How to run new lines

[12Fancher]

I am kinda new to making syrup. I currently have 75 buckets but I've caught the bug bad and am working every odd job I can to afford more syrup equipment. My wife thinks the extra money is to buy a new dining room set. Funny funny girl. Anyways, I am interested in running some lines to about 100 new taps. I don't have vacuum at this point but have been advised to still strive for 5 even thou I am going to use gravity untill I can but a vaccum. The question I have is if I ever decide to go to a wet line/dry line system which at this point I know nothing about but I heard alot about it at Verona and Letchworth schools I attended. Do I need to do anything special at this point to make it easier to transition to a wet/dry at a later date? Is a wet line/dry line even necessary on 100 taps? Hopefully someone can shed some light because I am heading to the woods next weekend to start running my lines. Thank you

[farmall h]

100 taps should not require a wet/dry line. I would recommend running a 3/4 mainline and run 5/16 tubing striving for 15 taps per lateral. This way you will have some natural vacuum. it is very easy to switch to vacuum with only 100 taps. Just don't tell the wife.;)

[maple flats]

I agree, 100 taps does not warrant wet/dry. IF and only IF you have good slope put about 15 taps or even slightly more per lateral. When you get vac, reduce to 5 if you can. That is what I was doing all day. I had run an extra branch line because I now have vacuum and I reduced the taps to fewer, trying for 5 but actually I got a range of 3-7 depending on the circumstances at each section. This branch line, about 100 taps on 3/4" line, on vacuum is about 640' long and it feeds into the main line that is wet /dry. I have other branches of about 60 to 150 taps that each empty into the same wet/dry line and then to the 1000 gal vacuum sap tank. All branches go into the wet/dry except one that goes straight to the tank.
On yours, good elevation drop gives natural vacuum when the lateral fills with sap, flat landers should run more like the 5 tap rate because they can't generate natural vacuum.

[12Fancher]

Thanks for responding, I appreciate your help. One further question thou if I plan on adding vacuum next season so I am only going to use gravity this season is it ok to just run 5 taps per lateral. It seems like alot of extra money to run my laterals this year at 15 then have to redo them all next season at 5. It seem like I will be tearing down alot of lines next year and redoing everthing. I have pretty decent pitch on my property so thats not a real issue. Maybe I'm not thinking this thru and it's not a huge deal to take a lateral line from 15 to 5 as it seems like alot of people have probrably done it since vacuum was only intruduced in the last few years. Please let me know if I am missing something and with the right splices etc, nothing really gets wasted when switching from 15 to 5 or if I shoudl do everything as 5 this year. Thanks

[Thompson's Tree Farm]

Just do them at 5 or less this year.

[maple flats]

Yes, It's OK, but you will get a little less sap this year but far more next and every year you have vacuum, assuming comperable seasons. The natural vacuum won't be there to help. You might be able to do what I did too, I ran about 10-12 taps on gravity and this year I split it, ran an extra branch across the hill and re did the lines by cutting the old lateral where the branch intersected the branch and connecting, and then going down hill to the next tap and making that an end of line tree (end ring).

[farmall h]

Go with the plan of 5 or so taps per lateral....certainly a step above buckets. You will not notice a big difference. Except you won't have to empty the buckets!:)

[ADKMAPLE]

This thread is right up my alley since i am thinking about starting out with tubing rather than my original plan of sap sacks. I ahve a pretty decent slope behind my house. I have mapped out where I think that my 3/4" 30P mainline should go, which is at the near bottom of the hill, running parallel and to my future sugarhouse. THe line will be 500'. From the line, I plan on putting in a dozen or so 30P laterals. THe laterals would basically g ostraight up the hill. the hill is not soo steep that you cant walk it but is steep enough. I was figuring on only adding 5-7 taps per lateral, with each lateral being 100' or so long. However, now I am learning that the more taps per lateral if you have slope the better you will be if you do not plan on adding vacume. So how many taps can I put on a 100' lateral with gravity. To give you some idea, my 500' mailine will slope 92' in elevation from one end to the other.

