What's with the wet spots?

[CitySlicker]

Hi folks, 2nd year small timer here.

A number of my taps are not yet running, which isn't surprising given the amount of snow we still have on the ground and around them. What's worrying me is the wet spots:

I use 7/16 inch old fashioned spiles and old school buckets. Same as last year. This year, I'm seeing a wet spot on many of my trees: an elongated oval that starts 2 inches or so above the tap, and extends about 18 inches below the tap, and is about 3 inches wide.

It looks almost like the sap is leaking out of the tree, but 1) the wet spot is also above the tap 2) my spiles are in there pretty good (yet not so far that I split the wood around it 3) I didn't have this problem last year and 4) the trees with the wet spots have very little sap in the buckets!

any ideas here?

[Daren]

The only thing I can think of is that the tree actually did split a bit under the bark. Gotta be coming from somewhere...???

[Kev]

I think I have split trees while tapping when it is frozen. I feel the wood can not "give" as much and splits instead of compressing around the spile.
but many people on here put in more taps in a year than I have in my life. So if someone says i am wrong I will listen and not argue LOL
I do have a few splits this year. most on the north side of trees that I tapped in the first round of tapping. it was 36 degrees and a very cold wind out of the north, the wind chill was in the low twentys. I try to tap loose. I would rather tap a spile that is leaking later than drive it too tight the first time.

[CitySlicker]

so now that I've done the damage, is there anything to do to fix it?

[northwoods_forestry]

I think you've got a couple of things going on here. First, you're right that it is easier to split the tap hole on frozen wood, at least that's been my experience. Second, with the hard freezes we've been getting some spiles will be pushed out when sap in the tap hole expands as it freezes. I've had to go around and reset a number of taps this spring as a result, mostly metal bucket spiles. The plastic tubing spiles don't seem as prone to being pushed out.

As for the wet spot around the tap hole. I think capillary action is what draws the sap to the areas above the hole.

I wouldn't worry too much if they are bucket taps (though a tightly sealed tap is far better than a leaky one) Most of the sap should still flow through the spile and into your bucket or tubing.

[ComputerSteve]

Another possibility is that the holes were not drilled perfectly round. That could keep the taps from seating properly and leaking. I say this because I had problems drilling some holes and I know they were out of round. I'm really careful not to pound the taps in too hard and split the trees, yet those holes are leaking.

[maple flats]

Unless you tapped them in too hard I think it more likely you made holes that are not round. It only take a little side movement on the drill to make an off shaped hole. Since you are using the old 7/16 taps try pulling them, drill a hole about 15/32 and be careful not to move the drill sideways. In the process as you pull each to re tap you should be able to see any tap damage, replace any broken ones. When re seating tap only until you hear the sound change. When properly seated the sound tone changes. Do not use a hemmer, I like to use a pair of med sized lineman's pliers, tapping with the flat side. This is heavy enough and I often find other uses for the plier while tapping my trees.

[Maplesapper]

I 've also had wet trees above the spiles.
My experience shows that as the temp drops, the drops on the spout o fthe spile freeze. This freezes back up the spile and starts to pop out the spile. I also wonder if sap weaps back down partially within the colums of the tree and the pressure changes at night.