How to attach Pan gasket to evaporator

[GramaCindy]

Getting close here in NW WI, checking what else needs to be done, the list is far too long!:o In checking my new Mason today, I had to wonder, how does one attach the pan gasket to the evaporator?

[SeanD]

You can just use high-temperature gasket sealant/adhesive. Any fireplace/wood stove shop that sells replacement gasket has it. You can probably find it at Lowe's or HD too, but be sure it's the high-temp. stuff. Smear a little on the rail and press the gasket onto the sealant. I put the pans on to hold it in place. I don't know if I needed to do that, but it seemed right.

How did the bricking go?

Sean

[GramaCindy]

You can just use high-temperature gasket sealant/adhesive. Any fireplace/wood stove shop that sells replacement gasket has it. You can probably find it at Lowe's or HD too, but be sure it's the high-temp. stuff. Smear a little on the rail and press the gasket onto the sealant. I put the pans on to hold it in place. I don't know if I needed to do that, but it seemed right.

How did the bricking go?

Sean

Sean, Thank you! The bricking will be this weekend hopefully. Will post results then. Kind of not looking forward to that!

[briduhunt]

I put my pan gaskets on using scotch tape to hold it in place untill I set the pans. Then I pull the tape off. I just need it to hold untill I set the pans down as I am usually seting the pans my self. Just my 2 cents

[C.Wilcox]

Sean, Thank you! The bricking will be this weekend hopefully. Will post results then. Kind of not looking forward to that!

Don't fret the bricking. I honestly found it to be easier than I expected. It was definitely slow, but not difficult. If you've got a wet saw for cutting the brick you should have no trouble fitting things together and you won't have to worry about giant clouds of dust. Just keep in mind that the goal is to get the bricks in the stove and minimize the gaps between them the best you can. If you accomplish something close to that you've succeeded.

[Brent]

I've never fixed mine with anything but the weight of the pans. Put the pan on then tilt it and slip in the gastket.

[SeanD]

GramaCindy,

There's all kinds of good advice about bricking, but one I'll add from just having done it, is to leave a decent allowance for the mortar. I dry fit mine too tightly on one side because when I mortared it, I had to go back and recut the pieces along the rail.

I also started out mortaring it like I'd done concrete blocks in the past. The mortar consistency was too thick and I put too much on. Mix it closer to something like pudding and just put a skim coat on.

Good luck!

Sean

[adk1]

GramaCindy,

There's all kinds of good advice about bricking, but one I'll add from just having done it, is to leave a decent allowance for the mortar. I dry fit mine too tightly on one side because when I mortared it, I had to go back and recut the pieces along the rail.

I also started out mortaring it like I'd done concrete blocks in the past. The mortar consistency was too thick and I put too much on. Mix it closer to something like pudding and just put a skim coat on.

Good luck!

Sean

So do you put the mortar in the joints too or just on the outside of the joints with a skim coat?

[Haynes Forest Products]

GramaCindy Im only being picky for others benefit. You dont want to glue it to the evaporator. Now you can clue it to the ARCH if you want but its a mess when you want to get it off. Its all about the gravity. Lay it on the arch rails and set the pans on top and the pans will hold it down.

[cvmaple]

I agree with Haynes. Once you get the pan on it isn't going anywhere and it will interfere with the bricking if you put it on now. Don't worry you will get it all done in time!! Good luck and keep a positive attitude, Your syrup is going to be great.

[Brent]

Unless you are different from any other sugar maker I've been to see, you're going to slop syrup and sap on the sides of the pans. It's going to run down and soak into the gasket. Then it's going to burn there. Next season you're going to go YUK and want to strip it off and put down a new strip. The baked on syrup is already going to make removal tough. Glue will only make it worse. And it's ceramic fibres. Not nice stuff. You don't want to be flailing away at it with a scraper and breathing the fibres.
Just lay it down and put the pan on.

[TC matt]

I just cut ~2" strips of ceramic blanket and lay in on the arch before I put my pan down. It was pretty shot by the end of the season, but it's cheap.

Do you guys use the cord-type of insulation, like for a wood stove door for your pan?

[Haynes Forest Products]

Yes in a way its flat 1" wide and about 1/4" thick it comes in rolls. I have mine pop rivited to my finish rails but not the evap. As stated it will get all crusty from sap and syrup burning into it. My oil burner has melted it into glass on the edges so it breaks up and is only good for a year.

[SilverLeaf]

This thread has got me thinking - what's the actual purpose/benefit of the pan gasket? I don't use one, and don't seem to have any problems with smoke leakage around the pans. Maybe, GramaCindy, with all your "to-dos" you could get by this year without putting a pan gasket on?

[jasonl6]

This thread has got me thinking - what's the actual purpose/benefit of the pan gasket? I don't use one, and don't seem to have any problems with smoke leakage around the pans. Maybe, GramaCindy, with all your "to-dos" you could get by this year without putting a pan gasket on?

It's not so much to keep the smoke in but the keep the cold air out. Look at the bottom of your pans after a boil. Anywhere you have a leak along the rail you will see the pan has no soot. That cool air is cooling off the bottom of the pan.

Jason

[Brent]

There are lots of things that can effect the need for a gasket. The height of your stack can effect natural draft.

The wind on any given day. If you have a door on the windward or downwind side can increase or decrease the pressure inside and cause back drafting ... when the door is open, which is 95% of the time for us to get wood.

The fit of the pan on the arch. Some aren't welded to straight on the top rails etc etc. And then if you have two pans you need something between them.

[Haynes Forest Products]

You do need it if your using oil. The pressure from the forced air burner will blow soot out.

[GramaCindy]

This thread has got me thinking - what's the actual purpose/benefit of the pan gasket? I don't use one, and don't seem to have any problems with smoke leakage around the pans. Maybe, GramaCindy, with all your "to-dos" you could get by this year without putting a pan gasket on?

With it just going to be set on the rail and the pan set on top, I think it won't be too difficult! I won't be adhering it to the arch after all. Thanks everyone.

[Swingpure]

I have next to no space between my concrete blocks and the pans. If I was to buy a ceramic blanket and cut it into strips, where exactly would it go?
22552

[buckeye gold]

buy a roll of rail gasket. It pulls apart in layers pretty easily, giving you thinner strips

[Swingpure]

buy a roll of rail gasket. It pulls apart in layers pretty easily, giving you thinner strips

Thanks, I am trying to find a Canadian supplier of the rail gasket material. I have sent an email to my local CDL store and I am searching on line.