[Randy Brutkoski]

If not running vacuum, with your slope you are probably going to want about 20 taps per lat. Some poeple run even more. But that is a safe number.

[Sugarmaker]

Currently using short run tubing "sets" consisting of 12 to 20 taps some may be 100 feet in length. We have about 500 taps on these. Using Leader 30P plus some CDL fittings for the wrap around the end trees.
Chris

[adk1]

why do you say that your 100' laterals are short runs. I thought that 100' was the make you should have for a lateral

[twofer]

why do you say that your 100' laterals are short runs. I thought that 100' was the make you should have for a lateral

I believe it is because you're talking about a gravity setup. When working with gravity it is better to have longer runs so you have a larger column of sap providing more natural vacuum to the taps.

On vacuum you're supposed to keep the laterals under 100'.

[adk1]

ok. another question for all of you pro's out there. Does it matter how many laterals you bring off of a mainline for a gravity system. I can just imagine trying to hi every tree with a tap but not being able to reach with the drops. OR should you add a T to the lateral? IS there a specific space requirement between splicing in T's in the mainline? Lastly, as I understand it, the 100' maximum length for a lateral deals with vac systems, is there a length standard for a lateral on gravity? I have not found one, just that you shouldnt really go over 20 taps on each lateral on gravity?

[3rdgen.maple]

adk1 you should note that these are guidlines and good ones its just sometimes it cannot be acheived and we have to make do with what we have for layout of the land. I personally wouldnt be splicing in any T's in the mainline I would be using saddles and then using Y's and T's on the laterals. In alot of cases it just doesnt work out to have one single lateral to reach 20 taps on it so you stick a Y somewhere along that lateral and add a second lateral to it to get the count up and then connect that main lateral with the splices on it to the saddle in the mainline. For vac it is all a different ballgame. Confusing I know and the worst part is you either end up ordering more connectors and tubing then you need or you are way short on it all. Once you start the setup it will all start to make sense.

[adk1]

erdgen, thanks for the comments. Yeah, I meant to say saddles, I wont install a T in the mainline to run a lateral. But I think your right, the best thing to do is to get the basics down and then once you start installing it will start to make sence.

[twofer]

erdgen, thanks for the comments. Yeah, I meant to say saddles, I wont install a T in the mainline to run a lateral. But I think your right, the best thing to do is to get the basics down and then once you start installing it will start to make sence.

This was my first year running tubing and I have to say that I read, read, and read some more and it made sense but it became real clear when I was putting up.

You're killing me with curiosity. You have a building, you have the trees, heck you've even posted on here a couple hundred times so you apparently have the bug, what's stopping you from making syrup?

[3rdgen.maple]

This was my first year running tubing and I have to say that I read, read, and read some more and it made sense but it became real clear when I was putting up.

You're killing me with curiosity. You have a building, you have the trees, heck you've even posted on here a couple hundred times so you apparently have the bug, what's stopping you from making syrup?

From reading his past post what Im gathering is he is planning and saving to do it right the first time. He seems to question alot of stuff and I think that is very good. Like the old saying goes do it right or dont do it at all. Thumbs up ADK. I had to laugh because at myself when I first started putting up my tubing. I planned I mapped I counted and counted again. I got myself so confused I said the hell with it I will start by ordering 200 of each taps, ys and T"s then ordered 100 each of the saddles and end line slides. Needless to say I have some left overs for next years setup. I threw everything I thought I had figured out prehand and just went with it. Worked out pretty good.

[adk1]

twofer and 3rdgen, well, your both right. I am a planner by profession so I tend to pre-plan everything under the sun. I also have stated a few times that I am not one to build an arch and boil outdoors in the snowbank. I like to have things done right and that is half the fun for me. Not saying that there is anything worng with really roughing it but that is just not my idea of it all. If I wasent already assisting a local producer making syrup, then I might feel differently. The producer that I assist taps around 400 taps and could easily tap 2000 of they wanted to. They run a 2x6 on gravity tubing. It is fun and I have learned alot but its still not like making your own syrup in your own operation and that my friends is what I intend to to someday.

