Homemade 2x4 evaporator question

[carlsonr]

I have everything but the brick laying and the door left of my 2x4 evaporator. The front side is 2'x3 1/2', wide open, and in need of a front door and ash tray door. I am thinking of using 1/2 inch steel and cutting out the doors. (Too thick? Too thin?)

1. How big should it be? Is a bigger door better to get your wood in easier? Or does it let out too much heat?
2. Any suggestions for homemade hinges/door latch?
3. Does the door need to be insulated?
4. Do I need a vent?
5. Does the door need to be firebricked?
6. Any suggestions for firebricking?

[Gary R]

1/2" is plenty thick. 3/8" might be better. Or, buy a cast iron door from Vogelsgan(SP?). They have vents and ash door. You should have vents in or under the door. Insulating the door is best but not needed. To insulate, use ceramic blanket. Drill a couple of hole in the door and use SS nuts, bolts and fender washers to hold the blanket on.

[user587]

I just finished my homeade arch (see link below). I used 3/8 plate, it seems about right. I would definitely recommend insulating both the door and the front around the door. I can only imagine how hot it would be without insulation.


(http://s1103.photobucket.com/albums/g478/user587/Arch%20Construction/

[Ausable]

I have everything but the brick laying and the door left of my 2x4 evaporator. The front side is 2'x3 1/2', wide open, and in need of a front door and ash tray door. I am thinking of using 1/2 inch steel and cutting out the doors. (Too thick? Too thin?)

1. How big should it be? Is a bigger door better to get your wood in easier? Or does it let out too much heat?
2. Any suggestions for homemade hinges/door latch?
3. Does the door need to be insulated?
4. Do I need a vent?
5. Does the door need to be firebricked?
6. Any suggestions for firebricking?

Howdy -- Gary R gave good advice. I have an old Vogelzang barrel kit door on my homemade 2'x5'. If You use sheet steel for a door 1/8' to 1/4" is plenty. For hinges on a homemade door - large door hinges work fine - either weld or drill and bolt to door and evaporator. A little improvising makes a hinge and latch. If natural draft - insulating door not necessary - but - if forced air used - a good idea.
Here is the thing - If You use natural draft to support combustion - air going in thru an open ash clean out door is ok - chance are you will need all the air you can get.
BUT - If you have forced draft - that provides your combustion air - and your rig will be under pressure and to keep from having a smoke filled sugar shack you have to be air tight. -- big difference between the two - but - either mode of operation is fine and works.
On my old rig - a 55 gallon steel drum - had sand on the botton and laid firebrick up the sides and back.
On my new rig - a 250 gallon fuel oil tank -- still have sand on the bottom - but my Grandson welded support standoffs with heavy screening and the firebrick goes between the screening and the inside tank walls and so far works fine. -- Hope I didn't confuse and helped you some --- Mike

[carlsonr]

what thickness of blanket would you use?

[Gary R]

I would use 1". It comes 1/2', 1" and 2". Also 4#, 6# and 8# per square inch density. Then there is 2300 and 2600 degree. I used 8#, 2300 degree.

Now you know how confused I was a couple of years ago:D