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rjochimsen
12-19-2010, 12:29 PM
First time poster. Unlike a lot of you, I cannot weld nor have any fabricating experience. I did have a few extra $ burning a hole in my pocket and so I purchased a new 3x12 evaporator. It sounded like a neat toy--can burn up to 40% less wood with no soot or cresote buildup.
I've been syruping since 1988 and have had a couple of evaporators but when this evaporator was delivered, the size of the fire box blew me away. I'm thinking its big enough to double as a crematorium during the summer (I'm thinking extra income here). :lol:
The owners manuel is vague in that it mentions to use small diameter wood but the only thing on length was "short" for a small evaporator, "longer" the bigger the machine. I was unable to find an e-mail contact for "maple pro"
My question: Does anyone out there know or had any experience on the length of wood one can use.

Rance Jochimsen
www.onions@tds.net

maple flats
12-19-2010, 03:40 PM
Whatever the fire box length less about 6" is a good rule of thumb. However, my firebox is 29" and I only burn 21", works good too.

Sugarmaker
12-19-2010, 03:45 PM
Welcome to the trader.
Yes at least 6 inches shorter. On our drop flue with 5 foot to the flues we rarley use any thing longer than 2 feet (pallet wood) We could use 3 to 4 feet lengths but we burn what we have and just push it back a little.
Chris

Thad Blaisdell
12-19-2010, 04:06 PM
You can call them at CDL..... 802 527-0000

Squaredeal
12-20-2010, 04:25 PM
Call or email Serge @ CDL in St. Lazare.
He in the one who can answer all questions about the intense-o- fire.
I have one and it has taken me six very frustrating years of asking questions around in CDL to find someone who can answer my questions -he is the one.
I hope that yours came with a thermocouple to gauge firebox temperature -if it didn't ask them to set you up -it is necessary to get anywhere near the performance they claim.
Best way to load it is to have your wood be the length of the grates. However, when you do add wood push what wood remains in the firebox to the rear (behind the grates) before adding more wood. This provides a lot more heat to be maintained in the firebox -especially below the second front pan if your rig is that large.
PM me if you have more questions -I would love to share what I have learned to save you the pain that I have had to go through.

kiegscustoms
12-20-2010, 05:01 PM
I know the guy who designed the arch. He is helping me make one of my own so I will ask him next time I see him. The length of the grates should be safe though.

802maple
12-20-2010, 07:35 PM
So you know me, who is this?
You shouldn't have your wood any longer then the grates as said above and you shouldn't fill the arch anymore then half to 2/3rds full in height. You need to allow area for your over fire air and rear air to combust the extra gases that occur. Also don't pack your firewood to tightly either, so as to allow for good burning of the wood.

kiegscustoms
12-21-2010, 11:11 AM
802- is this Chuck? This is Kienan

802maple
12-21-2010, 01:51 PM
Nope this is Jerry or Beanie to those who know me better. For those who know me,they know the whole story on the design of the arch and enough said.

Dennis H.
12-21-2010, 03:55 PM
Beanie?? :lol::lol:

nymapleguy607
12-23-2010, 02:17 PM
Do any of you know what the differences are between the older style intense-o-fire arches from a couple years ago, and the ones they are calling the next generation? I see the newer ones say you can use them as a gasification system, or forced draft unit and I was curious what the diferences were.
Thanks
Jeff