[twofer]

Like I said I was just curious and I'm glad to hear it's just preparation that is holding you back.

[adk1]

I was just walking (in above knee deep snow) in my future sugarbush, if you can call it that. Anywyas, I will trying to eyeball where the laterals should go trying to line up wiht the scattered maples that I do have. My question is, is it ok to have a bend in a lateral as long as you maintain your slope? Cause I will definatl need to have a few of them in each line to pickup adjacent trees that are like 5-6' away from where I think the line should go. thoughts or suggestions?

[maple flats]

Yes, laterals zig zag back and forth. Just try to plan it for the greatest efficiency. Often times people go back and forth so much they actually use more tubing than if they had 2 laterals. just try to keep them as steep as possible. Any main line or branch line should be between 1-5% slope withe the ideal at 2-3% slope, but laterals work best with as much slope as you can get.

[Ridgeland Farm]

If your going to go to vacuum next year I would deff. strive for 5 or even less. Next year I will be reworking my woods to have 3 or less. I dont think the minimal gain in sap by having long lats. would be greater than the cost to do so. especially when the weather has such a great effect of gravity setups, much more than vacuum setups. With a season like last year it wouldnt have mattered how long your lines were, if you didnt have vacuum you didnt have a good year last year... for the most part. I know there will be some people out there on gravity that had a good year. but not many. JMO!

[adk1]

mapleflats, I thought that on a gravity setup even the mainline %slope didnt matter? Well my situiation is that I will be lucky to get 5 maples on a 100' lateral the way that they are spread out and there is no way that I can do it without zigzagging through the woods. which brings me to my second question, how do you attach a lateral to the tree and then zig or zag to another tree pulling it tight. cant rely just on the tap holding it.

[Thompson's Tree Farm]

Go around the tre

[adk1]

I thought you only went around the tree at the very end. What I meant was going from tree to tree in the middle of the line. Or are you referring to going to the left of one tree then to another and going to the right side of that tree etc?

[foursapssyrup]

Or are you referring to going to the left of one tree then to another and going to the right side of that tree etc?

thats the way we do it. we have a starting loop at the first tree, and go on the left of the next, and the right of the next, and so on untill we reach our main line, or ending point, then we loop it around the last tree with an outlet into our collection tank, or tie it into the mainline. remember to make sure your tubing is fully seated on your connectors, and don't be afraid to pull on it to tighten it.

[adk1]

ok, so now that i have that figued out, do you run the laterals fro mthe mainline with a saddle fitting to the last tree, loop around and then do you insert the t's at each tree along the lateral? If is there some other fitting that you can use for each tap to the lateral???

[sapsick]

i stood at my mainline planned aroute. grabbed the tail and took off while my father in law kept it from knottin up. got to the last tree and looped it with an endring fitting then backed tracked my route pulling out the the slack and when i got back to the mainline pulled for all i worth. you will be suprised at the stretch in the 30p cut the line a few inches short of the mainline and made the connection. its been stretching for a week now and i have to go back now and cut in my tees.
One thing is for sure the best laid plans of mice and men soon dissappear when you are standing there with that 30p at your feet trying to figure out which way you were "gonna go". good luck

[adk1]

ok sapsick, so you basically go the other way, from an end tree back to your mainline, zig zagging as you need to. then you pull tight and cut the lateral a tad short of the mainline..hmm. I will be using the Leader fittings that attache to the mainline, then you form a loop and then it connects into the saddle. I sonder if these are adjustable.

