PDA

View Full Version : Soldering leaky buckets



wagnerppw
01-09-2011, 10:21 PM
I just aquired a bunch of buckets that have popped seams and bottoms. Has anyone had experience fixing them with solder? Would I use a torch or soldering iron? What kind of lead free solder, silver-solder or tin-copper??? Shoud I attemt to close up the seam by hammering closed first or just fill it? Any input would be appreciated. Thank you

Matt Hatch
01-09-2011, 11:15 PM
Silver brite works OK but soldering tin is tough. You need to get solering irons for it. Not the elecric ones they might work though the guy a couple towns away has some irons for this type of soldering. You could try a piece of solid stock steel bar rounded off and throw a wood handle on it and get it hot and give it to it. try not to heat the bucket up to much more leaks will occur. (did it on pans oops) I personaly haven't got a ton of experiace with it but have seen it done. I am a plumber / welder and I can tell you any metal will stick better to a clean surface when trying to seal it Good luck let me know how you make out.(you could always put a plastic sap bag in the bucket if they dont hold for a ****.

Thompson's Tree Farm
01-10-2011, 05:33 AM
My soldering experience may not be relevant as it goes back to the day of lead solder but I think some of the basics would be the same. We always left the seam open and filled it all in. Irons work better than flame but I have done it both ways. CLEAN surface!

danno
01-10-2011, 01:02 PM
I've used a torch and the buckets took the solder exceptionally well. It was some of the easiest soldering I've ever done, but I guess it all comes down to the composite of the buckets you're soldering. My holes were in the bottom, so very easy to clean with a wire brush. Clean makes all the differance.

bobbyjake
01-10-2011, 03:52 PM
Chances are they have leaded solder in them already. In which case, using lead solder again is really not an issue. I am a lead-free fan overall, but it is kinda like putting lipstick on a pig here. The trick is going to be getting them hot enough without hurting the galvanizing further. You are going to want to get them back together as good as possible, its solder, not weld, so gaps won't in-fill very well.

Get some good acid and get it clean.

getting started
01-10-2011, 05:49 PM
I fixed some of my leakers with silicone , get the "safe for food contact" kind. Got mine at the local lumber yard, i applied it to the outside of the bucket where the leak was , seem to work well and was lots easier than trying to get solder to stick !

davey
01-10-2011, 07:42 PM
We did the same with tub caulk, cleaned it a litttle and stuck it on. used to fix my horse's water tank that way and it always held up then too, just smear it around good.

Matt Hatch
01-10-2011, 11:19 PM
Goog to know on the food sillicone good idea

3rdgen.maple
01-10-2011, 11:35 PM
safe for food CONTACT is the key word. Been talked about in the past and not recomended for hours of being submersed in sap but heck lead isnt either, atleast not anymore. Oh and before someone says it JB WELD isnt good practice to use in buckets either.