crackher
02-14-2011, 10:27 AM
Hey Everyone!
I have spent the last couple weeks reading and reading on the board. I finally grabbed this evaporator and pans for a wicked deal. now I would like to ask a couple questions
first here is the setup
1) It is a 3x10 arch all bricked "Lighenting"
2) Behind the brick is fireproof insulation
3) I have three English Tin pans (see the pic) all have dividers running perpendicular to the length of the arch with little triangles cut out of the corner (one per divider), for sap flow flat bottoms
4) The arch is dead level as are the pan ontop the arch
5) There is approx 3/8 underneath the pans to where the "baffles" deflect the flames
6) The stack is 14" Glav ~13' above the roof PLUS the adaptor. Total stack height probably 19' from the top of the arch
7) Hardwood fired
Questions.
Yesterday I flooded the pans with hot water to about 2" of water across the entire arch (all pans). after a little bit the front (by the doors) pan was boiling fiercely but the middle pan was steaming, and the back pan was not doing anything. It is my understanding that the back pan is where the boiling really occurs? Is this because I need more space between the pans and the bricks along the bottom of the arch for the flames to pass. It was a windy day so there should be enought draft from the 14" Stack?
A) What should the gap be between the pans and the sand/bricks along the bottom of the arch? I think 3/8" is a little too smal.
B) I read all over this board about reversing flow? Fro this setup do I have to physically turn my pans (back pan only)?
C) The pipe/valves that connect the front and middle pans together forms a water trap (the 90 faces down another faces over) is this the way it is supposed to be
Pictures are here:
http://s887.photobucket.com/albums/ac72/crackher999/Maple%20Syrup/
I have spent the last couple weeks reading and reading on the board. I finally grabbed this evaporator and pans for a wicked deal. now I would like to ask a couple questions
first here is the setup
1) It is a 3x10 arch all bricked "Lighenting"
2) Behind the brick is fireproof insulation
3) I have three English Tin pans (see the pic) all have dividers running perpendicular to the length of the arch with little triangles cut out of the corner (one per divider), for sap flow flat bottoms
4) The arch is dead level as are the pan ontop the arch
5) There is approx 3/8 underneath the pans to where the "baffles" deflect the flames
6) The stack is 14" Glav ~13' above the roof PLUS the adaptor. Total stack height probably 19' from the top of the arch
7) Hardwood fired
Questions.
Yesterday I flooded the pans with hot water to about 2" of water across the entire arch (all pans). after a little bit the front (by the doors) pan was boiling fiercely but the middle pan was steaming, and the back pan was not doing anything. It is my understanding that the back pan is where the boiling really occurs? Is this because I need more space between the pans and the bricks along the bottom of the arch for the flames to pass. It was a windy day so there should be enought draft from the 14" Stack?
A) What should the gap be between the pans and the sand/bricks along the bottom of the arch? I think 3/8" is a little too smal.
B) I read all over this board about reversing flow? Fro this setup do I have to physically turn my pans (back pan only)?
C) The pipe/valves that connect the front and middle pans together forms a water trap (the 90 faces down another faces over) is this the way it is supposed to be
Pictures are here:
http://s887.photobucket.com/albums/ac72/crackher999/Maple%20Syrup/