[farmall h]

adk1, for your end tree I hope you purchased some endrings or dead end tees to anchor your laterals. Don't rely on the spout to hold your lateral! Good luck. I think we all learned the hard way.;)

[Ridgeland Farm]

No I think he is saying he goes from the mainline which is what I do and what I would recommend. It's much easier to plan out a path from the mainline rather than from the tree to the mainline. when you start from the mainline you make it easier to stop anywere if you feel your line is getting to long. If you start from an end tree you can get yourself in trouble quick! I have a spool I hang on the mainline and then got to my trees trying to stay as straight as possible.

[farmall h]

Oh absolutely..always start at the mainline. I hook it and head out!:)

[lpakiz]

Yep, me too. Put the spool near the mainline. Don't cut yet!! String out laterals from the mainline to the end tree. Fasten to end tree and work back to mainline, tightening and adjusting height as you go. When you return to the mainline, stretch good and cut. Have the tubing tool ready to insert the hook connector. After the hooked connector is installed, hook it onto the mainline and move the spool on to next lateral. I used a can of flourescent paint to put a daub of paint on each maple tree, facing the mainline. Made it real easy to see, from the mainline, which trees fit the best on each lateral. I cut in the drops and the saddles later--two more separate operations for me. Just how I did it anyway.....

[jimsudz]

When you cut in your drops do put on back side of tree or front side (down hill)?

[Thompson's Tree Farm]

It does not matter whether the spouts are on the uphill or downhill side of the tree. I do look for obvious defects that might limit where I could drill and position where I can reach the most good wood.

[sapsick]

yes these guys are correct. i should have made it clearer. start at the main line and head out. for all the reasons...

[crackher]

ADK that pretty much sums up the question I was going to write almost the tee. I hope you get an answer on that one soon.
I find the hardest part in installing these lines is to gather the information for the people in the know so we can tracnsfer that knowledge to the ground, without making too many mistakes

[jfroe939]

I'm new to vacuum. What is the reason for running only around 5 taps per lateral on vacuum? What's the limiting factor that makes 15 per lateral too many? Might sound dumb but does that mean vacuum pulls so much sap out at peak flow that 15 trees' sap is too much to fit down the tube or what's the reason? I'm sure it's a simple reason it's just not obvious to me. thanks!

[3rdgen.maple]

Laterals will fill up with sap and not allow any vac transfer to the trees or not as much. Strive for 5 will get more vac to the trees.

[adk1]

Basically, from what I ahve learned, the sap level in the lateral should not exceed 1/3 of the diameter of the 5/16" line. there needs to be space for suction/air in the line as well going to the tree/tap. The more taps on the lateral, the more sap and the greater the chance that there will be less open/airspace in the line. Also need to pay attention to the slope too for that same reason. When the sap were to get to a low spot, it might fill up the entire line in just that spot eliminating the airspace in the line and not allowing suction back to the taps in the lateral. Did I get it right guys??

[adk1]

Someone mentioned that for running the lateral lines you basically start at the mainline then work your way fromt tree to tree. I would assume that you try to stay somewhat perpendicular to the mainline right? I mean, what is the greatest angel that you can bend to head towards another tree that you wish to tap?

[twofer]

I had couple laterals I ran this year that came off the mainline at ~30°. The problem I ran into was at the angle the hook connector/end line slide fitting wants to twist and come off the wire. Probably not the correct way to go about it but I zip tied the hook connector to the mainline to keep it from coming off.

[adk1]

ok, what I meant was can I got my first tree, then take a 60 degree angle to go aroudn another one, then back say 40 degrees to a third etc. I woudl assume that logic tells me that the more bends the slower the sap will move throught the line. But my trees are in by no means any form of a straight line

[twofer]

Well my reply definitely didn't make any sense. :)

When I ran my lines I tried my best to line the trees up so that there was a limited amount of zig-zagging. There were a few laterals that I did have to zig zag in order to prevent having to run a line to each tree.

[adk1]

and you didnt notice any probelm with the lines that had more zig and more zag?

[SSFLLC]

Keep the laterals heading down hill. Drill your saddles in after you run your laterals.

