Food Grade Sealant/Caulking

[Amber Gold]

My bulk tank has 5-10 pin hole leaks in the bottom. I tried soldering them this morning, but the solder wouldn't stick to the tank so I'm considering some kind food grade sealant or caulking to seal off the holes. Any ideas?

Grainger sells this which is FDA approved, but for indirect contact only. I didn't find anything else from them.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/TITEBOND-Silicone-Sealant-2GXT4?Pid=search

Thanks

[3rdgen.maple]

Josh been down that road in the past and let me save you the aggrevation. The caulk/sealant/silicone whatever you want to call it will get all soft and eventually leech back into your sap. I had a seem on a tank that I put the stuff on. Was white when wet and clear when dried. After a couple days with sap in the tank I noticed it starting to turn white again and when I emptied the tank the sap had a white milky color to it. Tank went down the road, it was galvanized and Im sure lead solder anyways.

[Amber Gold]

OK. Then what can I use to fix the holes. The solder wouldn't stick to the tank...guessing because of the size and taking all the heat?? Is there something I can do differently with the soldering?

[jfroe939]

Obviously my recommendation isn't a longterm fix if even a short one... but, would some really nice (not the el-cheapo stuff) duct tape work? Is it called gorilla tape or something? I know duct tape isn't made to contain liquid necessarily, but maybe? Really press down on it make a tight seal on a really dry and clean surface. Consider it a patch and go around a much larger area that just the hole itself. I'm not calling this next one to be fda compliant either but would shoo-goo work? There's gotta be something like this that would suffice even if just for this year. Consider asking a plumber what they might use. If I were to apply something or another, I think I'd be sure to apply just as much to the inside as to the outside of the tank in hopes that the inner stuff has something to grab onto on the outside and keep it from shifting during the year due to sap sloshing motion ?!?? Or maybe put a nice bead of clear silicone caulk down first then let it dry 2 days and follow up with that nice duct tape? I'm really just reaching here I guess.

[Farmboy]

A food grade solution would be weld it or have someone you know weld it. Welding is food grade and it wont leach into your sap. Tig welding is the best but someone who is good with a mig could so it. Stick welding is out of the question. My dads friend who is amazing with a tig welder welded a half dozen pin holes in my english tin flue pan. Just a warning english tin is one of the hardest metals to weld but im pretty sure your talking about a stainless steel bulk tank.

[Acer]

Rockys hardware concord has food grade silicone. check the label on the squeeze tube clear silicone rtv.

[RileySugarbush]

If the pin holes are not on a seam, try a small sheet metal screw with a rubber washer. I actually fixed a gas tank on a Corvair that way when I was a kid.

[benchmark]

How about brazing the holes shut? Not sure if your tank is ss or galv. I had several galv sap buckets that had pin holes in them and brazed the holes shut. Never did end up using them though, but it did work.

[maplwrks]

Josh---You could try a dab of JB Weld on each hole. I have used this on tanks in the past.

[Slatebelt*Pa*Tapper]

food grade sealant/caulk in different colors available here

http://www.emisupply.com/catalog/su5005-rtv-food-grade-silicone-clear-103oz-cartridge-p-2283.html

[Amber Gold]

I'm actually using duct tap now and it's working great...would like to find a permanent solution though. If I knew someone with a portable welder, I'd have them come over.

What is JB Weld? Is it an epoxy? Is it safe for contact with food? I'd seal the holes from the inside of the tank. If there is no issue with contact with food, I'll probably go this route.

The pin holes are not on a seam and a screw w/ rubber gasket is another good solution.

Thanks for the ideas.

[maplecrest]

josh for the price of ss scrap, you would be better off getting a different tank. duck tape thru season and find a new tank. if you have pin holes now it will only get more.this tank will nickel and dime you to the crazy house instead of the sugar house

[morningstarfarm]

Ialways keep a stick of atwood epoxy in the shack...its a 2 part epoxy made for boats and will stick underwater...on a hole last season just mashed it together to make the paste and stuck her on..sealed instantly and lasted me out the season...now this isnt an ideal solution, but in a pinch it will keep the sap in your tank..oh and this hole I patched was from a kid throwing a hammer and was about 1/4"..still it worked...now I wouldnt be without it..cost like 12 bucks a wally world in the boat aisle...:D

[sniperdodo]

JB Weld epoxy does have an FDA approved product called "JB Weld Waterweld" check out the link
http://jbweld.net/products/water.php
Should be available most any hardware stores and costs less than $10

[3rdgen.maple]

Amber you could also make a gasket out of a rubber innertube or whatever and a peice of ss sheet metal and put the rubber between the tank and peice of sheetmetal and bolt or rivet it over the holes. It will seal it up good. Also an option and Im not sure on the food grade aspect of it but if you look in the gardening section at lowes or HD near the pond supplies there is a rubber patch that comes in a roll like 6"x10' that sticks to just about anything. I have used it to seal up a ss pond filter tank that froze and split a few years ago and it is still working. It is all rubber on the outside with some sticky material on the inside.

[Amber Gold]

Jeff, if I get a new woods I'm looking at for expansion next season, I'll be getting a new storage tank at the SH.