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Logan Cabin
02-09-2011, 01:04 PM
Hi all,

Here are some shots of the file cabinet arch I just built. Credit the idea to HAHA I 1, who mentions using filing cabinet in his signature. I had access to a legal-sized cabinet that was destined for metal recycling and decided to give it a shot. Dimensions are 5' long, 18" wide, 28" deep.

I placed the "front, drawer (open) side" on the ground. Cut openings on the "back side" for the four steam table pans (12" X 14" X 6", gives me about 4.6 sq. ft. of surface area). Cut opening on the "top" for the fire box door, and the "bottom" for the stack.

Bought a barrel-to-wood-stove conversion kit for the fire door & damper. The damper was curved to fit a barrel, but the sheet metal of the cabinet bent nicely to fit as it was bolted on. Cast grate on the bottom, 30 firebricks and 4 feet of stack.

Lined the sides with ceramic blanket a potter friend gave me. Put galvanized sheet inside to hold the blanket in place. Will have to improve on that, as the sheet metal warped quite a bit. Just read a post about using a hardener on the ceramic blanket, may try that next.

I've fiddled with the firebrick setup leading to the stack to try to get a better boil on the back pan, with not much luck so far. It's obviously a narrow firebox, so I may try to get a longer, narrower grate setup and just use longer pieces of wood in an effort to get more heat on the back pans. Hooked up a shop-vac blower port to blast some air into the firebox.

On the first two boils I was evaporating about 3 gallons per hour. Hoping for four-plus if I can get the back pan to go. I was working alone as well, next time should have a helper to assist in keeping track of it all.

Thanks again to all for the shared knowledge!

Mike




http://gallery.me.com/midasglass#100078

peckfarm
02-09-2011, 01:31 PM
Brilliant. Fantastic job.
How high is the back of the fire box? Is it possible to get it closer to the pans? If so that would make a big difference on the heat in the back of the rig.

Logan Cabin
02-09-2011, 02:15 PM
Thanks, that's high praise from a Vermonter for a Hoosier! (One of my favorite places to visit, BTW).

Before the test boil, I had simply laid a piece of sheet metal (covered with firebrick) at an angle at the back of the firebox, leading to the stack. Changed that for the first sap boil, putting a block in the back to raise the firebrick. Almost seemed like it didn't boil as well. Other change from test boil to first sap boil was the addition of the blower. Re-arranged the firebrick again from first sap boil to second, but didn't seem any different.

The pans are hanging 6" deep into the firebox, which would lead me to believe that the air entering the stack under the last pan would be plenty close & plenty hot. Only other thought is that the pans don't form an airtight seal and maybe I'm losing heat around the edges instead of getting it to the back of the firebox.

The Butcher
02-09-2011, 04:34 PM
I love this site for posts just like yours!!!!!

Keep at it, you will get it just right...then want to go bigger :D

maple flats
02-09-2011, 05:20 PM
Are you forcing the heat up? In a conventional arch the heat is forced to pass real close to the pans. On my raised flue there is only 1/2" under the flues, the rest of the exhaust must go between the flues. On a flat pan after you leave the fire box you would just leave maybe 1". Your pans are kind of like a drop flue, you should only have about 1/2-1" under them. This makes the heat work for you rather than just go up the stack. I don't think your firebox needs to be very deep, front to back. In my 3x8 I only use 20-21" long wood and it is placed about 5-6" in from the door. You would likely do well with16" or so wood and have the box 22-24" deep. IMHO. Good luck. Neat idea.

TapME
02-09-2011, 05:35 PM
I was looking at the hight of the stove pipe on your rig. It should be 2+ times the lenght of the pans. If they already are then forgive me for bring it up. Other than that what a great evap you have going there. Keep it up there's fun to be had.

Z/MAN
02-09-2011, 07:10 PM
Love it!!!!!!!!!!!!:)

70 Buick
02-09-2011, 07:14 PM
I thought of doing the same thing last year
I move office furniture for a living and throw them out all the time

I was going to try a fireproof file, same size but double walled & filled with cement in between , I still may try one for shiats & giggles one day, I thought the fireproof would keep the outside walls cool

Logan Cabin
02-09-2011, 09:56 PM
Stack was 4' to start with, then I added some rolled up aluminum flashing to add a couple more feet. Will get more at least two feet more of real stove pipe to get'r up to 8 feet. Four 12" pans = 4 feet = 8 feet of stack. Initially I couldn't convince myself that this small unit could need that much stack:)

Will also definitely raise the firebrick to get it closer to the back pans. I had thought the pans might act similarly to a drop flue, I was able to keep a nice boil in the first couple of pans with 4" of sap in them.

Thanks again for all the input!

Logan Cabin
02-09-2011, 10:02 PM
I thought of doing the same thing last year
I move office furniture for a living and throw them out all the time

I was going to try a fireproof file, same size but double walled & filled with cement in between , I still may try one for shiats & giggles one day, I thought the fireproof would keep the outside walls cool

First side I put the ceramic blanket in I only did one layer. Second side I did two layers after being able to think it through a bit. Huge difference in the heat from one side to the next.

How heavy would that fireproof cabinet be? Yikes....that's the one thing I think I will like about this is that I can move it around reasonably well. Eventually would be nice to get a permanent sugarhouse (with real hobby arch) in KY and use this little arch at the local historic site where we tap some trees.

40to1
02-09-2011, 11:28 PM
File this under "C", for clever.

Bucket Head
02-09-2011, 11:43 PM
Somewhere, theres an administrative assistant standing in a room with an armload of files saying "where did the file cabinet go?!"

Nice job on that. Don't know how a fire proof cabinet would work out. If you find one, better have two bowls of Wheaties the morning you go to move it. They are incredibly heavy!

Steve

70 Buick
02-10-2011, 07:06 PM
we move them daily that and real safes

they weigh around 600 lbs LOL, just be sure where you want it !! LOL

sugarmountain
02-10-2011, 07:30 PM
Thats one of the more creative ones i have seen yet. I also like the 2x4 classic set up on a 275 gal. fuel barrel with the entire back left on for a base stack. File cabinet, awesome! Now what else could we use?

Rossell's Sugar Camp
02-11-2011, 09:21 PM
Mine is just concrete blocks and looks ugly. But i get rid of 30 gph :D And if i put the flue pan in i should get 75 gph

Azitizz
02-11-2012, 09:17 PM
This is great. Im trying to scrounge scrap to build up a home-made arch, and I never though about file cabinets. I would have thought they were too thin a gauge, ut of course if its insulated it basically acts as a support for the bricks or whatever insulation your putting in. We definitely have a few of those kicking arround...

Azitizz
02-11-2012, 09:24 PM
Your pans are kind of like a drop flue, you should only have about 1/2-1" under them. This makes the heat work for you rather than just go up the stack.

This is exactly the information Ive been looking for before I start building. I need to start in a day or two as its my window of free time... So the more info I get the better off Ill be. Thanks for this.
However Im surprised at those measurements for the space between the brick and the pan in the arch. Really? so keeping the space at 1" will be enough? My pan is 2' wide and 6' long. I was planning to make the arch angle up from the box thinking the end at the stack would be 3 or 4 Inches. Does the angling really help or could you have it simply flat, perpendicular to the ground?