[ennismaple]

ok, what I meant was can I got my first tree, then take a 60 degree angle to go aroudn another one, then back say 40 degrees to a third etc. I woudl assume that logic tells me that the more bends the slower the sap will move throught the line. But my trees are in by no means any form of a straight line

We have some that zig-zag quite a bit and the sap still runs fine in them. Is it optimal - no, but in some cases it makes more sense than running a separate lateral to pick up 1 tree. Another option is to run a long dropline that's maybe 10' long to the tree that's out of the way to pick it up. Again, this isn't optimal but I've yet to see a sugar bush that is perfectly laid out. Mother Nature put the trees where whe darn well wanted to and didn't consider tubing layout!

[adk1]

hey I like that dropline idea. I think that will be the ticket for me. Also, when should you use the in-line 4 way mainline entrance? Would this be in place of a saddle fitting? Can someone give me an example of when you would use this in-line 4 way entrance fitting?

[Thompson's Tree Farm]

I much prefer saddles to in line fittings. In line fittings create more opportunity for leaks and cause difficulty in keeping the mainline tight and level without sags. If you use any 1/2 inch mainline they are your only choice.

[adk1]

I will difinatly use saddles for sure

[adk1]

Yep, me too. Put the spool near the mainline. Don't cut yet!! String out laterals from the mainline to the end tree. Fasten to end tree and work back to mainline, tightening and adjusting height as you go. When you return to the mainline, stretch good and cut. Have the tubing tool ready to insert the hook connector. After the hooked connector is installed, hook it onto the mainline and move the spool on to next lateral. I used a can of flourescent paint to put a daub of paint on each maple tree, facing the mainline. Made it real easy to see, from the mainline, which trees fit the best on each lateral. I cut in the drops and the saddles later--two more separate operations for me. Just how I did it anyway.....

Ok, I got that part, so you install the "t"s in each lateral once it is tight for each tree right? Also, is that a fitting to allow for multiple tree drops to be installed at the one fitting? i.e. say you have 4 trees that you want to tap in one location rather than having 4 seperate fittings. Just curious

[3rdgen.maple]

Nope 1 T 1 drop. I cut my T's in before I tighten. I also start at the tree and go to the mainline. I look at it this way. If I start at the mainline Then go to farthest tree, go around tree, put Y in then go back and stretch the lateral, install endline hook, attach to saddle and then go back and cut in the T's and drops. HMMM seems like alot of additional walking to me. So I start at the head tree, wrap the tubing around cut in the T and drops, hook the Y to main lateral then proceed to next tree. When last tap is in I go to the mainline stick the end line slide on it , stretch and hook to mainline. NO walking back and forth.

[adk1]

interesting how everyone seems to have their own idea. one fellow seemed pretty insistant to start at the mainline and head to a last tree, then back to mainline, cut it, put on hook connector, etc then go back and do all of your "t's"...Interesting......

[3rdgen.maple]

Yep and next year you will be telling us you started at the middle tree and worked in both directions because you were so confused after reading all these post. I was always told work smarter not harder, just seems smart to me not to run back and forth.

[adk1]

Yep and next year you will be telling us you started at the middle tree and worked in both directions because you were so confused after reading all these post. I was always told work smarter not harder, just seems smart to me not to run back and forth.

Have you ever found that it was a problem going too far past a tree with where you put your T in once you pulled the entire lateral tight to the mainline?

[farmall h]

It all depends on how many taps you are putting up. Also, if you always start at the mainline and head to your first tree you are garranteed to have a 90 degree lateral to mainline. Hook your 5/16 union fitting to the wire (or rapitube strap..which I prefer) and head to your 1st tree, then next (in a weaving pattern of coarse) an so on 'till you get to your last tree. Swing around last tree and snip tubing close to where you think it will be tight once the end ring is installed (I prefer Leader double inlet end ring) and add drop to endring. All this time you have tension on your lateral. Then go back down the line and cut in your drops. I place the tees in the middle of the tree so if you have to tension line alittle in the future the spout will still reach the tree. Then mount your saddle..add 5/16 tubing to saddle & hooked union and your done. Of coarse a two handed tubing tool w/cutter is a must!:) Also I must note that the drops I make in advance while watching Axe Men on the couch.:lol:

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

My 1.5 cents worth is that I start at the farthest tree from the mainline and pull tension on the lateral line as I am unrolling it with the reversing roll every 3 or 4 spools of line off of the roll of tubing and when I get to the mainline it is tight or I pull it tight and then go back and cut in laterals. Seems to me this works easier than starting at the mainline then my laterals will be exactly where I want them and I try to keep them farther from the tree to prevent squirrel damage.

