vacuum gauges on boosters?

[lew]

I have a 2,000 tap woods that I converted over to a wet/dry line system last year. I have approximately 25-30 vacuum boosters where the 3/4 mailines come into the wet dry dry line. The 3/4 lines are all valved so that they can be shut down for washing and vacuum leak detection, but I don have vacuum gauges installed on them. What I was thinking of doing was installing a mainline saddle entrance near the valve, add 2-3 feet of tubing and placing a stubby adapter on the end. Plug stubby with a "T". Do this at each valved vacuum booster. Then take a vacuum gauge and adapt it to fit a throw away spout adapter. When checking for vacuum leaks, just pull out your retrofitted vacuum gauge and place it on the stubby by the valve. Let the system equalize it self, close the valve and watch your gauge. Does this seem like a plausible option, rather than installing 25-30 gauges throught out thte woods? Or does somebody have a different idea?

[Haynes Forest Products]

Lew Thats a great Idea and I tried on the web to find a company that sells quick connects for vacuum. I say that because they have them for pressure and mainly steam heat. Its a little port that is 1/8 NPT and as you walk the system you push the guage into the quick port and get a reading and then move on. Now Vacuum was a different deal Couldn't find one. I have some valves that are made for testing Anti siphon devices. They are 1/8 or 1/4 thread. They have a screw driver slot on them and you could drill small hole and just thread into the side of the vacuum tank/booster. You would screw into female end of valve and open valve:)

[maplwrks]

Lew---I personally like guages at the valves. I know it's expensive to put them in, but I feel that it is well worth the investment. I know of guys that just shut the valve off and listen for air rushing when they turn the valve back on. My hearing isn't good enough to pull this off, too many years of running printing presses! Try looking on line for a quantity of guages...

[nhmaple48]

I put the gauges on each lateral mainline.Got them from MSC for I think $6-8.Best to put a 1/4" ,1/4 turn valve under them,they don't like pressure when you wash and they can't freeze.Just open valve to check.

[sapman]

I was selling gauges last year for $4. I'm not making money on them. Just trying to pass a good deal on. I could probably get more.

[3rdgen.maple]

Lew Thats a great Idea and I tried on the web to find a company that sells quick connects for vacuum. I say that because they have them for pressure and mainly steam heat. Its a little port that is 1/8 NPT and as you walk the system you push the guage into the quick port and get a reading and then move on. Now Vacuum was a different deal Couldn't find one. I have some valves that are made for testing Anti siphon devices. They are 1/8 or 1/4 thread. They have a screw driver slot on them and you could drill small hole and just thread into the side of the vacuum tank/booster. You would screw into female end of valve and open valve:)

IPL makes a 5/16 quick disconect for .44. I use a couple of them between the saddle and slide fitting so I can take down lateral line to get the tracor through. It has worked out very well.
2952

[lew]

4$ a piece sounds reasonable, but what about valves before them so that pressure washing doesn't affect them. I do like the idea of a permanently installed gauge, much less hassles. Do any of you have know of a CHEAP source of a GOOD valve? This option (permanent installation) may be put on the table again.

[Big John]

that will not work. You need to have the gauge at the end of the line. Valve checking only finds the big leaks. with a gauge at the end it will tell you if you have a small leak. What I like to do is a have a trail around the woods with the gauges positioned so you can see them from your motorized device. I see one that says 26 I know I have a leak. And if you have to come in from the trunk line. you can just skip down the ends and look at the gauge until it reads low and then walk that one.

[lew]

big john,

What difference does it make which end of the mainline the gauge is on IF you close the valve and wait to see if it drops off quickly? If you are not closing valves, I can see wanting the gauges as the far end of the lines. In my woods, it is not easily acessible with a motorized vehicle to check the ends, so I have to walk, and walking the center of the woods is by far easier.

[Big John]

with the gauge near the air pipe it will give you a false reading. when you shut the valve the vac rushes out of the leak. and when you turn it back on it pulls air back through the leak. Valve checking only finds the leaks that are large enough for the air to escape through quickly. Like a tap pulled out! but a squirrl bit in the drop that is intermittent( because it made ice,or there is a good run] will not show up on the valve,but it is a loss!! and those kinds of leaks can be very costly in the end. I don't really care for valve checking after I get the vac up to 25. everytime you open and close the valve the sap goes in reverse right back into your tap hole.. thus a vac gauge at the end will tell you if you are missing a 1/4 hg in that line. We shoot for 27.5 HG in our system.

[lew]

John,

You make some good points. By your post, I assume you do valve check until you reach 25 inches? Then you are just checking the ends?

[Big John]

correct, if the gauge doesn't say 26 when running 27 in there is a leak.