plumbing the Zero tank

[maple flats]

On my Zero vacuum tank, I have 2 lids on the top, one has no holes and the other has 4. I am thinking that I want to run the wet line in one, the dry line in another and the vac from the pump to a third. Is this right or do I need to run the vac into a tee ahead of the tank. My thought is that I would have less chance of sucking sap into the pump doing it my first way. Then I thought I would try to find a coupler with a float ball, so if the tank ever got FULL it would close the float and prevent sap from entering the pump. Any ideas? Any help appreciated. As I understand it, I'll need to cut the vac to pump sap out.

[802maple]

The first part that you said about the 3 lines is the way I would do it. You don't have to shutdown the vacuum to get your sap out though. If you tee in a 1/2 inch line from the pump discharge line back to the fourth hole that will neutralize the vacuum in your pump, you will need a check valve in this line so that sap won't be pumped back into the tank. Just beyond the tee that you put this line on you will need another checkvalve and you will be able to pump with the vacuum on.

[maplehound]

maple flats<
On my zero tanks I run my vaccume line into the hole that contains the dip stick. On my 300 gallon tanks a 1" line fits perfectly on it. I then have a manifold made of 4 or 6" PVC and a 1 1/2 outlet that sets on the hole that has the agitator moter. (use the rubber gromet from the moter to seal the 1 1/2 pipe.) All lines to the woods then enter the manifold through 1" threaded holes on the sides of it. (ends of manifold are sealed with clean outs and ducktape) The only line coming out of my lids (both with 2 holes) is the pump outlet that comes off the 110 volt deep well pump in the bottom of the tank. (the pump is triggered by a float valve) I seal 2 0f the remaining holes with duck tape and plastic bags. The last hole I place a rubber (racket) ball on it. The ball gives me a relief vavle to release that vacuum rather than shutting the pump off each time. It also gives me a good idea if my vacuum is building up properly each time.

[maple flats]

I'm thinking I will run the wet line, dry line and the vac line into one lid. I was thinking I should have a valve with a float ball to choke off the vacuum in cast the tank ever got full, to prevent sap from being sucket into the pump. Will I need to design something or is there something out there ready made?

[maple flats]

802, I'm not sure I follow you. Can you give me a better picture or description?
Dave

[802maple]

I will try. It would be hooked up just like a electric releaser is. A line comes from the discharge or drain on the tank to the pump suction side. on the discharge side of the pump you can tee a 1/2 inch line in just after the discharge line leaves the pump back to your 4th hole in the cover. Then just past the tee'd in line you put in a check valve in the discharge line that will not allow air back into the pump. This will neutralize the pump so that it will prime and it will pump the tank out. I don't have a picture of a electric releaser setup but if someone on here does maybe they would put it on for you. Oh yeah you also need to put a check valve in the 1/2 inch line so that it won't push sap back thru that into the tank. I wish I could explain it better but it is really simple if you were to see it.

[maple connection]

ON one of the pump stations I setup, I took my line from the pump to the tank and ran it up the tree 27 feet and back down to the zero tank that way the vacuum cant suck the sap that high, so there are no worries about getting sap in your pump. Just make sure the regulator is on the pump not the zero tank. worked great for me I was pulling about 18" of vacuum.

[maple flats]

What a great, simple solution. This is foolproof and cheap.
For the doing of it, did you climb the tree and have something to prevent kinking at the top as it bends over the limb, or did you just throw a line up, then pull the pipe over?

[maple connection]

I had an extension ladder that got me half the way. Then there was a branch above me that I threw the line over. This process did take alittle While. I quit counting after the tenth try:lol: Then I just pulled it over It didn't kink for me. It worked well for me.

[maple flats]

I've been thinking What if scenerios. If the tank gets full but sap can still run into the tank, with the tubing running over 100' above the tank elevation, won't the sap seek it's own level, and as soon as the tubing filled up just a few feet, wouldn't the vac pull the sap up over the top? With this scenerio the top of the pipe over the tree would need to be 28'+ above the rising sap level. Am I correct? I'm thinking I need a check valve like the way a wet dry vac works. When the liquid gets to the top, a ball floats up and stops the flow of vacuum. Anyone, correct me if I am wrong.
I would guess the tank will never get 100% full, but I need peace of mind in protecting the pump.

[maple connection]

I think your right Dave, The land I were I was setup was very flat at best we are 8 to 10 feet above the tank with our mainlines. So in your instance I think you would be doing the right thing by using a check valve. I forgot that not everyone has to deal with flat land. Boy I would like some hills)

[maple flats]

My bush with vacuum is all hills and has vacuum. My other bush, at the sugarhouse is real flat (maple flats) and when I add vac there next year it might work. There my highest hill is created by tapping the far side of a 6' rise and using an extension ladder to tap the farthest out lateral. After vac, that will be on a sap ladder and my high point will only be about 5-6' above tank level.

[maplehound]

The best way I have found to protect your pump from sap going to it is to use a inline household water filter. The kind that takes a cartridge. most have an inlet in the middle of the lid and an outlet on the side of the lid. When you hook it into the vacuum line run the pump side to the middle hole. Then instead of a filter cartridge in the canister place a rubber ball (I use racket balls) then when the tank fills up and the sap begins to flow back through your vacuum line it must enter the filter canister first. When the canister fills, the ball rises and shuts off the vacuum before the sap flows to the pump. be sure to add a relief valve or regulator between the filter canister and the pump to protect the pump form over heating due to to high a vacuum when there is no where for it to go.

[maple flats]

Thanks, I might try that. Anyone with other ideas? How crushproof is a racket ball? Is it dependable?

[maplehound]

it doesnt need to be crush proof. When the sap fills the cantainer the ball floats up till it is sucked in to the vacuume hole, thereby shuting off the vacuume. It won't crush it at all. I also use racket balls to seal unused holes in the lids of my zero tanks. they make a great seal and are easily removed to releas the vacuum when you don't want to shut the pump off but want the lid open.

[maple flats]

I think that sounds like the way I want to try it. Thanks.
Dave