Made the Jump to Litespeed now I need help

[crackher]

Hey Everyone!

I have spent the last couple weeks reading and reading on the board. I finally grabbed this evaporator and pans for a wicked deal. now I would like to ask a couple questions

first here is the setup

1) It is a 3x10 arch all bricked "Lighenting"
2) Behind the brick is fireproof insulation
3) I have three English Tin pans (see the pic) all have dividers running perpendicular to the length of the arch with little triangles cut out of the corner (one per divider), for sap flow flat bottoms
4) The arch is dead level as are the pan ontop the arch
5) There is approx 3/8 underneath the pans to where the "baffles" deflect the flames
6) The stack is 14" Glav ~13' above the roof PLUS the adaptor. Total stack height probably 19' from the top of the arch
7) Hardwood fired

Questions.
Yesterday I flooded the pans with hot water to about 2" of water across the entire arch (all pans). after a little bit the front (by the doors) pan was boiling fiercely but the middle pan was steaming, and the back pan was not doing anything. It is my understanding that the back pan is where the boiling really occurs? Is this because I need more space between the pans and the bricks along the bottom of the arch for the flames to pass. It was a windy day so there should be enought draft from the 14" Stack?

A) What should the gap be between the pans and the sand/bricks along the bottom of the arch? I think 3/8" is a little too smal.
B) I read all over this board about reversing flow? Fro this setup do I have to physically turn my pans (back pan only)?
C) The pipe/valves that connect the front and middle pans together forms a water trap (the 90 faces down another faces over) is this the way it is supposed to be

Pictures are here:
http://s887.photobucket.com/albums/ac72/crackher999/Maple%20Syrup/

[Sugarmaker]

crackher,
Sounds like you have the correct set up, and test boils help understand new systems. Nice to be level! stack height is correct at 2 x the length of the pans. Stack dia. is right on for wood.
You may need to boil hard for 30 min to 1 hour to get the boil in all areas. Yes the back pan does the hard boiling.
I would not worry too much about the gap between the pans. But you can tighten this up with fire proof soft pan gasket materials on the market. White cotton type looking material.
The gap under the rear pan (flues) sounds about right too.
I am not familiar with the lighting model and the three pans but usually you dont have to remove the rear pan to change sides. Now if you have crossflow front pans then you might have to change those?
Sorry I could not look at your pictures today since they are blocked at my work. But not sure about the sap trap thing from rear to middle pan?? Humm. Someone on here will help!
Regards,
Chris

[NH Maplemaker]

crackher, Just looked at your pictures!! If that was all the fire you had going then that may explain why your back pan was not rolling! I know you said test boil. But you will need a lot more fire than that to make your evaporator go to lite speed!! Also make sure you have replacement liquid going in as you are boiling out! Your liquid (sap/water) will go down vary quickly at a rolling boil. Jim L.

[crackher]

That was taken pretty early on i had a significant amount of wood in there. Like I said that water was hot when I put it in but it was going fairly good for around 45mins. so maybe I should have stoaked it further and for much longer. Any ideas on the trap between the front and middle pans

[michiganfarmer2]

I agree. not nearly enough fire

[michiganfarmer2]

...and I dont know what those baffles are for under the flue pan. my 3x12 doesnt have... OH WAIT, you have a raised flue. dontcha? ok. nevermind

[crackher]

...and I dont know what those baffles are for under the flue pan. my 3x12 doesnt have... OH WAIT, you have a raised flue. dontcha? ok. nevermind

Nope I do not have a raised flue...these are flat pans. I supected that the baffles were there to deflect the flames along the bottom of the pan

[jasonl6]

Another reason it's not boiling as hard back there is because the flue pans are what really kick it into high gear. Your rear pans are flat!

Jason

[mapleack]

Your arch was made for a raised flue pan, which simply put is open underneath to allow the fire to sweep up through then back down to go up the stack. By putting flat pans over this area you do not have enough space for the fire and hot gases to make it to the stack. If you are going to use these flat pans you need to change your bricking to allow more like 1.5 inches under the rear pans.

[3rdgen.maple]

Once you get the hang of firing it and boiling some sweet in it you will see a difference. My old rig had the baffle in it as well and it worked best if it was not closed all the way. When closed it kept all the heat up front and back pan never boiled hard. Lowered it and made a world of difference. Once you get the evap heated up and 2/3 to 3/4 full of wood and fire every 5 to 10 minutes, open one door throw wood in then the other. If you have to put alot of wood in at once you let it burn down to much. Also somewhat stagger your wood so the flames and air can get between the peices. And when you say there is only 3/8 between the bottom of the pan and the bed of the arch are you saying that from the ramp back that is all there is? If so I personally think that is killing your draft. You have to remember it is that tight on a flue pan but between the flues there is those gaps for the heat to get into. I would have a larger gap than 3/8 under the pan to let it breath more.

[crackher]

Thanks Guys,

I am going to rework the back of the arch this week and I will fire her up again. this time I will run it for around 2 hours to see if I can get another (more favourable result).
Anyone have an idea of the "Trap". I have looked around and I cannot seem to find anything on it. Instead of the two 90 elbows facing eachother and connected by a piece of hose they drop down and then up again (forming a "U") this happens only between the middle and front pans

[Sugarmaker]

Gap under the pans should be at least the same area as he stack.
I still dont know about the drop down attachment features. I have never seen that system?
Chris