to the bottom of the stack is about 6”.

Option 1:

In order to get more heat running under and closer to the rear pan, I’m thinking of building a firewall up to about 4” from the bottom of the rear pan. At the back of the ramp I’ll lay a firebrick down, thereby creating a “pit” area that I can fill with up with vermiculite. So, from the firewall to the stack there will be a 4” airspace under the back 2/3rds of the rear pan.

Option 2:

Same idea as Option 1, but reducing the height of the firewall. This will re-create the “ramp” effect I have now, but with a much smaller airspace under the rear pan.

Any feedback, comments, suggestions on what to do would be great.

[jmayerl]

I have nearly the same setup.my grates are 2 feet long then the ramp starts up and comes up to the pan about two feet from the back. This set up boils the back pan very hard but not the front. I would bring the ramp up sooner, that is what I am going to try. My arch was originaly set up for a raised flue pan, I now run 2 flat pans on it.

[HV Maple]

I think I'm going to start with option 2 and see where it gets me. Anyone else?

[mike z]

We made a similar setup this year. The pans measure 24"x30" and 24"x72". Here is a pic. showing how we did the ramp. We styled it after "real evaporators" we had seen.

[Digger]

HV I hope you get more responses to your question. You did an awesome job showing the different senarios. My boiling partners and I debate this every year when we reline the firebox. To all you sugar makers with vast experience, what should we be doing?!

[maple maniac65]

if you have a drop flue put a ceramic blanket on top of your brick and nestle the flues just so they touch the balanket. It is harder to brush out the flues but the boiling temp will increase dramatically. I am getting 100 gallons per hour on a Leader 30x8 revolution and on average 150 after I put the steamaway on.

[bluebay]

HV here's what I did this year. Slight variation on your second drawing. I would build your firewall like you have drawn, but put a slight ramp forward of it. I would also get the height of the wall to within 2.5 -3 inches of the bottom of the pan(if it's a flat pan). I would also slope the bottom of your arch below the back pan from the 2.5 -3 inches in the front to about 1-1.5 inches in the back, then drop it back down to 3-4 inches below the stack area. That helped me alot. I also added forced air under and that made a big difference also. Hope that helps you some have fun.

Fred

[HV Maple]

Thanks folks for your input. I've revised the drawing based on your feedback. Take a looksy and tell if I understood correctly, but I can't see any reason why this shouldn't rip-roar the water out.

[bluebay]

Looks good, have fun hope it helps you out.