[adk1]

Like I said, everyone seeems to have their own technique. Tell you what, when I start putting mine in, I will do it each way and let you all know! thanks for the ideas!

[adk1]

Well, I finally finished flagging my maples in my so called sugarbush. Then I walked my future mainline and looked up through the woods to get an idea of where my laterals will run. It is very overwhelming to say the least. No way I can run them straight and I might have some long drops to the lateral to hit nearby trees. I just dont see any other way. I also have a mix of red in with the sugars. I will have to watch when they bud and turn and then just pull the tap and cap it or something, I dont really know. My problem will be that I wont have alot of 8" dia trees to run the laterals to without going a long ways. Should be interesting to figure it out when the time comes.

[Yellzee]

this may or may not seem obvious...You can wrap your laterals around other trees than just the maples you are tapping.. in my case I wander in and out of iron wood trees very frequently between the maple trees.. I use a little extra line this way but it is much easier to keep the laterals tight and not sagging. If you have a long run of lateral I don't think it matters how tight you pull it... it will sag on you eventually.

I vote for starting at the main and working to the last tree.. then pulling tight on the way back to the main and cinching it in place. I have debated doing this and then marking all the tee locations.. and then releasing the tension in the line so I can put in all the t's easily without needing the tubing tools... but haven't tried it yet.
One question on the T per tap statement.. if you have a big tree that has 3 taps in it.. I join them together with t's on the tree then run one line down to the lateral T... I wouldn't put 3 t's in the lateral? but maybe that is why everyone else can make their droplines up in the house ahead of time and I can't?

[adk1]

this may or may not seem obvious...You can wrap your laterals around other trees than just the maples you are tapping.. in my case I wander in and out of iron wood trees very frequently between the maple trees.. I use a little extra line this way but it is much easier to keep the laterals tight and not sagging. If you have a long run of lateral I don't think it matters how tight you pull it... it will sag on you eventually.

I vote for starting at the main and working to the last tree.. then pulling tight on the way back to the main and cinching it in place. I have debated doing this and then marking all the tee locations.. and then releasing the tension in the line so I can put in all the t's easily without needing the tubing tools... but haven't tried it yet.
One question on the T per tap statement.. if you have a big tree that has 3 taps in it.. I join them together with t's on the tree then run one line down to the lateral T... I wouldn't put 3 t's in the lateral? but maybe that is why everyone else can make their droplines up in the house ahead of time and I can't?

How can you get away without using one T at each tap/tree? How else will you connect the drop adn tap to the lateral?

[Yellzee]

let's say the tree will take 2 taps.. I will put the line off each tap into a T (prefer a Y actually), and then I'll run a line from that t down to a t on the mainline. Therefore I only need one T in the lateral for 2 taps. It doesn't save any fittings, but it does reduce the number of fittings you have to put in the lateral line.



Another easier way is to put one tap higher on the tree, come off of that to the top of one of the style taps that has a barb at top and bottom, and come off the bottom barb of the lower tap to the lateral.

I am far from an expert on this, it's just one I've done as I've played with my set up in the past few years.

[ennismaple]

let's say the tree will take 2 taps.. I will put the line off each tap into a T (prefer a Y actually), and then I'll run a line from that t down to a t on the mainline. Therefore I only need one T in the lateral for 2 taps. It doesn't save any fittings, but it does reduce the number of fittings you have to put in the lateral line.



