Fuel problem on pump

[maple flats]

I have a new 6.5 hp Honda Commercial engine on my vacuum pump, I removed the gas tank and ran a line from a 6 gal boat portable tank. I have had the engine quit a few times. Any ideas how to route the fuel line. I have the tank above the carb. and use the boat fuel hose primer bulb to fill the line. 3 or 4 times now the engine has quit with gas in the tank. Anyone have any ideas how to remedy this problem?

[Kev]

more than likely your problem is the outboard has a fuel pump. the engine you are using does not. You need to provide a tank that is gravity fed. instead of depending on siphon action. The fuel has to siphon out the top of the boat tank and then flow down to the motor.
IMHO

[tuckermtn]

I have been using a 5 gal bucket for a fuel tank with a low tech threaded 1/4 fitting on it with good luck. Only fill it with 3 gallons or so so as to not flood the carb.
Perhaps the boat fuel tank needs a fuel pump to suck because the draw for the tank is near the bottom of the tank?

[Typical8]

Put a fuel pump on it. It will also kick out on low oil pressure.

[Haynes Forest Products]

Is it the old style tank that you had to pump up??? If not then Change to a bottom sump and install a fuel filter. Most tanks that have a bottom sump/drain dont allow the very bottom fuel to drain because of water or crud so run a filter like a tractor type. NAPA has them with a sedement bowl. They come with a 1/4" NPT so you can drill a small hole and just thread into the plastic it will seal.

[maple flats]

Thanks Haynes, I think I'll try that.

[bobbyjake]

I have a new 6.5 hp Honda Commercial engine on my vacuum pump, I removed the gas tank and ran a line from a 6 gal boat portable tank. I have had the engine quit a few times. Any ideas how to route the fuel line. I have the tank above the carb. and use the boat fuel hose primer bulb to fill the line. 3 or 4 times now the engine has quit with gas in the tank. Anyone have any ideas how to remedy this problem?

We have had a few Honda engines over the years that have quit because of something having to do with the aluminum block/head, valves or rings or something to do with the internals when they got hot (and it wasn't electical, I remember that much). We switched to Subaru Robin engines and never had the problem again.

That said, hopefully it is fuel related and getting the tank set up so it will gravity from the bottom will fix it. We have a 15 gallon cow teet dip barrel that we screwed a bushing plug into one of its bungs and we ran a line from that to the carb. You are really being neglectful if it runs out.

[Haynes Forest Products]

I have 4 Honda engines and 3 briggs and one Allis Chalmers. I run some once a year and others every 3-5 months and never have a problem with them. I dont do anything but fill with fuel and run. Check the oil and get the tank above the carb.

[maple flats]

My original thought was that gas will siphon as long as I get the fuel line full. I originally had the line go a slope all the way. Yesterday to try to remedy this I brought the tank closer so it now goes down to the ground and back up to the carb and the tank is higher than the carb. I will see soon if that did the trick. If not I'll have to drill a hole in the tank, tap it and screw in a fitting to go bottom feed.

[Bucket Head]

Find an old tractor gas tank and mount that higher than the carb. Then you won't have to deal with fuel pick-up locations, primer bulbs or mounting sediment bowls. Many tractor tanks have sediment bowls on the outlet. This will eliminate potential fueling problems and you will have more than enough capacity for extended-run applications. I've done this with water pumps and generators without any problems.

Steve

[dnap63]

if the tank is above the engine than a siphon should not be a problem. did you check to see if the tank is venting. I have one of those old outboard tanks that I was going to use and they usually have to lines on them. if air can't get back in the tank it won't siphon and your motor will quit.

[maple flats]

The vent in the cap is loosened. I ran the pump today after trying one last time. This time I held the primer bulb up to have a venting of all bubbles as I gently squeezed the bulb, then after I heard no air for 5-6 times, I raised the tubing out of the bulb and continued working any air to the carb, like you might work water in a hose out to drain for the winter. I ran the pump for 6 hrs and it was still running good. The lines had frozen and no sap was still flowing so I shut it off til next thaw. I am thinking I may have solved the problem. If it does quit again, I have a 2 gal bottom drain tank I will hook up until I get a bigger one. I just noticed a sale at surpluscenter.com for 4.5 gal bottom drain tanks, brand new @ $18.99. These are generator replacement tanks, steel and they give a Briggs part number for the fuel valve port. I will order a couple if the problem happens again. If one is not enough run time I could just tee 2 lines together with the tanks at the same height and feed from both. I think 1 will do.

[maple flats]

I problem kept reaccuring, so I ordered 2 of the generator tanks (in case I want to manifold 2 and get more fuel reserve.) They were shipped Friday.

[michiganfarmer2]

Put a fuel pump on it. It will also kick out on low oil pressure.

My genny isnt sitting level, and it quits frequently. I wonder if the oil shut off is doing that

[maple flats]

My engine sits almost level, off less than 2 degrees. I think the siphon action necessary was disrupted by an occassional air bubble going from the carberator up to the tank. It takes very little air to stop a siphon. Meanwhile I am getting by using a bottom feed 2 gal tank until the 4.5's arrive on Wednesday.