"Stretching" a 2x4 arch into a 2x6

[maple marc]

I have been using a Leader WSE 2x4 for 3 seasons. Bought it when I had 60 taps. Now I'm up to 80 taps, and with really good trees and a good season, I could produce 30 to 40 gallons of syrup this year.

If I could trade my flue pan for the bigger flue pan for a 2x6, then extend my arch....voila.....I could have a 2x6. Apparently I would just extend the flat part of the arch in the back. What do you guys think of this idea? I could raise my boil rate from 17gph to 27gph. I would use the same amount of wood. The pan trade might cost me $600. How much time, effort and money would it take to stretch my arch? Ever seen it done? Materials? Angle iron, galvanized, and more fire brick? I haven't seen a Leader 2x6 WSE, so I can't visualize the reinforcing and bracing.

Many thanks for your thoughts and ideas!

Marc

[OGDENS SUGAR BUSH]

I lengthened mine 2 feet. first removed the stack base and rear legs, weld in angle iron then pop riveted in new sheet metal reinstall stack base, then 1 inch archboard and brick. I did add vertical braces on both sides in the middle of the arch to carry extra weight as i went to a raised flue pan. not really sure if this was necessary. its an easy project

[Haynes Forest Products]

MapleMarc Why not go with a finish pan add on and keep what you have. A 2x2 would be cheaper

[SadSams]

We extended our leader half pint and added another 2'x2' pan that i modified by drilling 36- 3/4'' holes and soldered in copper drop tubes. tripled production. Kinda wish we made it even longer.

[Bruce L]

Hi,did the same thing years ago with my 2X6 Small Brothers unit,added on 2' to the length,just make sure you push your firewall back also,need about 18-20" before the fire is forced up into your flues.Hope this helps,Bruce

[MFarmall]

Marc, have been bouncing your idea around for a few months. Thinking about adding a 6' flue pan. Made my arch and pans so wouldn't be to much of a deal to lengthen it. I made the ramp in my thinking a little long to begin with so should work for the longer pan. Of course with adding the hood and pre-heater last year and seeing the increase in boil rate if I went with a pan addition would have to definately modify the hood and pre-heater for it.
Of course this is on the "if get time to get to" list.
By the way where are you located in central Ohio. I am about 20+ miles south of Columbus. Pickaway Co.
Mel

[maple marc]

Hi Mel,
Same here--if I get time. Sounds like it's a reasonable project. I was talking to the Leader people about it today at the Maple conference. It would probably raise my boil rate by 10gph. For $800....I'll have to think about it. One thing leads to another. Then what about all the extra steam!?!

I am NW of Urbana in Champaign County.

Thanks, Mel and others, for your ideas.
Marc

[3rdgen.maple]

Why in the world would you move your ramp? If your not changing your front pan the new flue pan would still start in the same location therefore the ramp needs to direct the heat up front so it carries through to the back of the arch. If you move the ramp back your putting your flame closer to the back and not entering the flues up front. It will carry through all the way to the stack so my recomendation is to leave the ramp alone.

[MFarmall]

Marc, your about 1 1/4-1 1/2 hours from me. If put the longer pan on, yeah be more steam but get a hood and pre-heater on the pan and will really help your boiling rate. I made my hood and pre-heater from pictures of Brandon's. Pretty easy to make and works like a charm. Hot sap going into the flue pan and hot water to use for rinsing filters or anything else need it for. 3% Solution got me a thermometer that goes in the line from the pre-heater going to the float box to see what the temp is of the sap. Ran from 190-200 degrees last year.
Mel

[WESTVIRGINIAMAPLER]

Who's got a link for a thermometer like Mel mentioned that you can put in the line coming out of the preheater? I have seen them before that fit into a soldered copper fitting. Probably on ebay if I knew what they were called.

[Haynes Forest Products]

Some are called well fittings they are made to thread into a short pipe. They work well with a copper T and a threaded fitting. Mine is about 2.5" long and will have the sap running past the tip.

[MFarmall]

Brandon, check with 3% Solution, I don't remember the name of the thermometer but he got mine at a hardware store in Newport. If want one I'm sure he would pick one up and get it to you. They go in the copper tee you mentioned, easy to put in the line. The thermometer goes in a 3/4" fitting.
Mel

[dano2840]

my buddy just stretched the 2x4 i lent him, it turned out well not a very hard task i think all he had was tin snips and a mig welder

[Flat47]

my buddy just stretched the 2x4 i lent him, it turned out well not a very hard task i think all he had was tin snips and a mig welder

Maybe this is beating a dead horse, but stretching an arch is really easy. You can buy new top rails (they're just angle stock) if you don't have or want to weld on to the existing ones. Then add in new sheet metal to make the arch the length you want. Like danno said above, tin snips will do. Just pop rivet it in place. Making a 2x4 into a 2x6 or 2x8 doesn't change the firebox at all. It's all in the length behind the firebox.