Another easier way is to put one tap higher on the tree, come off of that to the top of one of the style taps that has a barb at top and bottom, and come off the bottom barb of the lower tap to the lateral.

I am far from an expert on this, it's just one I've done as I've played with my set up in the past few years.

A novel idea - but I can see the 2nd tap not getting as much vacuum as the first. I'm not sure if the hydraulics is better but it is worth considering...

[Yellzee]

Have to admit I never considered the vacuum affect. it might actually be better.. I'm just using gravity personally.

[Yellzee]

deleted as duplicate

[Yellzee]

a bit of a thread hijack but I had an issue today \i could use help with. when intalling the saddle on the mainline \i could not get the saddle to clamp tight enough. 3/4 blue mainline , single barb fitting saddle that has one set of strap that clamp it on. It was as if the saddle was made for bigger mainline.. but I was told they cover all sizees as the straps pop in different places to shorten them up... I had to shove 2 pieces of the 5/16 line inside the straps under the mainline to get it to clamp tight.

[Typical8]

Yellzee- If it is the single strap saddle they are size specific. The double strap saddles are adjustable 3/4 to 1 1/4

[Sugarbush Ridge]

I'm planning to run my first tubing in 2012. But the trying to stand out there and visualize just how the laterals would be run and or the best routes is mind-boggling to say the least. My 2 cents,,,, I got some 1/4" rope, 10 ft sections, and try running it around the trees as of were the lateral and try different routes. One to maybe see which route might be the shortest and or which would have the best slope. Also see if there are any trees,, non maples,, that really need cutting out of the way. When I feel happy then can put a little paint on trees for when I am will actually be putting up the laterals and then fine tune the slopes. Everybody say,,,, plan,,, plan,, before starting

The woods I bought had just been woods. I'm the first to give thought to manageing it as surar bush. Logged of about 10 years ago so lots of under brush so hard to see just how laterals might look or to be routed.

Only looking to put about 40 to 60 on tubing this time,,,, more later.

[adk1]

I am good at planning, ask anyone :)

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

Get some roll of orange or other bright color tape and mark the trees with it. Only a couple bucks for a big roll of it at Lowes and after you have the trees marked, you can stand below and it will make it a lot easier or get different color rolls to mark different lines.

[Sugarbush Ridge]

My typo,,,, I was meaning 100 foot sections of rope not 10 feet,,, dahhh

[lpakiz]

Yeah, the ribbon will work. I used Flourescent Orange tree marking paint. Just a dot facing the mainline on each maple tree. You can stand at a proposed location for a saddle and see which combination of trees would go best into each lateral. After you get a few done, it will be easier....

[PerryW]

Lots easier to run the tubing before the leaves come out on the trees. Survey flagging works better as it is not so permanent.

[adk1]

I'm planning to run my first tubing in 2012. But the trying to stand out there and visualize just how the laterals would be run and or the best routes is mind-boggling to say the least. My 2 cents,,,, I got some 1/4" rope, 10 ft sections, and try running it around the trees as of were the lateral and try different routes. One to maybe see which route might be the shortest and or which would have the best slope. Also see if there are any trees,, non maples,, that really need cutting out of the way. When I feel happy then can put a little paint on trees for when I am will actually be putting up the laterals and then fine tune the slopes. Everybody say,,,, plan,,, plan,, before starting

The woods I bought had just been woods. I'm the first to give thought to manageing it as surar bush. Logged of about 10 years ago so lots of under brush so hard to see just how laterals might look or to be routed.

Only looking to put about 40 to 60 on tubing this time,,,, more later.

Hey, I am glad that I bought something to the table :)

[adk1]

Curious to know when you would use a 5/16" Y lateral fitting? Can one use these to run a shorter run off the main lateral line to grab another couple trees??

[lakeview maple]

Yep and next year you will be telling us you started at the middle tree and worked in both directions because you were so confused after reading all these post. I was always told work smarter not harder, just seems smart to me not to run back and forth.

Amen Brother