View Full Version : Round Up/Spraying Invasives in Winter
peckfarm
12-27-2010, 07:31 PM
Question:
When thinning Beech in the sugar bush in winter, is it possible to treat the stumps with Round Up or should one wait until spring?
gmcooper
12-27-2010, 07:53 PM
I pretty sure it will only work spring/summer and usually on fesh cuts for many species.
Northern Ont. Maple
12-27-2010, 08:42 PM
roundup only works on actively growing plants and different concentrations are needed for different plants.
shane hickey
12-27-2010, 09:32 PM
Yes, round up only kills plants that are growing (spring, summer) as a farmer I can tell you it will take alot of round up to kill beech or any tree. If you buy the cheep stuff ant TSC look at the back it is 8% concentrate. Go to an elevator and it's 36% conentrate, but you have to have a chemical applicator licsence to buy it. Prencep 02 will kill anything that it touches, but for trees I would cover as much as possible and hope for the best. It runs $106 a quart.
shane
maple flats
12-28-2010, 06:35 AM
Yes, not now. In growing season recut stumps and treat. I would not use roundup (but I have a pesticide license). Get a brush killer and read and follow label directions. The method of application must be on the label. If you can not find a label specifying concentrated stump treatment, ask the manufacturer. They often have supplimental labels for less common uses. Also check with your co-operative extension office. They can get you the answer for how you want to do it.
I dare not tell you how, because many state's regs vary.
xyz5150
12-28-2010, 06:42 AM
Tordon rtu will kill them anytime as long as its a fresh cut.
Thad Blaisdell
12-28-2010, 06:49 AM
Go to TSC and get their generic roundup... it is not located in the basic home and garden stuff. You have to go to the place that has the sprayer parts. It is sold in the gallon jug I think it is called Farm Tuf or something like that. It will be right next to the Round Up gallons. Look at the ingredients and they are identical. I use it all the time it kills anything that it touches.... harder stuff gets a higher concentration. But this stuff is only $70 per gallon....or so.
xyz5150
12-28-2010, 07:12 AM
Seventy dollars ! for one gallon? Go to a grain elevator or fertilizer dealer and get some glyphosate (active ingredient in roundup). In Michigan we pay about $30.00 for 2.5 gallons (48% glyphosate). Box stores drive me nuts.
allgreenmaple
12-28-2010, 09:32 AM
Yes, not now. In growing season recut stumps and treat. I would not use roundup (but I have a pesticide license). Get a brush killer and read and follow label directions. The method of application must be on the label. If you can not find a label specifying concentrated stump treatment, ask the manufacturer. They often have supplimental labels for less common uses. Also check with your co-operative extension office. They can get you the answer for how you want to do it.
I dare not tell you how, because many state's regs vary. I think scythe will work. I'm NY licensed, I will have to check that label though..... Roundup okay if it's green it's hitting........:cool:
Thad Blaisdell
12-28-2010, 10:28 AM
Seventy dollars ! for one gallon? Go to a grain elevator or fertilizer dealer and get some glyphosate (active ingredient in roundup). In Michigan we pay about $30.00 for 2.5 gallons (48% glyphosate). Box stores drive me nuts.
2.5 gallons is what I meant. 48% glyphosate is what is in this stuff as well...
xyz5150
12-28-2010, 11:01 AM
Thad,
That sounds better.
peckfarm
12-28-2010, 06:30 PM
I know about concentration issues and consumer vs. licensed purchasing, the question that my public school education did not prepare me to answer is: do freezing temperatures cease synthesis of amino acids and if not is the chemical bond in glyphosate maintained at or slightly above freezing temperatures therefore making winter application possible?
The thought of cutting and then re-cutting in spring to apply herbicide goes against my lazy grain.
Thad Blaisdell
12-28-2010, 08:12 PM
I would not recut again..... wait till it has some new growth and then give'em a dose. Make it a little strong and sit back and watch them wilt.
MASSEY JACK
01-02-2011, 07:52 PM
The best time to kill woody plants is in the fall when the nutrients are going down to the roots. Spring time kill is very difficult as the sap is coming up not down. The people who maintain power line right of ways use the Tordon RTU as was mentioned before. Spray it on the fresh cut stumps.I believe roundup is only meant for green foliage application but I dont have a label around to double check. If you can't use chemicals then the best time to cut a tree you are trying to kill is right after they leaf out. Jack.
moeh1
01-04-2011, 05:53 PM
Cornell had a nice webinar on beech problems - burning the bark as an alternative control solution. I'm trying it this winter on 2 sections. Might be an option for you?
peckfarm
01-04-2011, 07:34 PM
Might be worth a try, the only issue I can see is spending 2-5 minutes at each stump with a 180 m BTU torch vs. 2-3 seconds with a sprayer. 30 stumps an hour with a torch vs the whole sugar bush in 2 hours with a sprayer. $40 for LP vs $80+ for RU.
moeh1
01-19-2011, 08:12 PM
If you want all the beech out RU is the way to go. Stump treatment can travel 50+feet thru the roots and kill other beech, so its efffective. I'm trying to leave a select few ofr diversity and the wildlife, so just burning bark on the ones I want to die. My sugarbush is small, so it will work out for me.
Marty
peckfarm
01-20-2011, 07:55 AM
Are you the one who told me about the RU in the root system at Mapleroma? For sure on the diversity. I keep most larger none blighted beech between 6 inches and 12. Also I keep all standing dead trees that do not pose an immediate threat to my mainlines.
SevenCreeksSap
03-08-2011, 08:03 PM
If you have access to the Tordon you dont actually have to cut the smaller saplings to treat them. I have done the utility maintenance and we would basal treat a lot of brush, even in the winter. The mix had a basal oil in it too. Just treat up to knee height all around the lower bark. The ingredients in the Tordon are soil active so will stay until spring when the tree starts to get active again. Watch the beech though if you dont want to kill them all. I believe the smaller sprouts are often root sprouts and it doesnt take a lot of the Tordon to kill even a larger tree. Dont have much practice with the RU.
Forrest hunters
03-09-2011, 04:02 PM
I bought about 2 - 2.5 gallons of Sure Crop from Family Farm and Home for $40.00. I believe it is 51% Glyposate(major ingredient in RoundUp) and I mix it about 15-20% Glyposate and spray on fresh cut Autumn Olive and Honeysuckle stumps. Did it last fall and have about 1.5 acres to go. Have done about 1.5 acres of almost impassably property. Takes awile but I'm getting there. we shall see this spring how well it worked.
Basically what I did was put it in a spray bottle 1/3 chemical and 2/3 water. It also has a surfactant in it so you do not need anything else in it. I also cut my stumps low and soak the top and move on. If you read anything about Autumn Olive or Honeysuckle this is one of the two recommended chemicals to use.
http://web4.msue.msu.edu/mnfi/education/fieldguide.cfm
The above website has a link to a pdf booklet you can download for free so you can identify and treat invasive species. Has helped me tons.
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